1968 mustang 6 cylinder carburetor question - Vintage Mustang Forums
Vintage Mustang Forum
HomeForumGalleryClassifiedsAbout UsAdvertiseContact Us
» Auto Insurance
» Featured Product
Go Back   Vintage Mustang Forums > General Discussion > Vintage Mustang Forum
Vintage-Mustang.com is the premier Ford Mustang Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 10-11-2011, 08:43 AM   #1 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 35
Default 1968 mustang 6 cylinder carburetor question

Hello everyone! I need some help. I'm a newbie in this kind of stuff so please bear with me.

I recently got a 1968 mustang 6 cylinder. Everything seems to be ok except for the carburetor, its quite old and I think its better to replace it to avoid headaches, im not considering using a repair kit or sending it for reconditioning. Can someone please help me identify what carburetor do I have? It has a "motorcraft" label on it so I guess thats it.

My question is what is the best replacement carburetor available and where can I buy it from (I prefer online stores)?

I tried researching and read about holley and autolite, but I can't seem to find where can I buy it. Also read about that pony carburetor but it says their 1100 line has been discontinued.

I'd appreciate all the help. Thanks!

PS: I attached some pics

royrois is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 10-11-2011, 09:12 AM   #2 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 35
Default

by the way im going to use the car as a very reliable street motor, I don't need the max power.
royrois is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-11-2011, 09:29 AM   #3 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Explorer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Raphine, VA
Posts: 1,577
Default

Inline 6 carb rebuild?
Thats a Holley 1940 NORS carb made by Holley, branded Motorcraft.
__________________
66 Coupe 200I6 (Rolling Restoration)
66 Bronco Half cab, 203ci I6, CI aluminum head/intake, Isky cam, Keith Black pistons, Holley 390cfm 4V, Clifford header 9.7:1 compression, DSII ignition

Last edited by Explorer; 10-11-2011 at 09:32 AM.
Explorer is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-11-2011, 10:29 AM   #4 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
DkHelmet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 109
Default

I picked up an Autolite 2100 2V from National Carburetor, they're what Autozone resells for a 80% markup. Works fine, looks good... no complaints. It looks like you can get a Carter YF for $140 or so. That could be an option. From the limited amount that I know, the Carter has some benefits over the Autolite 1100. They could be worth a call.

The Pony ones look to be in the $570 range when available... ouch.

edit: max power out of an I6 isn't something that you worry about, honestly. You strive for, work towards, but it doesn't accidentally happen. My 68's original I6 ran for 130k miles and saw me through high school and college, and it wasn't even close to reliable. But when it breaks, it's an easy and cheap fix. I used to drive around with a timing gun, points, a 1/2" box end, and a flat bladed screwdriver in a small bag in the back seat since I was spending so much time opening up the toolbox in the trunk, it would save me the hassle.
__________________
One semi-rusty 68 coupe that I've had since 14 undergoing restoration.
Wish me luck.

Last edited by DkHelmet; 10-11-2011 at 11:04 AM.
DkHelmet is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-11-2011, 12:48 PM   #5 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Explorer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Raphine, VA
Posts: 1,577
Default

You have to be careful replacing carbs for this engine. In 68 they did away with the the SCV carb and the LOM distributor. So an older (67back) Autolite 1100 SCV won't work. The 1101 has different throttle bore. Carter YF, 70-78 really needs switched to a cable throttle linkage for easy install. The Motorcraft 2100 2V will require an adapter plate. Carbs are available on E-Bay, National Carb and parts store, just be aware of the difference between SCV and non-SCV. Good luck.
__________________
66 Coupe 200I6 (Rolling Restoration)
66 Bronco Half cab, 203ci I6, CI aluminum head/intake, Isky cam, Keith Black pistons, Holley 390cfm 4V, Clifford header 9.7:1 compression, DSII ignition
Explorer is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-11-2011, 01:44 PM   #6 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
NEFaurora's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Melbourne, FL
Posts: 4,159
Send a message via AIM to NEFaurora
Default

It looks like you have a replacement Motorcraft carb on your car (as pictured)..They usual run OK when tuned right, but are troublesome. Stay away from the Carter YF.. It came out in late '68 on some cars and uses a different mount anyway. The Carter YF is also alot of problems.. I've run a few of them.

If you want a really good running car, You need to pickup a '65-'67 (Non-IMCO) Autolite 1100 1v carb, and a 1965-1967 Non-IMCO distributor. Your car originally came with a Autolite 1100 1V IMCO carb, and a Aurolite IMCO 6cyl distributor. You may have to hunt around for a '65-'66 Autolite 1100 1v carb, (Try Ebay), Pony Carb charges a bundle..Try here on VMF too. Also, For the Non-IMCO distributor, You can get one cheap from www.rockauto under the "Cardone" brand. They are excellent. Run about $40-$60 bucks! Just remember, Anything IMCO related sucks for your car, so you have to eliminate it starting with the carb and the disty. Heed my words, and you'll been burning rubber in no time flat.
__________________


Tony Kovar
Melbourne, FL (Formerly from Long Island, NY!)

1965 Mustang Convertible 200cid I6, 3spd Manual
1966 Mustang Sprint 200 Registry Owner/Moderator
1966 Mustang Sprint 200 Convertible 200cid I6, C4 Auto
2007 Mustang V6 Convertible w/ Pony Package
MCA#70001
NEFaurora is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-11-2011, 05:26 PM   #7 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Frank-n-stang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Grand Prairie, TX
Posts: 195
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by NEFaurora View Post
If you want a really good running car, You need to pickup a '65-'67 (Non-IMCO) Autolite 1100 1v carb, and a 1965-1967 Non-IMCO distributor. Your car originally came with a Autolite 1100 1V IMCO carb, and a Aurolite IMCO 6cyl distributor.


OP has a '68 if I'm following correctly. IMCO for Ford was like Thermactor an effort to improve emissions.

You DO NOT want to switch back to a pre '68 carb (no offense to NEFaurora). They are SCV carbs as Explorer explained. That is they have a 'Spark Control Valve' which is intended to work in specific combination with a 'Load-o-matic' distributor (which you wouldn't have in '68). Again do not use a '65-67 1100 unless you plan on reverting to a 'load-o-matic' system (which had its benefits...but most would not choose this combination if they did not have to).

The big difference in '68 and later I6's is they are ‘non-load-o-matic’ distributors. '68 had a 'dual vacuum' distributor, which I believe was part of the IMCO or Thermactor system as NEFaurora notes...see these vacuum diagrams...particularly '68

Mustang Vacuum Diagrams, Shelby Vacuum Diagrams

EDIT: Thanks to 22GT I've only recently learned of Glazier/Nolan and the Mustang Barn, but have searched unsuccessfully many times before for these vacuum diagrams.

If not needed for emission testing in your state (i.e. OEM equip must be in place on '68 models for some states...I think this is Cali mainly, but not sure) then many choose to delete the vacuum retarding function of the '68 distributor (i.e. they cap the hose on the back side of the vacuum canister that retards spark advance...to improve performance...as opposed to the hose at the front of the canister that advances spark).

Without getting into good carbs vs. bad carbs too much, there are fans of the Holley 1940 that you have and fans of the Carter YF along with fans of the 1100, the Carter RBS, Weber 2 bbl’s etc, etc. You might do some searching on Fordsix.com/forum as there was a good thread there regarding best 1 barrel carbs. Personally I would stay away from 'mass' rebuilders like Cardone, Fenco, Champion, etc. That is not only personal preference, but comes from years of experience in receiving items that 'will work', but are not rebuilt to factory standards (i.e. many rebuilders get their rebuilt carbs to run at a bench idle of 1000rpms and ship them out) However that is above the idle circuit and when folks try to tune them to work at factory 600rpm the trouble begins (they start to realize transition circuits, accel pumps, power valves, etc. have not been rebuilt and/or calibrated correctly). End of my $.02
__________________
'66 Coupe, 200cid, T-5, Vaporizer 1100, Mallory Unilite w/Hyfire VIA, Scarebird Disc Brakes, Comet 8" 4-lug Rearend, Vintage Appliance Wire Mags
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k.../th_sigpic.jpg
6cyl Tranny & T-5 Swap Info

