I just got my engine rebuild done and it requires ZDDP in the oil. My question is, do I use regular oil and put the ZDDP additive in it or should I go with oils that have it in the oil already. Such as Valvoline VR1 or royal purple Is one way better than the other, and is one more expensive than th other ?
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73 Mach 1 Q code, 4 speed
05 mustang GT (sold)
65 GT350 clone (sold)
73 Mach 1 H code (sold)
91 5.0 LX Conv. (sold)
78 (yes a 78) mustang (sold)
"In the words of Ricky Bobby" If you ain't first, your last Ha, Ha Ha
i use joe gibbs racing oil they pretty good and it pretty dependendable oil. but sometimes it pretty hard to get ahold of but they have almost oil for any high preformance engine.
I just got my engine rebuild done and it requires ZDDP in the oil. My question is, do I use regular oil and put the ZDDP additive in it or should I go with oils that have it in the oil already. Such as Valvoline VR1 or royal purple Is one way better than the other, and is one more expensive than th other ?
For engine break in I would use a break in specific oil such as Joe Gibbs or Comp then switch to VR1.
i run the valvoline race oil. its not much m,ore than regular oil and its already got the zinc in it. it keeps me from forgetting to buy the additive when i change the oil. but +1 to what tommyk said, for a fresh engine use break in oil.
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The Mistress- '67 coupe, 289, 4.10's, 17's and
various other do-dads
The Pro-Mod- '97 F150 on 42's and 20's soon to
have a 4bt cummins under the hood (no longer with me and boy do I miss that truck)
The Scooter-'08 GSXR 600 white on white, olson
pipe
Spot- 2004 Land Rover Disco II, snorkel, roof rack, and tube bumpers are in the planning stages now.
"He was a good christian boy untill he got tangled up with loose women, hard liquer and fast cars"
-My parts guy
I use Amsoil 10W-40, which has the necessary zinc in it but am planning to switch to Amsoil's new "Street Rod" oil, made especially for flat tappet engines. I will go to the 10W-30. Since you can change their synthetic less often, timewise, I don't think there is any question that synthetic costs very little extra and protects better
For engine break in I would use a break in specific oil such as Joe Gibbs or Comp then switch to VR1.
I'm going to agree here. The VR1 is under $5 quart, case of 12 runs me $52 at my local mom and pop parts store, ZDDP runs around $8 a bottle for one oil change.
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66 Coupe 200I6 (Rolling Restoration)
66 Bronco Half cab, 203ci I6, CI aluminum head/intake, Isky cam, Keith Black pistons, Holley 390cfm 4V, Clifford header 9.7:1 compression, DSII ignition
Just about every cam mfg recommends adding ZDDP (and sells) to the oil. I personally spoke to Ron Iskenderian (Isky Racing Cams) when this 1st came about a few years ago, he recommended adding 1 bottle of ZDDP ((6 oz IIRR) to each oil change and with the mod engines (Ford 4.6, etc.), about 1/3 of a bottle with each oil change.
I don't race my 68 vert. Never in 50 years thought racing oil was best for plain driving...wierd I guess!
I use Valvoline 10W-30 in my original never rebuilt 68 289 C code. Since they reduced the ZDDP I add cam shield each change.
Slim
Not weird. In fact you have a good point. Racing oil doesn't clean as well, and probably not the best choice for a daily driver. I use it for two reasons. One, the zinc is there, don't have to think about it. Two, both vehicles get very few miles and I change every six months regardless of mileage. No where near even 3,000 miles a year.
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66 Coupe 200I6 (Rolling Restoration)
66 Bronco Half cab, 203ci I6, CI aluminum head/intake, Isky cam, Keith Black pistons, Holley 390cfm 4V, Clifford header 9.7:1 compression, DSII ignition
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