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Old 08-28-2011, 11:59 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 66FSTBCK View Post
I had posts about what I thought were coils going bad because the car would die after about 5 minutes of running. This turned into having to be towed a couple of times. I would replace the coil and the car would fire right up, but then die. I had an Accel coil and Pertronix I unit. I tested to voltage to the coil and it was barely getting 5-6 volts. I had to create a full 12v source for the pertronix. Took the instrument cluster out and snipped the black/green wire before the pink resistor and ran a new wire from the black/green one through the firewall (already had a grommet to run through) and hooked it directly to the + side of the coil. I am running Autometer gauges in the original cluster and i was feeding those from a source through the "I" side if the starter solenoid (somehow linked into the pink resistor wire) so I had to splice into the new wire I ran and run it to the "I" side of the solenoid to feed my gauges. Little did I know that my gauges were only getting 5-6v. My Fastback has not died one time now that it is receiving a full 12v.
It looks like you were loosing the 6-8 volts.
As you said it would run for a little while, then die. It was running on the 6-8 volts. I suspect that if you had checked the voltage right after it died, you would be at less than 6 volts. You said it had as low as 5 volts.

You fixed the problem by doing away with the faulty circuit.

As I said, it has been 15 years, but I seem to remember my voltage being closer to 8 volts.
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Old 08-28-2011, 12:18 PM   #17 (permalink)
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So to clarify, the wire coming off my coil is red with a green stripe. When I look for that coming through the firewall under the dash should it run all the way to the ignition switch or does it turn into another color? I'm still not clear what color wires I'm looking for.

People keep mentioning pink, does it turn into a pink wire where the resistor is?
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Old 08-28-2011, 12:41 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I have a 65 Fastback and all of the wires are covered.

You should get a wiring diagram. That is how I solved my problem.

I had to replace the harness from the firewall to the distubritor. As I recall I unplugged it and checked the voltages with a meter on each pin coming out of the firewall. The 12 volts was at the connector (firewall), but apparently the wire had a break in it between the Dist and the firewall.

The first thing I did was Hot Wire the car. I don't mean like in the movies where you yank all the wires from under the dash and start making sparks untill it starts.

I mean I ran a wire from the positive post on the battery to the + on the coil, then turned the key to start. This eliminated the 12 volt circuit from the firewall wire and thus allowed it to start.
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Old 08-28-2011, 12:54 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Mike;

I recently installed a Flamethrower III in my 67.
The resistor wire was a problem for me also. At Idle, I had 12V but when you reved the engine, the voltage would drop to 9 volts and the engine would hesitate.

I ended up buying a relay from Advance auto parts and used the old ignition wire to close the relay contacts. I them powered the relay directly off the battery. Now the coil is getting 14V. Works great.

I can post a picture if you like.
Gary
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Old 08-28-2011, 12:58 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Gary,

I was actually thinking about using a relay directly from the battery but I didn't know if the lower voltage wire would trigger the relay correctly. Then I don't have to cut into any of the stock wiring.

Post some pics, I'd like to see how you have it run.

Thanks
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Old 08-28-2011, 01:00 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I know they will run on 12v, but they should run on 6-8volts at the coil.

If it does not have 12v on Start, it will have problems starting. If it is run on constant 12v it will ruin the coil unless you get one with internal resistor.

If you check the wiring diagram, you will see that the start side bypasses the resistor and the run side uses the resistor. Actually I think in the Start Possission the current is allowed to pass through both a straight path and the resistor. The laws of electricity dictate that the current will take the path of least resistance, thus bypassing the in line resistor.

I installed mine over 15 years ago and it is still running the car on about 1/2 of 12 volts and starting it with 12 volts at the coil.
When my car runs the alternator keeps it charged to about 14 volts. I have not checked the volts to the coil, but I am now running an MSD Blaster 2 coil, will more than 12 constant volts to the coil burn it up? I know pertronix makes an inline resistor to keep the volts to the coil at a constant 12v.
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Old 08-28-2011, 01:03 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Also, it looks like I need to buy a coil since I going to run 12 volts.

Which Flamethrower do I want? 1.5 ohm or 3.0 ohm? What is the difference?

40,000 Volt Canister Coils
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Old 08-28-2011, 01:03 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TTA89 View Post
Gary,

I was actually thinking about using a relay directly from the battery but I didn't know if the lower voltage wire would trigger the relay correctly. Then I don't have to cut into any of the stock wiring.

Post some pics, I'd like to see how you have it run.

Thanks
I have used the relay setup on a couple of cars. It works well.
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Old 08-28-2011, 01:04 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I have used the relay setup on a couple of cars. It works well.
Triggering from the "6" volt stock coil wire?
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Old 08-28-2011, 01:22 PM   #25 (permalink)
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It looks like you were loosing the 6-8 volts.
As you said it would run for a little while, then die. It was running on the 6-8 volts. I suspect that if you had checked the voltage right after it died, you would be at less than 6 volts. You said it had as low as 5 volts.

You fixed the problem by doing away with the faulty circuit.

As I said, it has been 15 years, but I seem to remember my voltage being closer to 8 volts.

My way was probably the ugly way to do it, but it fixed the problem. I will probably end up rewiring the car this winter sometime anyway. My one wire alternator keeps the system charged to about 14v. Will this voltage fry my coil?
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Old 08-28-2011, 01:42 PM   #26 (permalink)
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So to clarify, the wire coming off my coil is red with a green stripe. When I look for that coming through the firewall under the dash should it run all the way to the ignition switch or does it turn into another color? I'm still not clear what color wires I'm looking for.

People keep mentioning pink, does it turn into a pink wire where the resistor is?

It turns pink, 60" long, 1.4 ohms resistance. It terminates in a bullet connector a few inches away from ignition switch with a short red green to ignition switch. On the firewall end of the pink wire it's connected to the brown wire running to "I" term of starter relay and the red/green to coil.
You can wire in relays or anything else you wish to complicate matters. I realize working behind the dash is a pain in the butt, I just choose the direct approach personally.
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Old 08-28-2011, 01:45 PM   #27 (permalink)
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You know they say that it is a 12 volt system. The Alt puts out 13-14 volts. The car battery will start the car with as low as about 11 volts. If you are lucky.

I think if the coil has the internal resistor, then you can run "battery" voltage, whatever it maybe. 12 to 14 volts.

If you have 12volts coming from the plug that is attached from the firewall (with the KEY in the START Possision) and not out of the wire at the end of the harness (@distiburor), Change the Harness and use the coil with no resistor. The coil should work with the 8 volts in RUN (key switch)

Looking at Johns Mustang Web site. I think it is the $35 FIREWALL TO ENGINE GAUGE FEED. I Did Not spend $450 to fix this problem.

Call the Supplier you deal with and tell him you need the harness from the Distributer to the firewall.
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Old 08-28-2011, 02:57 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Also, it looks like I need to buy a coil since I going to run 12 volts.

Which Flamethrower do I want? 1.5 ohm or 3.0 ohm? What is the difference?

40,000 Volt Canister Coils
I found the chart, looks like V8 cars want the 1.5 ohm coil.

Flame-Thrower Ignition Coil Application Chart
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Old 08-28-2011, 03:44 PM   #29 (permalink)
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To add another problem in the mix my car has the factory tach and want to keep it that way. On the other hand I wanted to bypass the resistor wire and run the straight 12V to the flame thrower coil and ignitor II. Since the resistor wire runs through the factory I was advised if I run the straight 12V through the tach I would eventually burn it up. I spoke with a tech on the phone from pertronix explained my situation and what he advised me was this. If I wanted to keep the factory tach I should use the 1.5ohm 40,000V coil connected to the factory wiring and for the ignitor II module he suggested running a switched 12V source.
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Old 08-31-2011, 10:13 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Frustration... Grrrrr

I ordered the pertronix relay kit and the flamethrower coil. I wired it all up tonight, relay directly to the battery with a 30amp fuse, triggered by the 6 volt ignition wire that then puts 12 volts to the flamethrower coil and pertronix ignition. There is no magic here...

Twist the key, won't start. Grab the mutlimeter and leave the key on. No voltage at the coil, check the relay and its got voltage. I pull the relay out and put it back in and check to make sure I'm getting 6 volts to the relay from the ignition wire and I am. I check the coil voltage again and its now showing 12 volts. Odd but ok.

Twist the key and it starts right up and idles awesome. I shut it off and start it back up 4-5 times, works great and starts instantly each time.

I shut it off and put the air cleaner back on and start cleaning up to go for a ride. 15 min later I get in the car and it won't start. Grrrr.... I pull the multi meter back out and I have power to the coil, everything is as it should be. I check my connections 1000 times, everything has power but the car won't start.

I pull the dist cap and check the gap, looks good. When it cranks I can hear it wanting to start but just won't "catch" and run. It sounds like the the timing is off I'd guess.

I bypass the relay and all the wiring I did tonight and run the ignitor directly to the battery for 12 volts and wire the stock coil back in with the stock ignition wiring. Still won't start....

I gave up in frustration for the night. The next thing to do is put points back in it and see if the ignitor is junk.

I have no idea what is going on. I'm going to call a friend to come over tomorrow so I can check the voltage while the engine is cranking over and see if its getting power.
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