Last edited by Frank-n-stang; 10-11-2011 at 05:37 PM.
Frank-n-stang is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-11-2011, 07:12 PM   #8 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Frank-n-stang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Grand Prairie, TX
Posts: 195
Default

As I think was mentioned, your current carb is a Holley 1940 which never came stock on the Ford six cylinder, but rather is a service replacement. Your stock carb would have been an Autolite 1100 "Non-SCV" on a '68 Mustang with 200ci.
Carburetor, Carburetors, Carbs, Carb Parts. Pony Carburetors - Your Ford Carburetor Restoration and Part Sales Specialist

Oh, and to your original question...there are some restoration services out there, Pony Carburetors is one (don't know if they restore the Holley 1940 or not) and in fact I think there is a member here who use to work for them 'carbontooters' IIRC, who also does restorations...might check with them. You can find some "NOS" carbs on ebay, but as always "buyer beware" (there are multiple differences in 1100's...SCV and non-SCV is one, dual dashpots is another which is a slight misnomer, as one is a accel pump and other is an anti-stall for automatics trans...there are also 1101's....all look really similar) some are just NOS rebuilds, some done by ford, some by 'mass' rebuilders...some true never rebuilt NOS's

There was a company here in Texas that specialized in reasonably priced restorations, but can't seem to find them now....if I come across it I'll edit.

Loooong story shorter you may want to do some more research before you choose which direction to go, or you could be rolling the dice more than you realize :wink:
__________________
'66 Coupe, 200cid, T-5, Vaporizer 1100, Mallory Unilite w/Hyfire VIA, Scarebird Disc Brakes, Comet 8" 4-lug Rearend, Vintage Appliance Wire Mags
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k.../th_sigpic.jpg
6cyl Tranny & T-5 Swap Info
Frank-n-stang is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-12-2011, 01:28 PM   #9 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
NEFaurora's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Melbourne, FL
Posts: 4,159
Send a message via AIM to NEFaurora
Default

I refer to my original statement- IMCO is junk.

Switch to the earlier 1100 1V and earlier distributor...

You can waste money trying to track down IMCO carb parts only to find out that the IMCO stuff runs like crap. Cut out the IMCO, and you cut out the crap..

The IMCO V8 stuff seems to run a bit better than the IMCO 6cyl stuff..but not much.

Live and learn..
__________________


Tony Kovar
Melbourne, FL (Formerly from Long Island, NY!)

1965 Mustang Convertible 200cid I6, 3spd Manual
1966 Mustang Sprint 200 Registry Owner/Moderator
1966 Mustang Sprint 200 Convertible 200cid I6, C4 Auto
2007 Mustang V6 Convertible w/ Pony Package
MCA#70001
NEFaurora is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-12-2011, 02:17 PM   #10 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Frank-n-stang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Grand Prairie, TX
Posts: 195
Default

There is no such thing as an IMCO or NON-IMCO carburetor on the '68 Mustang with a 6cyl. The '68 Autolite 1100 carburetor provides a single 'ported' vacuum source to the '68 distributor.

There is such a thing as SCV and NON-SCV carburetor. SCV carburetors provide a vacuum source (controlled by the SCV) specifically to a load-o-matic that uses as combination of manifold and venturi vacuum to create the proper spark advance signal to a "load-o-matic" distributor (which has no mechanical advance).

