Dumb question, but where would you check the fluid in the rear axle?
Big plug on the back of the housing (original housing) or in later years on the driver's side of the chunk, just above the level of the pinion. Fluid level should be just at the bottom of the hole.
Quote:
Thanks Bart. I am planning on replacing the strut rod brackets sometime soon, so may wait to replace the bushings at that point. Are those easy to replace, by the way?
IMHO they are a bitch as they are attached with a considerable weld. I would cut them off with a torch or plasma cutter and grind the remainder of the old weld & bracket, then attach the new ones.
IIRC, the OEM Owner's Manual has a pretty good description of lube points and which lubes should be used, toward the back of the book.
In all, just be careful. My '66 went on jack stands in the rear only in 2007 and has been there ever since. :-)
__________________
5F07C 65A R 26 11T 64 6 1
Recently "rescued" from the original owner after 23
years of sitting.
6F09A 63A 8 26 26D 71 1 5
A work in progress. Hopefully done next year.
Answer: Watch the list grow...
Check your rear quarter panel drain ports. They are in the trunk drop off panels and are almost always plugged. Also check the condition of the leaf spring bushings.
You are talking about the holes on the top of both the left and right trunk floor, right?
Also, If the leaf spring bushings are bad (and I am going out on a limb and say they are) do I replace the bushings, or the entire leaf spring(s)
__________________
Steven Hickory, NC
1966 200ci
"Shug"
cowl off tetanus shot updated
Have the battery box tacked on
Up next:
cowl, firewall, fender aprons, trunk floor, taillight panel
floor pans, put wiring harnesses back in,
put the front clip back together, rebuild front suspension
No. These: QUARTER PANEL DRAIN PLUG 1964-1966 | CJ Pony Parts
They are in the vertical part of the trunk drop offs.
If your springs are not sagging, then you can just replace the bushings. If you plan on changing the leafs to change the stance or correct a sag issue, then I would wait unless there are chunks missing.
__________________
Formerly of the Permanently Addicted...
Let it be known that I do not street race or condone that sort of thing
- unless the 'b@stard deserves it.
Someone takes his pants off and the rafters knock
Rock is dead they say
Long Live Rock!
67 conv. 289 4spd(mine), 67 coupe 289 Export(swmbo's)
No. These: QUARTER PANEL DRAIN PLUG 1964-1966 | CJ Pony Parts
They are in the vertical part of the trunk drop offs.
If your springs are not sagging, then you can just replace the bushings. If you plan on changing the leafs to change the stance or correct a sag issue, then I would wait unless there are chunks missing.
__________________
Steven Hickory, NC
1966 200ci
"Shug"
cowl off tetanus shot updated
Have the battery box tacked on
Up next:
cowl, firewall, fender aprons, trunk floor, taillight panel
floor pans, put wiring harnesses back in,
put the front clip back together, rebuild front suspension
Big plug on the back of the housing (original housing) or in later years on the driver's side of the chunk, just above the level of the pinion. Fluid level should be just at the bottom of the hole.
IMHO they are a bitch as they are attached with a considerable weld. I would cut them off with a torch or plasma cutter and grind the remainder of the old weld & bracket, then attach the new ones.
IIRC, the OEM Owner's Manual has a pretty good description of lube points and which lubes should be used, toward the back of the book.
In all, just be careful. My '66 went on jack stands in the rear only in 2007 and has been there ever since. :-)
And as for the strut rod bushings, I will reevaluate the strut rod brackets to make sure they are stable. IF so, how much of a pain in the arse is it to replace the strut rod bushings and should I replace the strut rods as well? Should I avoid the polyurethane bushings?
