Spray painting the headliner - Vintage Mustang Forums

Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-08-2011, 08:07 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
NJ STANG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Old Bridge, NJ
Posts: 116
Spray painting the headliner

My headliner looks old and stained. I dont want to replace it because I know its a pain to do. I was going to rattle can it inside the car with SEM paint from NPD.
Should I use SEM paint or something else?
Has anybody done this before?

1966 Coupe
Edelbrock Modified 302
NJ STANG is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-08-2011, 08:44 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Fort Wayne, Indiana
Posts: 56
I was just about to tear my old headliner down when I found out that you have to remove the front and rear glass. I'm not prepared to do this at this point due to time constraints. I plan on using duplicolor's vinyl and fabric paint and I've used it before with good results. I'm switching the headliner color from white to black so I know I'll need at least three coats. First coat should be a light coat followed by a second heavier coat and then maybe a third and final coat. I plan on starting this tonight and should have it done by the weekend. Biggest problems I see are the overspray issues, fortunately my interior is completely gutted at this point which will make things easier. About the only prep I can think of would be to clean the liner first maybe with some bubbing alcohol. PM me for my phone number so I can tell you what I did and what not to do. Mark

Mark 68 Coupe is offline  
post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-08-2011, 09:10 AM
Senior Member
 
bartl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: West Rutland, Vermont, USA
Posts: 26,789
Garage
I've used SEM, DupliColor, and "brand x" or whatever they sell at AutoZone to touch up my headliner, carpet, etc., in the past. I wouldn't try cleaning it, though, for if it is dry rotted at all you'll end up with a tear or hole that will not be repairable.



6F09A 63A 8 26 26D 71 1 5
bartl is offline  
post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-08-2011, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
NJ STANG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Old Bridge, NJ
Posts: 116
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark 68 Coupe View Post
I was just about to tear my old headliner down when I found out that you have to remove the front and rear glass. I'm not prepared to do this at this point due to time constraints. I plan on using duplicolor's vinyl and fabric paint and I've used it before with good results. I'm switching the headliner color from white to black so I know I'll need at least three coats. First coat should be a light coat followed by a second heavier coat and then maybe a third and final coat. I plan on starting this tonight and should have it done by the weekend. Biggest problems I see are the overspray issues, fortunately my interior is completely gutted at this point which will make things easier. About the only prep I can think of would be to clean the liner first maybe with some bubbing alcohol. PM me for my phone number so I can tell you what I did and what not to do. Mark

Im also spaying black, its parchment right now. I changed all the interior over to black. Right now I have the seats and quarter trim panels out. I know I have to cover everything else with plastic and tape because of overspray. I was told by someone to use the SEM paint for the exact match of the color. Is that duplicolor a semi gloss or semi flat? Let me know how yours comes out.

1966 Coupe
Edelbrock Modified 302
NJ STANG is offline  
post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-08-2011, 09:59 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Fort Wayne, Indiana
Posts: 56
I used the Duplicolor black on my kick panels spraying it with five coats. The last coat went on really thick and the final finish is a bit glossy. I'm thinking the headliner's fabric will turn out semi-gloss though. That's true about an old headliner being rotted but I still plan on wiping (lightly) it down with alcohol. From all the other work I've done it's covered with overspray and dust. I'm sure most if not all the fabric and vinyl dyes out there are very similar. I've been told they're pretty much paint with flex agents added but I'm not a paint chemist. I'll try to let you know how it went but I may be busy trying to get her back together for the Mustang show next weekend here locally in Fort Wayne. It's been 31 years since I last owned a Mustang and I don't want to miss the show. Mark

Mark 68 Coupe is offline  
post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-08-2011, 11:11 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Poughkeepsie/Hyde Park New York
Posts: 829
[ I wouldn't try cleaning it, though, for if it is dry rotted at all you'll end up with a tear or hole that will not be repairable.[/QUOTE]

Been there, done that, regret it, ruined the original - from dry rot the seam split.

my 1968 coupe, survivor, 11,900 miles (from Menlo Park CA): --pictures available at http://www.allfordmustangs.com/photopost/showgallery.php/cat/500/ppuser/105333[/url]
Dudley is offline  
post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-08-2011, 01:42 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Pennsauken, NJ 08109
Posts: 766
You'll have to clean it somewhat to get good adhesion. Try the Mister Clean magic eraser. i don't know what's in that thing but it'll clean up just about anything (probably some chemicals that in 20yrs will be "deadly" for human use...).
tweet66 is offline  
post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-08-2011, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
NJ STANG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Old Bridge, NJ
Posts: 116
Im off next week, I think ill give it a go and see what happens. The worse that can happen is it looks like crap and I have to put in a new one (Hopefully not).

1966 Coupe
Edelbrock Modified 302
NJ STANG is offline  
post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-08-2011, 02:39 PM
Senior Member
 
Blues Power's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,966
Garage
I did mine last spring as a refresher coat. I used NPD SEM and the vinyl prep cleaner.
Pay the extra $10.95 (part #C-CV) for this. I had a few rags turn black. after they cleared up i let it dry over night and hit it with 3 light coats of SEM about a 15 mins apart.

i came out great and so far held up.

sure beat the $600 estimate I had at a resto shop plus they wouldnt guarentte that theyd get my windows out in one peice.

Ohhh yeah head over to Lowes for a face mask. dont shoot that crap without it.