The '68 1100 is a NON-SCV carburetor. The '68 distributor has a vacuum retard function. If you have trouble with the vacuum retard function you can cap the vac connection closest to the cap on the distributor and cap the line feeding it back at the control valve coming off the 'manifold' (see diagram above).

The '68 distributor requires a 'ported' vacuum source and will not work with an SCV controlled vacuum source. The '68 distributor has mechanical advance where the 'load-o-matic' does not.

The OP is looking for a new or rebuilt carburetor, did not mention looking to change distributors, and I would not recommend reverting to the older technology.

The NON-SCV carburetor will provide the proper ported vacuum source for the '68 distributor and performance can be enhanced (excluding emissions issues) by capping the spark retard function.

The '68 NON-SCV carburetor will also provide the proper 'ported' vacuum source for a number of aftermarket distributors (e.g. Mallory, DUI, etc.) as well as the proper 'ported' vacuum advance for a Duraspark I or Duraspark II distributor.

Again, there is no such thing as an IMCO or NON-IMCO carburetor, there is such a thing as IMCO specific parts, exhaust (in this case it's actually non-thermactor specific), manifold valve, etc, but they will not have anything to do with the carb you choose. Good luck!

EDIT: Just to be clear I am neither supporting nor detracting the merits of the 'IMCO' (Improved Combustion) technology. Merely noting that the carburetor selection on the '68 with 6cyl has no bearing on that system beyond some minor calibration settings.
__________________
'66 Coupe, 200cid, T-5, Vaporizer 1100, Mallory Unilite w/Hyfire VIA, Scarebird Disc Brakes, Comet 8" 4-lug Rearend, Vintage Appliance Wire Mags
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k.../th_sigpic.jpg
6cyl Tranny & T-5 Swap Info

Last edited by Frank-n-stang; 10-12-2011 at 03:59 PM.
Frank-n-stang is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-12-2011, 06:24 PM   #11 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
NEFaurora's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Melbourne, FL
Posts: 4,159
Send a message via AIM to NEFaurora
Default

"There is no such thing as an IMCO or NON-IMCO carburetor on the '68 Mustang with a 6cyl."

No kidding.

An earlier 1966 Autolite 1100 1v carb and distributor is NON-IMCO.

A '68-'69 later Autolite 1100 1 carb is an IMCO carb.

What I am saying here is to get rid of what was originally there, and replace it with an earlier year 1966 type Carb and 1966 type Distributor setup...and the car will run a million times better. Anyone who has ever dealt with both know that the IMCO stuff is usable, but has many problems when compared to the earlier carbs and distributors, not to mention lack of power and the old famous "flat spots" and "Cold Start-up" issues which plague the IMCO 6cyl carbs like fleas to a dog.

What part of this do you not get?

"and I would not recommend reverting to the older technology."

That is soley YOUR opinion...and you are entiled to it.

Let everyone draw their own conclusions.
__________________


Tony Kovar
Melbourne, FL (Formerly from Long Island, NY!)

1965 Mustang Convertible 200cid I6, 3spd Manual
1966 Mustang Sprint 200 Registry Owner/Moderator
1966 Mustang Sprint 200 Convertible 200cid I6, C4 Auto
2007 Mustang V6 Convertible w/ Pony Package
MCA#70001
NEFaurora is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-12-2011, 07:23 PM   #12 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Frank-n-stang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Grand Prairie, TX
Posts: 195
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by NEFaurora View Post
"There is no such thing as an IMCO or NON-IMCO carburetor on the '68 Mustang with a 6cyl."

No kidding.

An earlier 1966 Autolite 1100 1v carb and distributor is NON-IMCO.

A '68-'69 later Autolite 1100 1 carb is an IMCO carb.


....What part of this do you not get?
The part I don't get is where being testy enhances the logic of your argument, or contributes anything to the discussion

oh well...

By that definition a flathead stromberg is NON-IMCO as is a brand new Holley 600 CFM...in that case the list of the NON-IMCO carburetors is endless.

