Trying to get the threads on the choke "outlet" tube to mate with the themostatic choke housing at the carb and I am finding that the pipe itself hits and the threads are not able to match up and be tightened. Not sure what is going on here?
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67 conv. 289 4spd(mine), 67 coupe 289 Export(swmbo's)
If you have one of the repops, It will never fit. The brass ferrule is all wrong. I compared it to my ratty looking OEM one and it was totally different. I don't remember what I did to fix the situation, but I remember the ferrule didn't work as it came.
The pipe inserts into the housing, then the compression fitting slides into place. I have never had the slightest trouble with repro tubes. The compression fitting is a common item, available in any decent hardware store or auto parts store.
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Amateur restorer. (Well, once in a while I have been paid for it)
I second 22GT's statements. A couple of times, I've had to loosen the carb in order to get the nut started, but that's all. Check to make sure the thread on the choke housing is in good shape. Have seen some cross threaded examples.
All I know, is my OEM one had a bulge, it didn't have a compression ferrule. The brass compression ferrule WILL NOT go up in the taper far enough for threads to start because the carburetor body on my C6DF-B had a taper inside, that had the geometry of the bulge in my OEM one. It didn't match the brass ferrule.
I was tempted to taper the inside differently but I wound up modifying the ferrule in the lathe.
can you buy that brass housing that the tube screws into... the one pictured in the photo above, left side. Is this a common item at NAPA or another car parts place.
can you buy that brass housing that the tube screws into... the one pictured in the photo above, left side. Is this a common item at NAPA or another car parts place.
Yes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bryancobb
All I know, is my OEM one had a bulge, it didn't have a compression ferrule. The brass compression ferrule WILL NOT go up in the taper far enough for threads to start because the carburetor body on my C6DF-B had a taper inside, that had the geometry of the bulge in my OEM one. It didn't match the brass ferrule.
Strange. I have installed many, and never had a problem unless the threads were damaged on the choke housing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ylexot
2V, 4V, Factory carb?
The 1V, 2V, and 4V all used the same fitting.
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Amateur restorer. (Well, once in a while I have been paid for it)
I'm a little confused. The picture you posted looks like copper tubing and fittings from a hardware store.
My repop set had a steel line, with a female brass nut and the ferrule. It DID NOT have the brass male fitting. My heat coil chamber had it's inlet cast into its' body, including the male threads and the taper inside, for the bulge on my OEM steel line??
Don't pay attention to the 1100. Just look at the choke heat chamber. The place where mine screws on looks just like this. The ferrule takes up almost 1/4 of space and the brass nut is only threaded for a little more than that inside. It won't even screw on a full turn.
I'm a little confused. The picture you posted looks like copper tubing and fittings from a hardware store.
My repop set had a steel line, with a female brass nut and the ferrule. It DID NOT have the brass male fitting. My heat coil chamber had it's inlet cast into its' body, including the male threads and the taper inside, for the bulge on my OEM steel line??
The tube in the photo is copper, the one on cars is steel. However, the compression ring, and retaining nut, are absolutely identical to those used on cars. The double-threaded brass item is often used to repair stripped cast-on threads on choke housings. Whether hardware store or Ford parts bin, the brass parts are identical.
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Amateur restorer. (Well, once in a while I have been paid for it)
You have to make sure the pipe is going straight into the fitting on the carb. If it is off even a little it makes it very difficult to start the brass fitting.
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Attaching the Choke pipe fitting to carb
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