1970 Mach 1 San Jose built Dec 23 1969. Marti says 1 of 7. Purchased in 1987. Original family owner of the powertrain 351C 2v FMX.


1993 GT 11,000 miles, Built 2-12-93 Auto, 3:27 Axle, cloth, sunroof. Untouched except for rubber and battery, Purchased new 8-3-93. still has the factory windshield fluid and new car smell.

Last edited by Blues Power; 07-08-2011 at 02:41 PM.
Blues Power is offline  
post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-08-2011, 03:07 PM
Joe
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Imperial Beach, CA
Posts: 1,045
I don't know about on a headliner, but I used the rattlecan Accumatch vinyl dye from NPD on my installed dashpad. It came out far better than I had hoped, and still looks new today.

'65 Coupe, 302, Autolite 4100, C4, 2.80
'72 Grande, 351C, Motorcraft 2100, FMX, 2.75
Joe is offline  
post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-08-2011, 03:44 PM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
NJ STANG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Old Bridge, NJ
Posts: 116
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blues Power View Post
I did mine last spring as a refresher coat. I used NPD SEM and the vinyl prep cleaner.
Pay the extra $10.95 (part #C-CV) for this. I had a few rags turn black. after they cleared up i let it dry over night and hit it with 3 light coats of SEM about a 15 mins apart.

i came out great and so far held up.

sure beat the $600 estimate I had at a resto shop plus they wouldnt guarentte that theyd get my windows out in one peice.

Ohhh yeah head over to Lowes for a face mask. dont shoot that crap without it.
Thats what I wanted to know. I was planning on using SEM, wasnt sure if it would come out good. How many cans did you use?

1966 Coupe
Edelbrock Modified 302
NJ STANG is offline  
post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-11-2011, 08:03 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Fort Wayne, Indiana
Posts: 56
Finished! and she turned out perfect too! I ended up using Duplicolor vinyl and fabric paint two cans total. Here's how I did it: I removed the windlace, domelight, sunvisors and other hardware. I cleaned the old front and rear window gaskets with brake cleaner to bring back their look, over the years the rubber had turned a brownish color. I carefully cleaned the old headliner with rubbing alcohol being careful not to tear the fabric. Then I carefully masked off the window gaskets leaving just a thin edge exposed. By doing this the old liner (white in color) had no chance of being seen after painting (black). I applied a light coat of paint allowing it to tack and the followed with two more heavier coats. I waited until morning to unmask. Only mistake I made was not painting the A pillars first. I ended up having to mask off a small portion on the newly painted headliner and was lucky enough the paint didn't pull off. I did notice that after I installed the new sunvisors the headliner had a bit more gloss to it than the sunvisors but I can live with that. This was a much easier and less expensive option than removing the front and rear glass and installing a new headliner. Mark

Mark 68 Coupe is offline  
post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-11-2011, 08:50 AM
Senior Member
 
Blues Power's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,966
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by NJ STANG View Post
Thats what I wanted to know. I was planning on using SEM, wasnt sure if it would come out good. How many cans did you use?

one can is plenty. you dont wnat to have too much extra weight on there. a few light mist coats will be all youll need.

1970 Mach 1 San Jose built Dec 23 1969. Marti says 1 of 7. Purchased in 1987. Original family owner of the powertrain 351C 2v FMX.


1993 GT 11,000 miles, Built 2-12-93 Auto, 3:27 Axle, cloth, sunroof. Untouched except for rubber and battery, Purchased new 8-3-93. still has the factory windshield fluid and new car smell.
Blues Power is offline  
post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-11-2011, 09:08 AM Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
NJ STANG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Old Bridge, NJ
Posts: 116
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark 68 Coupe View Post
Finished! and she turned out perfect too! I ended up using Duplicolor vinyl and fabric paint two cans total. Here's how I did it: I removed the windlace, domelight, sunvisors and other hardware. I cleaned the old front and rear window gaskets with brake cleaner to bring back their look, over the years the rubber had turned a brownish color. I carefully cleaned the old headliner with rubbing alcohol being careful not to tear the fabric. Then I carefully masked off the window gaskets leaving just a thin edge exposed. By doing this the old liner (white in color) had no chance of being seen after painting (black). I applied a light coat of paint allowing it to tack and the followed with two more heavier coats. I waited until morning to unmask. Only mistake I made was not painting the A pillars first. I ended up having to mask off a small portion on the newly painted headliner and was lucky enough the paint didn't pull off. I did notice that after I installed the new sunvisors the headliner had a bit more gloss to it than the sunvisors but I can live with that. This was a much easier and less expensive option than removing the front and rear glass and installing a new headliner. Mark
Sounds great! I hear you, I def not looking foward to removing glass. Im actually going to do it this afternoon. I have new black sunvisors and brackets. Im using the SEM paint, its supposedly an exact finish match to stock. Ill post some pics when its done.

1966 Coupe
Edelbrock Modified 302
NJ STANG is offline  
post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-11-2011, 09:41 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Fort Wayne, Indiana
Posts: 56
Spend the extra money on a second can. To paint overhead you must tilt the spray can and this may cause the paint to spit when the paint gets low. Switch out to a full can for the final coat. Remember you're going from a white headliner to a black one, you'll need the extra coverage. Plus once the paint has dried it doesn't weigh that much. 90% of the solvent in the paint is lost in the air when spraying otherwise the paint would run and drip. Mark

Mark 68 Coupe is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Vintage Mustang Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome