I have been searching around for a pair of 4 Barrel exhaust manifolds for my 70 and have come across a complete supposedly unmolested engine. Waiting for some pictures and further details, but this is what I know so far. Was removed from a totaled 70 mustang M code 4 speed, has original exhaust manifolds, intake, carburetor, air cleaner, power steering pump, alternator,etc..
My identifier guide tells me the casting # should be DOAE-6015-A,C,E,G,J or L.
So I have a couple of questions.
Would this have come with a Autolite 4300 carb from the factory?
Is there a way to tell if it is a 4 barrel block without dropping the oil pan? I don't see that there is a different casting number between the 4V and the 2V.
Worse case scenario the engine needs a complete rebuild what would a fair value be?
Any other items I should look out for?
Check back of block for Vin, as you are looking at the back left hand side right below the head. I have two "M" code cars both have the vin # on block. I am pretty sure the block is the same. Intake , heads, carb, and some internals are different. As for the value, I do not see as much Cleveland stuff around compared to 10 years ago. It might be along time before you find another complete unit. I could be out in left field, but I think $1,000.00 is reasonable. For complete unit matching carb. etc.
68 GT "S" Code,Convertible,4 speed, Tilt, Convenience Group, Deluxe Interior, Head Rests, Hood Stripes From Factory
1970 428 CJ Mach1, Shaker, Slats (Rear Window Shade)
The carb should be a 4300. The blocks are the same, 2V or 4V. Very few '70's had 4 bolt mains. In '71 and up I've seen 4 bolts on both 2V and 4V engines For what its worth, I have a left manifold. Depending on what part of the country you live in, I think values will be quite varied. Where I live in the pacific northwest, I recently saw a complete 1970 351C, 4V from a Torino sell for $450, owner claimed it ran and would make a good rebuildable core
So I got some phots and the numbers all line up to verify it came out of a 4V 70 mustang, I could read the part numbers exhaust manifolds and intake maninfold.
It is a 4 bolt main engine so maybe a little more desirable..
Thinking about buying it for the parts I need and rebuild it as a project..
What do you think it would cost me to rebuild? I would want to rebuild it to factory specs and upgrade any components that made sense during the process but not looking to vary much from factory.
I would do all the work I could myself, I am pretty mechanically inclined, but the most I have ever done on an engine was replace lower end crank bearings, oil pump, seals etc..so it would be a learning experience for me as I went through the preocess but I have the luxury of time as I wont be pressured to get it done for a specific project.
A basic 351C rebuild isn't any more expensive than, say, a 351W rebuild. But if you want to get some serious RPMs from the engine, some oiling mods would be a good idea. If you want to run an adjustable valve train, that can get into some money as you have to have the pedestals machined down to install screw-in, adjustable rocker studs. (Also a good idea, but not necessary if you'll be running a mild cam.)
Be very aware that building a Cleveland for performance, even mild peformance, is nothing like building a small block Chevy or Ford. If, for example, you install a cam grind that works great in a 351W, you'll likely be disappointed in how it runs in your Cleveland.
The myths and misconceptions we hear about the Cleveland are mostly based on people trying to build a Cleveland like a Chevy. The results are, "It's a dog below 5,000 RPM. The heads are just too big." Nonsense.
Check out the 351 Cleveland forum. Those guys have been running Clevelands for a very long time. You'll see some disagreements, but you'll also see some very good information.
From my experience, the passenger side manifold has a tendancy to crack. I had to go through 2 sets before I found one that wasn't cracked. I did have one of the cracked ones brazed at the crack, just in case I needed a backup.
All 1970 blocks were 2 bolt mains, the blocks with the 4 bolt mains are asually late 71 + boss 4v's, 72-73 4v's. Not sure but I believe 4 bolt main blocks have a D1AE-CA for the most part.
If the 2v-4v is what your after there should be a 2 or a 4 in the upper corner of the head by the intake. 2V manifolds are NOT interchangeble with 4V's. Also 71 and later driverside manifolds are different. The passinger side seems to interchange. A 1970 driverside manifold has a kinked in rear port for steering box clearance and dumps almost parallel to the ground. A 1971+ driverside manifold dumps at almost a 30 degree angle. If you have a Z bar (4speed) this can be a issue or tight steering box clearance.
Yes all 1970 351 4V's had a 4300 carb (600 cfm)
Depending on whats all there I'd say $500 would be a fair offer.
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