__________________
Steven Hickory, NC
1966 200ci
"Shug"
cowl off tetanus shot updated
Have the battery box tacked on
Up next:
cowl, firewall, fender aprons, trunk floor, taillight panel
floor pans, put wiring harnesses back in,
put the front clip back together, rebuild front suspension
The rear end plug should look like the end of a 3/8 socket (like a square hole) that will fit the ed of a ratchet. Fill till it runs out. (beware 90 weight oil smells horrible and you will smell this for a long time if you get it in your hair). Hey war I think I got a set of new rubber front end bushings if you want it. I think they're rubber not the poly but I got it in a sway bar package after rebuilding the front end.
The rear end plug should look like the end of a 3/8 socket (like a square hole) that will fit the ed of a ratchet. Fill till it runs out. (beware 90 weight oil smells horrible and you will smell this for a long time if you get it in your hair). Hey war I think I got a set of new rubber front end bushings if you want it. I think they're rubber not the poly but I got it in a sway bar package after rebuilding the front end.
Reckon I should just replace the bushings, or both the bushings and the strut rods?
I have always called that basketball looking thing on the rear axel a differential. Have I always been wrong
__________________
Steven Hickory, NC
1966 200ci
"Shug"
cowl off tetanus shot updated
Have the battery box tacked on
Up next:
cowl, firewall, fender aprons, trunk floor, taillight panel
floor pans, put wiring harnesses back in,
put the front clip back together, rebuild front suspension
I would also make sure your gas gauge works. if not replace or repair the fuel level sending unit, and even if it is ok, if this car is new to you replace the small rubber hose that goes between the sender and the steel fuel line. in fact if there are any other rubber hoses in the fuel line replace them too. the fuel we have nowadays tends to degrade those hoses over time, and it is a cheap and easy way to improve safety and reliability.
Yep round here (nc) its a pumpkin, or 3rd member. If you pull the fuel sending unit make sure you are very low on fuel. Drain or run it out of gas if possible. Watch your trouble light too, cold fuel will bust a light bulb and u know what is gonna happen next. I reused my strut rods with new bushings. I can't recall if my set has them in it but I am pretty sure it does. It has the little shock rubbers, and all the little assorted rubbers you find in and around the front end. I ended up with extra, so I can spare it. Check universal joints while under there too. If ya need to borrow a creeper, I got one I rarely use. I might be coming to Hickory sometime Sat so let me know tonight or tomorrow MORNING, and I can meet u.
Grease all the all the fittings including the u-joints. Check the rear axle vent tube. If the u-joints are old, you may consider changing them. If auto tranny, change the fluid and filter. If manual, check the fluid level and fill as necessary, or drain and replace. Check for leaks in the rear seal of the tranny.
Dave
__________________
68 GT Vert - J Code (1st car I ever drove in '73, dad bought it in '71)
67 C Code Vert Sports Sprint (1st car I ever bought in '75)
06 Vista Blue with Pony Package (1st Mustang I ever bought new)
MCA #49294 Grayson, GA (Atlanta)
And as for the strut rod bushings, I will reevaluate the strut rod brackets to make sure they are stable. IF so, how much of a pain in the arse is it to replace the strut rod bushings and should I replace the strut rods as well? Should I avoid the polyurethane bushings?
Damn, I forgot you had a six-banger with the integral carrier. If your differential cover has a plug then check there. If not, check around the housing in front of the axles for a 1/2" pipe plug with a square recess.
As far as the strut rods are concerned, if the are bent or look like they have ever been bent and straightened, replace them. I would avoid the polyurethane bushings like the plague. The rods need to give a little bit to avoid cracking from the stress of being bent from side to side.
__________________
5F07C 65A R 26 11T 64 6 1
Recently "rescued" from the original owner after 23
years of sitting.
6F09A 63A 8 26 26D 71 1 5
A work in progress. Hopefully done next year.
Answer: Watch the list grow...
Check your rear quarter panel drain ports. They are in the trunk drop off panels and are almost always plugged. Also check the condition of the leaf spring bushings.
And if they rust out, they turn into mouse holes. NOT fun
__________________
67 Mustang fastback 289/T-5, which was converted from 68 Coupe with 6 cylinder/auto
57 Ford Fairlane 500
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