Apart from this back and forth the 'facts' remain that the 'mechanically same' YF Carter was used on IMCO as it was on Thermactor (the two choices for emissions standards for all Ford cars at the time, with the possible exception of Cali cars).

The Facts as I understand them, from both research and experience:
The 'only' difference in the YF or Autolite 1100 (less SCV) with IMCO would have been plastic (removable) limiter caps on the mixture screws...'removable' (most of which have not survived to date)...the 'only' other difference was in 'calibration' (adjustable).

There is no other mechanical difference between the Carter YF or '68 Autolite 1100 for Thermactor vs. IMCO (the only two factory choices one would have on the OP's car).

There are no vacuum connections on the 'carb' that operate the 'spark retard system' which is the crux of the IMCO ignition design.

The true 'improvements in combustion' were not exclusive to IMCO, that is the head castings were not different on IMCO vs. Thermactor...the exhausts were as I have noted.

The IMCO ignition system is primarily based on the 'spark retard' distributor cannister, which as I have noted can be negated by plugging the vacuum connections noted above. At that point the '68 distributor is comparable to a standard vacuum/mechanical advance dizzy.

The other parts of IMCO which included 'slightly' different carb calibration 'from Thermactor', a hotter thermostat, etc. are all essentially efficiency improvements not specific to the 'spark retard' ignition system of IMCO.

There is far too much evidence out there by people who have these carbs, both the 'NON-SCV' Autolite 1100 and the Carter YF, for anyone to simply dismiss them as 'junk' (in particular the Carter YF). That is a minority opinion and you are welcome to it, but to throw 'the baby out with the bath water' is just that.

If you were unsuccessful at getting the IMCO system to peform well, I would not be surprised (Ford had relatively the same lack of success). It was a relatively short lived 'system' (especially in terms of ignition) that gave way to the characteristics of Thermactor (air/smog pump) and later EGR. Again, I've given a very simple method that most use to by pass the IMCO 'spark retard' system. If you were not able to get the Carter YF to peform very well...that is another story, isn't it? However to dismiss the YF out of hand and portray it as an IMCO 'specific carb' is a misrepresentation, not just a matter of opinion.

Though I may not have been on this forum long...I am no newbie to these engines or these emission systems
__________________
'66 Coupe, 200cid, T-5, Vaporizer 1100, Mallory Unilite w/Hyfire VIA, Scarebird Disc Brakes, Comet 8" 4-lug Rearend, Vintage Appliance Wire Mags
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k.../th_sigpic.jpg
6cyl Tranny & T-5 Swap Info
Frank-n-stang is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-13-2011, 07:43 PM   #13 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
NEFaurora's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Melbourne, FL
Posts: 4,159
Send a message via AIM to NEFaurora
Default

All of my '68 to '69 IMCO Autolite 1100 1V carbs and '70 Carter YF carbs were very tempermental...Would run ok for a few months after rebuilds, then totally start pooping out. All of my '65-'66 Autolite 1100 1V's never had any problems...especially in cold weather.. They are just better carbs. Period. That IMCO stuff is horrible in colder weather, and have really bad flat spots. Never experienced that with the earlier carbs or disty's. I believe that the IMCO distributor plays a big part in it too.
__________________


Tony Kovar
Melbourne, FL (Formerly from Long Island, NY!)

1965 Mustang Convertible 200cid I6, 3spd Manual
1966 Mustang Sprint 200 Registry Owner/Moderator
1966 Mustang Sprint 200 Convertible 200cid I6, C4 Auto
2007 Mustang V6 Convertible w/ Pony Package
MCA#70001
NEFaurora is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-14-2011, 08:48 AM   #14 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Frank-n-stang's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Grand Prairie, TX
Posts: 195
Default

'In general', I think we've got more agreement than disagreement here. Mainly because I for one would never disparage the '67 and earlier 'load-o-matic and scv' combo as no good. While many folks on six cylinder, Falcon/Ranchero, and Comet forums would actually recommend the opposite, saying one needs to ditch the 'load-o & scv' (ironically because of flat spots & bog...poor performance), and switch to a '68 dizzy and non-scv carb. I on the other hand think the 'load-o/scv' combo can be one of the most, if not 'the' most economical setups on the six cylinder.

