OK folks, ignore any other posts I have about my alignment. I have a '69 coupe with 302 and C4, p/s, p/b, a/c. Steering/suspension mods are 620lb springs, 1" sway bar, Pro-motorsports negative wedge kit (with shelby drop), bump steer kit and eccentric eliminator kit. Rides on 15x7s with BFGs. According to pro-motorsports I need 0* camber, 1-2* caster and 1/32-1/16 toe-in.
Last weekend the car was fine and then it started making a terrible tire squealing noise from the front tires at all speeds. The steering wheel also felt odd so I stopped and had the car towed home. The tires looked like they were on a race car with the tops tilted way outwards.
This weekend I've been trying to dial in the camber with no luck. No matter what hole I choose in the eccentric kit the camber is either negative or positive. Right now I have about -3* on the driver's side and -1* on the passenger side. If I change to the next hole it jumps to +3 on both sides.
Is there any other way to adjust camber besides the eccentric/lower control arm?
do you have a 2 hole or 4 hole camber thing on the lca ? try rotating it 90 deg at a time and even flipping the plates over. the 4 holer has 16 different camber settings. i have a set of 4 hole on my 68 torino and they allow small camber adjustments. my 68 torino also has moddified uca's with a reworked bj angle and are lowered 1.375". the 68 torino uses the same uca and lca as a 69 mustasng. i know of a couple of guys using those camber things and talked to them b 4 i bought mine. a foto of my 68 t and the reworked uca. also a foto of the torino konis. the t has 650 lb/in custom front coils. the coils in the foto are cut down stock ones.
Last edited by supershifter2; 03-25-2012 at 08:59 PM.
My camber plate has 2 holes. I'm starting to think I may have something broke or bad bushings somewhere since this happened so fast and now the camber changes so drastically with just small plate changes. According to the instructions for the eccentric plate each hole equals approx 1/2 degree of camber, but I'm getting multiple degree changes at a time.
None of my bushings/components move by hand...what's the best way to determine if I have bad bushings? The set on the car now are 15 year old poly with about 20k miles on them.
Yes, it sounds like it happened suddenly which would indicate something broken. Are you measuring your camber changes with the weight off the tires? The only correct way is to lower the vehicle back down on its wheels onto turnplates or greasy zip-lock bags making sure to bounce the front end before reading.
Did you check to see if the upper control arm bolts are tight? Are the wheel bearings tight?
I drive it around the block after each adjustment and cannot get consistent results...with the car on the ground. I swear I've jacked the car up 10 times today! I pulled and yanked on all the components but failed to actually check to see if any bolts were loose. I'll get my butt back under there tomorrow and see what I can find. I hadn't even thought of the bearings...
OK, weekend #2 trying to figure this out. I had a neighbor who is a mechanic check it out yesterday. We took pry bars to all the bushings to see where we could get some play. Nothing happened except a very little with the saddle perch and I do mean VERY little. I put it all together today to the same specs the car was at at the beginning and I have -1.5* on each side. At the beginning of all this that same setting created +3*.
So, the car has sat the last couple days on jack stands with the front wheels off. When I lowered it today the front was much higher than normal. I just figured that was because I hadn't moved the car yet and there was binding on the system. After driving it around some the car is now back to a lower height. But it just seems that the several inch difference I saw before and after driving is a bit excessive. I'm wondering if my front springs are bad. I don't really know how to verify if they are. They are pro-motorsport springs from the early '90s. Could bad springs cause any of my camber problems?
If the toe is out driving forward or reverse can push the suspension into a bind and raise or lower the cars ride height, causing the camber to change because of the difference in ride height. Which is why alignment machines use turntables.
1965 Fastback-Scat 331, Dart heads, FPA headers, Air Gap intake, 650 Ultra DP, Cobra pan, Lunati VooDoo cam 61003, C-4, 10 inch converter, Reverse manual valve body,Detroit Truetracw/3.50s, subframe connectors.
1968 S-code Torino Fastback= project
1966 A-code Mustang coupe=Basket case not sure what to do with it used some parts for the fastback.
I just had an epiphany tonight. I dropped the car off at an alignment shop to have the pros (I hope) check it out. While looking at the car it seemed like the front was sitting much lower than normal. Then I realized a couple months ago I swapped out my KYB Gas-A-Just shocks for some milder GR2s. The KYBs were very hard to press and the GR2s were not. Sooo, I'm thinking the KYBs were holding up the the car and now the softer shocks can't do that. I do believe my front springs may be bad! Is there a good technique to confirm my theory?
Nope...to both questions. Turns out there is something wrong with the car and its not all in my head. The shop worked on it for 4 hours today and everytime they got it set the camber would change when they took it for a test drive. They think there is some play with the lower control arm bushings and a little with the ball joints. I agree with them, just not enough for the issues going on to this degree. Regardless, I'm going to replace the springs (which may also be causing my fan to be sitting too low!!) and replace the lower control arms. I'm actually contemplating rebuilding the entire suspension since everything is about 20 years old. Might be a good time to just go for the whole enchilada...and do my borgeson at the same time.
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