351C Valve Guide Seals (Umbrella) Help - Vintage Mustang Forums
 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-13-2012, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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351C Valve Guide Seals (Umbrella) Help

Hi gang,
After the winter storage my weekend project will be new umbrella valve stem seals. I have the original pedestal non adjustable valves. I'll have all plugs removed and air keeping the valves closed. I need a little help determining after I do the #1 cyl TDC to do both intake and exhaust seals do I simply reassemble and retorque my pedestal bolts 18 - 22 ft. lbs?

The next cylinder would be #3, so would this be a minimal crank rotation and watch the rotor button point to that distrubuter location #3 so both valves are then closed to prep this cylinder, repeat and work my way around the firing order?

I appreciate any help!!

Last edited by mach12345; 03-18-2012 at 08:21 AM.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-13-2012, 06:36 PM
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When using compressed air to hold the valves closed I would just run up one side and down the other. Just keep your hands out of the way of the fan and belts when connecting the air supply.



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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-15-2012, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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So, will replacing both valve seals per cylinder and a one time torque of the rocker bolt do it? Thanks
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-15-2012, 09:26 PM
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So, will replacing both valve seals per cylinder and a one time torque of the rocker bolt do it? Thanks
After replacing the seal and reinstalling the valve spring retainer and keepers, give the whole assembly a medium smack with a plastic hammer to ensure everything gets seated properly, then reinstall your rocker arm per specs.



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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-16-2012, 09:24 AM
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amd make sure you have the push rods seated in the lifter as in the C heads some of the holes are blind

its a real PIA trying do to it with the heads installed.

after careful consideration and my back issues I gave up on it last year.

an easy way to find TDC is to rotate the dizzy until the rotor points to the terminal. then both valves will closed.

then you can work off the dizzy rotation 13576548 IIRC. the firing order will be listed in the intake

also you may want to consider intalling new VT bolts as the orginals will tend to be brittle when you go to retorque them they may snap. ive broke a few backin the day.

1970 Mach 1 San Jose built Dec 23 1969. Marti says 1 of 7. Purchased in 1987. Original family owner of the powertrain 351C 2v FMX.


1993 GT 11,000 miles, Built 2-12-93 Auto, 3:27 Axle, cloth, sunroof. Untouched except for rubber and battery, Purchased new 8-3-93. still has the factory windshield fluid and new car smell.

Last edited by Blues Power; 03-16-2012 at 09:27 AM.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-16-2012, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the tips, hopefully the local NAPA has the correct rocker bolts? I also purchased an extra set of pushrods in case any are bent.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-17-2012, 11:15 AM
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Thanks for the tips, hopefully the local NAPA has the correct rocker bolts? I also purchased an extra set of pushrods in case any are bent.
To me that's two bunches of parts that you don't need to buy. Unless you find a problem while the engine is apart.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-18-2012, 07:56 AM Thread Starter
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Job complete! Not too bad, using air to keep the valves up did the trick. Another tip, realign and compress your valve spring even more after you remove it. It will give you better clearance to install the keepers. I ended up doing both valves per cylinder by rotating the crank around the rotor button firing order. Torqued to 20 ft lbs. I kept 4 plugs in at a time to keep the engine from turning when applying air, it made rotating by hand still pretty easy. Rechecked timing and took it for a spin, better throttle response and no more oil fouled plugs! Thanks for everyones help!!


Last edited by mach12345; 03-18-2012 at 08:18 AM.
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