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Old 03-15-2012, 09:26 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Rain Gutter Seal

Hey all,

My 66 coupe leaks in the rain. What is used to seal the rain gutters over the windows? Whatever it is, right now is dried up and coming out. I need to replace it.
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Old 03-15-2012, 10:34 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I used seam sealer.
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Old 03-16-2012, 01:32 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks! I'll pick some up and redo it. It's raining here today, so I'll get to see if the new windshield fixed the leak. *fingers crossed*
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Old 03-16-2012, 02:16 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EmbergloI6 View Post
Thanks! I'll pick some up and redo it. It's raining here today, so I'll get to see if the new windshield fixed the leak. *fingers crossed*

You are not talking about the roof rail weatherstrip, are you?

MUSTANG ROOFRAIL WEATHERSTRIP USA MADE PAIR COUPE 1965-1966
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Hickory, NC
1966 Coupe
2007 Premium MustangCoupe (V6).. Please don't shun me

Done
Replace Full floor pan
Replace Firewall
Replace Full cowl
Replace Radiator support
Shelby Drop done
Front disc brakes on

Up next:

4 wheel drum to disc conversion, rebuild front suspension/steering, taillight panel, trunk floor,302 and AOD upgrade, wiring harnesses back in, and hopefully only patch panels on the quarters

E=MChuck Norris
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Old 03-16-2012, 08:05 PM   #5 (permalink)
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You are not talking about the roof rail weatherstrip, are you?

MUSTANG ROOFRAIL WEATHERSTRIP USA MADE PAIR COUPE 1965-1966
No, I replaced all the weatherstripping already. I'm talking about outside the car between the chrome molding over the window and the roof. I think it's sometimes called a drip guard?
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:55 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Hi there,

I just bought a 66 and the sealant used in the drip guard looks in pretty bad shape. I don't think it's rusted, just bubbling from age. I'd like to scrape it all out and re-set it - just wondering if this is the same problem as you had and if so, what did you use?

thanks
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Old 11-30-2012, 10:33 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Yea I painted my car about 4 years ago and I completely strip and resealed this area with new seam sealer and now Iam noticing that all of it is cracking and coming up. I think I picked up a bad tube from the store. Has anybody else had this problem before?
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Old 11-30-2012, 10:46 AM   #8 (permalink)
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There is some product (help me out David) which is essentially fiberglass that you can use to cover up rust damage (after removing the rust). It hardens pretty good from what I've heard.
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Hickory, NC
1966 Coupe
2007 Premium MustangCoupe (V6).. Please don't shun me

Done
Replace Full floor pan
Replace Firewall
Replace Full cowl
Replace Radiator support
Shelby Drop done
Front disc brakes on

Up next:

4 wheel drum to disc conversion, rebuild front suspension/steering, taillight panel, trunk floor,302 and AOD upgrade, wiring harnesses back in, and hopefully only patch panels on the quarters

E=MChuck Norris
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Old 11-30-2012, 11:32 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I used 3M Metal Fill. After I replaced my quarter panels, I used 3M Metal Fill to fill the areas that were originally lead. It worked so well that I decided to use it in the drip rails.
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Old 11-30-2012, 11:38 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg'66 5.0 View Post
I used 3M Metal Fill. After I replaced my quarter panels, I used 3M Metal Fill to fill the areas that were originally lead. It worked so well that I decided to use it in the drip rails.

Is that a metal-to-metal type filler?
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Steven
Hickory, NC
1966 Coupe
2007 Premium MustangCoupe (V6).. Please don't shun me

Done
Replace Full floor pan
Replace Firewall
Replace Full cowl
Replace Radiator support
Shelby Drop done
Front disc brakes on

Up next:

4 wheel drum to disc conversion, rebuild front suspension/steering, taillight panel, trunk floor,302 and AOD upgrade, wiring harnesses back in, and hopefully only patch panels on the quarters

E=MChuck Norris
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Old 11-30-2012, 01:31 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Is that a metal-to-metal type filler?
Yes - it's metal to metal. It's pretty much a body filler that's impregnated with aluminum. It's just like the Evercoat Metal-to-Metal. The nice thing about it is that it shouldn't suffer from any shrinkage like some seam sealers do. It's also waterproof. Once it's bonded to the metal, it's not going anywhere. I mixed up and spread it into the channel and then ran my little finger through the channel to shape it before it set up. Once it sets up, it sands like body filler (although it puts up more of a fight than body filler does). The drip rail and roof pretty much look like a seamless piece of metal. Prior to application, I used a wire wheel in the drip rail to remove the old seam sealer and rust.
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Old 11-30-2012, 02:52 PM   #12 (permalink)
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3M Heavy Duty Drip Check is the product I have used for that situation. I flows easily and is sort of self leveling. You need to remove all of the old hardened and cracked factory stuff and inspect the metal underneath. You will likely find rust, even in the southwest cars. Repair the rust first. Re caulk with the Drip Seal or equal and then the area will have to be painted to match the roof. I actually had to replace a couple feet of drip rail because of the old stuff leaking.
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Old 11-30-2012, 03:38 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I removed all my old stuff with a wire wheel, then epoxy primed, followed by Eastwood's Seam Sealer, in beige. which is toluene-based. The stuff applies well and hardens to the consistency of a stiff silicone. Because of the stresses in this area, I'd be hesitant to use anything that hardens completely as it may not stay bonded to the whole surface, over time. Then you'll get water leaking in and a repeat of the process you fixed in the first place.
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Old 11-30-2012, 05:44 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gas_Pumps View Post
3M Heavy Duty Drip Check is the product I have used for that situation. I flows easily and is sort of self leveling. You need to remove all of the old hardened and cracked factory stuff and inspect the metal underneath. You will likely find rust, even in the southwest cars. Repair the rust first. Re caulk with the Drip Seal or equal and then the area will have to be painted to match the roof. I actually had to replace a couple feet of drip rail because of the old stuff leaking.
That is good stuff. Goes on easy and stays. Holds paint and seals well. And, yes you will probably find some rust under the old stuff if it's cracked.
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Old 11-30-2012, 05:53 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bartl View Post
I removed all my old stuff with a wire wheel, then epoxy primed, followed by Eastwood's Seam Sealer, in beige. which is toluene-based. The stuff applies well and hardens to the consistency of a stiff silicone. Because of the stresses in this area, I'd be hesitant to use anything that hardens completely as it may not stay bonded to the whole surface, over time. Then you'll get water leaking in and a repeat of the process you fixed in the first place.
Bart. why beige seam sealer? Just personal preference, or is it superior to the black Eastwood sells?
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Hickory, NC
1966 Coupe
2007 Premium MustangCoupe (V6).. Please don't shun me

Done
Replace Full floor pan
Replace Firewall
Replace Full cowl
Replace Radiator support
Shelby Drop done
Front disc brakes on

Up next:

4 wheel drum to disc conversion, rebuild front suspension/steering, taillight panel, trunk floor,302 and AOD upgrade, wiring harnesses back in, and hopefully only patch panels on the quarters

E=MChuck Norris
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