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Old 02-10-2012, 11:45 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajzride View Post
There return line should not be pressurized. Go pick up a rubber hose from auto zone and clamp it on, have someone else start the car while you watch the hose. Yell STOP STOP STOP if the hose blows off.
Remove your return line from the pump reservoir, put your finger over the end of the line, have someone crank up the car and turn the wheel. Then, come back and tell us there is no pressure in the line.
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Old 02-10-2012, 11:46 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Apparantly Dan like many of us is not perfect.
Speak for yourself...
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Old 02-10-2012, 11:55 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Kelly, if you can get new sleeves to re-crimp replacement hose to your existing end, then you can probably find hose at any decent hydraulic hose place, like a John Deere, Cat, etc. place. The I.D. of the hose will be a standard size to fit the nipple on your pump reservoir.
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Old 02-11-2012, 08:26 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bartl View Post
Kelly, if you can get new sleeves to re-crimp replacement hose to your existing end, then you can probably find hose at any decent hydraulic hose place, like a John Deere, Cat, etc. place. The I.D. of the hose will be a standard size to fit the nipple on your pump reservoir.
Even many NAPA stores will fabricate hoses.
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Old 02-11-2012, 08:53 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Glad that amused you Dan

In fact, the reason I switched to the Unisteer system had to do directly with the things you stated above.
1) The factory system requires a very strong knowledge in order to keep it properly maintained and leak-free, and when it does leak it is very expensive to fix (depending on what's leaking, I guess). I have neither strong knowledge of 45 year old power steering systems nor a bottomless pocket, so the $1200 rack and pinion that can be easily replaced with auto store parts in an emergency seemed like a better option. I can appreciate the merits in a stock setup, but that is not the route I wanted to go with a daily driven car.
I disagree. Keeping the factory Ford/Bendix system working well requires only proper (not cheap generic) hoses, the clamp around the valve that's always left off, and a correct un-bent hose bracket. All of this is described in detail in the Ford Shop Manual.

Replacing the entire system (as in converting from manual to power) costs less than the Unisteer conversion system. It is rarely necessary to replace anywhere near that much of the factory system.

Of course in your case you were working with odd things done by prior owners, I recall talking to you about your pulley problems.
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Old 02-11-2012, 09:30 AM   #21 (permalink)
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I think if I were chasing a leak like this I would be more inclined to determine exactly where the leak was coming from first before doing anything. As big a puddle as you describe should be a pretty apparent leak.

A solvent sprayer and some rags should do it. Wipe it all down and remove all fluid indications. An inspection mirror and flashlight should help you detect the problem quickly.
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Old 02-11-2012, 01:00 PM   #22 (permalink)
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I disagree. Keeping the factory Ford/Bendix system working well requires only proper (not cheap generic) hoses, the clamp around the valve that's always left off, and a correct un-bent hose bracket. All of this is described in detail in the Ford Shop Manual.

Replacing the entire system (as in converting from manual to power) costs less than the Unisteer conversion system. It is rarely necessary to replace anywhere near that much of the factory system.

Of course in your case you were working with odd things done by prior owners, I recall talking to you about your pulley problems.
Kelly, I hope you get this all figured out.

I did, however want to state for others considering a PS update that since 1998 when I put my used stock power steering system in, it has worked perfectly through countless hundreds of autocrosses and dozens of track daze on road-race rubber much of the time with 225 width tires . It also is driven on the street a good portion of every summer including to and from each event (knock on wood).

Please do not believe that the stock power steering systems are bad by design. They do get old but there is a huge body of knowledge around these systems - and they can take a pounding VERY Reliably A happy camper - so far...

M

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Old 02-11-2012, 01:54 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I don't understand the point of many posts in this thread.

The OP is asking what to do with her current power steering set up, not whether it was a good idea to use the system she has.

Anyway, a return line should have very little pressure. I agree that I'd clean up the system, run it while watching to see where the leak is.
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Old 02-11-2012, 02:04 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I don't understand the point of many posts in this thread.

The OP is asking what to do with her current power steering set up, not whether it was a good idea to use the system she has.

Anyway, a return line should have very little pressure. I agree that I'd clean up the system, run it while watching to see where the leak is.
The OP herself brought up the issue of reliability.

I'd be surprised if the return line, unobstructed, carries more than 10 psi. The pressure line can easily carry 800 psi.
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Old 02-11-2012, 02:33 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Default Kelly's way

She's American (I assume) and can do what she wants...

But, I started with manual steering and converted EVERYTHING on my car to OEM Power Steering. I made it a concours-grade installation and including sending the pump and control valve/drag link to CHOCK for rebuilding, and all detailing paints and NOS hoses, and an NOS "A" stamped pulley, I have less than $500 in it and it doesn't leak.

I do have the NOS hose clamp around the control valve to keep hose flex from causing leaks!
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