The 'load sensing' ability of that setup with a properly operating 'scv(spark control valve) has a great ability to drop out unecessary extra advance at the eariliest advantageous condition while operating at higher rpms after hard acceleration. In that way, the pre '67 load-o/scv combos can put up very impressive MPG numbers and with a pertronix unit and well tuned properly matching scv carb, 'performance' can be quite good.

In part that's why I personally opted for a '66 version of the Pony Vaporizer with an 'scv' when I decided to plunk down that kind of cash. Eventhough I'm running a Mallory Unilite with full mechanical advance and the 'scv' port on the 1100 capped (again a personal preference for reasons I won't go further into here other than to say...great dizzy with spot on advance curve out of the box). Actually, if I were to change ignitions it would likely be 'back' to a load-o with pertronix for pure efficiency gains (one of my main obcessions these days).

So I'm not really a big fan of the '68 dizzy with the 'work around' of disabling the spark retard. If I was going to move to a later model dizzy with a post '67-68 carb I personally would opt for Duraspark I or II. I will say I've had goodluck with the Carter YF, in particular on the bigger sixes 250, etc. and truck setups, as well as on other non-ford vehicles (jeeps for example).

One of the other reasons the '68 1100 or Carter YF are popular for later 200 heads is because the throttle bore changed to a larger opening (closer to 1.75" than 1.5"), and then if you decide to take advantage of the larger 'integral log manifold' volumes of the '78 and later head (that require shaving to acheive '60's era compression ratios)...that bigger throttle bore and cfm of the post '68 1100 and Carter YF start to really payoff.

The '68+ (cause I think the throttle bore actually changes in '69) will flow more volume and create more power. That's more performance minded than economy minded of course. There is a great book called the "Ford Falcon Six Cylinder Performance Handbook' that goes into much greater detail re: the various 200ci itterations by Ford through the years..e.g. this page from classic inlines highlights some of the cfm, volume and compression changes on the six Classic Inlines - Ford Small Inline Six Specs )

My preference for 'period correct' setups is totally a matter of opinion. Other vehicles may come and go, but because of the 'family' history behind my 6cyl stang, I seriously doubt I'll ever sell it, and yet have still made mods with a mind for something that could be reverted to stock without too much hassle...again personal preference in the approach.
So now that I've written another epic length post tangenting off the OP's subject...I will agree that there is a good deal of personal preference involved, and consideration should definitely be given to long term goals for any 6cyl setup.
__________________
'66 Coupe, 200cid, T-5, Vaporizer 1100, Mallory Unilite w/Hyfire VIA, Scarebird Disc Brakes, Comet 8" 4-lug Rearend, Vintage Appliance Wire Mags
http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/k.../th_sigpic.jpg
6cyl Tranny & T-5 Swap Info

Last edited by Frank-n-stang; 10-14-2011 at 08:55 AM.
Frank-n-stang is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-14-2011, 10:14 AM   #15 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 35
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank-n-stang View Post
If not needed for emission testing in your state (i.e. OEM equip must be in place on '68 models for some states...I think this is Cali mainly, but not sure) then many choose to delete the vacuum retarding function of the '68 distributor (i.e. they cap the hose on the back side of the vacuum canister that retards spark advance...to improve performance...as opposed to the hose at the front of the canister that advances spark).
thanks for all your suggestions. i've learned a lot. i'll try to use a holley 1940 repair kit first.

about deleting the vacuum, i'm a bit confused with the diagram. which one should I cap? the one labeled green stripe?
royrois is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Vintage Mustang Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:56 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.3.2 ©2009, Crawlability, Inc.