I've got the Ivy gold interior on my 67. Since I had the steering column out I figure this would be a good time to repaint it. I did a little reading on the paints available to do this and it seems that some prefer just run of the mill spray paint because it applies easier. Krylon has an Ivy Leaf color that looks pretty close to my interior. Krylon: Products: Indoor/Outdoor Paint
EDIT: Sorry, long reply but this subject is of interest to me as well.
I used "AccuMatch" brand of paint I purchased from Dallas Mustang Parts (CJ's also use to carry it, but then I think they switched...not sure). Not sure if this is the same as NPD brand and it does claim to be a 'laquer'.
I've done a fair amount of painting commerically (but never really on cars), so I'm not sure if you can make a 'true laquer' in a rattle can version...maybe some paint & body experts know??
However, I am happy with the quality of this paint, compared to other rattle can flavors like krylon and rustoleum...I would say this brand was superior, but like with any 'paint' job...results are very dependent on prep. I'd be sure to either use some type of etching chemical like a phosphoric acid (although careful of residue that can effect the finish) or when possible sanding thoroughly, but leaving some portion of factory paint remaining in place can also promote adhesion...good ahesion being the biggest battle I've encountered with all painting (i.e. always paint when humidity is low..never over 50, and when ambient and material temps are above ~75, clean surfaces, etc. all promote bonding). Most of my factory interior paint seemed well adhered (severely faded and/or stained but not chipped), so going over it after sanding to a fresh substrate was almost like using a primer to my thinking (although as I understand it, the interiors were painted without primer...hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong here).
Anyway one of the reasons I joined this forum is to learn more about the interior/paint/body work side of restoration, but at the risk of displaying my 'amateurish' work to this point on my 'driver' quality restoration...I was pleased with the results of the above product...
No thread hijack intended...however I too am interested if there are even better ways to acheive good and especially 'durable' outcomes with rattle can paints, particularly before I tackle the refurb of my doors. Good luck with your paint project...I'm sure as with any paint job, durability will obviously depend on how it looks in a few years.
Anything will work but enamel (like Rustoleum) is much more scratch resistant than lacquer.
1967 Shelby GT350, dark green, 347 stroker, 5-speed, inboards, #2206
1973 Mustang Convertible, white/white, black stripes, Q-code (351C-4V), ram air.
1968 1/2 428 CJ convertible, R-code, red/deluxe red, auto, finally finished.
"If you find the car of your dreams, ignore the price guides and pay whatever you have to in order to get it."
I'm sure store-bought paints such as Krylon are cheaper, and can produce good results. I've never heard that they're tougher, though.
They're heavier-bodied and take fewer coats for coverage, but because of that they're rougher at the edges and make it harder to cover larger surfaces smoothly.
I prefer the "lacquers" sold by NPD. I did my entire interior with them and love how they lay down. The coverage isn't as good, so it takes more coats. But it seems easier to get a good result with them.
Plus, on the textured surfaces like the doors, the thinner coat you can manage, the better the texture appears.
I don't know how the factory got their paint to stick, but I have never found primer under interior paint. And it's adhered extremely well. Maybe that's a characteristic of lacquer, dunno. Back in the day, there was "lacquer primer".
On my job, I used rattle-can etching primer (TEC at NAPA). One light coat did a great job.
Formerly known as Bashed68.
Resto-modded '68 convertible.
When new, the early Mustang interiors were lacquered. One thing about lacquer, you need to use a correct, compatible primer. Light gray is the best as it does not throw off the shade of finish. I like Sem gray self-etch primer as it is lacquer base.
Found that NPD's color match was accurate.
RE Krylon, the stand-by semi-flat 1613 was changed by co. and it is now enamel based and some say that it takes a while to dry and has more gloss.
NPD...aware of 1613 and it's popularity, now sells a black semi-gloss.... AP_ECBK "custom-mixed to match the highly regarded original mix of Krylon 1613"
Original factory interiors were lacquer. Exteriors were synthetic enamel, force cured in infrared tunnels on the body line. I have used PPG lacquer of the correct color for the interior, either in rattle cans or sprayed with a "touch-up" gun.
Also have used Krylon on various projects for over 50 years and find it to be great stuff. If you can get the correct color, either should come out well.
SWMBO's '66 Coupe 289, 2-V, C-4(Pony Interior, Rally Pac, A/C & Tiffany Stripe) & An absolutely rust free '65 289-2V C-4 coupe project now UPGRADED to about 99.78%. Now only a few more days. Well, since the fuel fire, add about another month to that. SWMBO says it failed the "Smoke Test". Only took 13+ years.
Nice!! Looks like something you buy out of a shop. Almost looks powder coated. I was going to go that route but since my POS shaft stud is stripped and I can't put an aftermarket wheel on, I decided to buy a chrome tilt column. Looks good though Emile.
2004 Nissan Titan Crew Cab
1966 Ford Mustang Original 289
Edelbrock RPM Performer Heads; bored .30 over
Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 600 CFM Carb.
Comp Cam 268H 9.5:1 Speed Pro Pistons
Patriot Tri-Y Headers w/ 2.5" H Pipe, Flowmaster 40S
Ride tech air ride with 4 link
Global West Tubular Arms and Adjustable Struts
CSRP Front Disk Brakes.
Ford 8 3.40 trac-loc rear end
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