That's a great deal... wish I had done that before purchasing my 351w stroker that was supposed to have 400 hp at the flywheel but actually only has 330 and cast iron heads. Plus the 302 fits in a 1965 better than the 351w... I got mine for $3300 but it doesn't have aluminum heads. What brand of heads does this come with?
Flo-Tek....they are manufactured by Tri-state cylinder heads in Evansville, IN.
It's a little thing called quality & risk management.....for a few hundred dollars more, you can have a component that is machined correctly (a previous qa issue with both Eagle & Scat) and given the increased forces that the stroker generates throughout the block % engine assembly, well, let's put it this way.....
Crower for example runs less than a 1% failure rate fromtheir standards (which in all reality means 100% qa deliverable)...Scat & Eagle, up to 15%..while many will say mine has run great for XXX years/miles- thats great, I'm glad you got a good one, not everyone is so lucky and a few too many get stuck serveal years & XX miles down the road with and engine or drivetrain that has unnecessary issues related to this.....the ol saying, pay me now or pay me later..!
You are not going to get a Crower crank for only a few hundred more than a scat forging. Last Crower I bought was $1599. For anything under 800hp, a SCAT crank is PLENTY good. Anything more is complete overkill. I know some guys though that can break an anvil, though, so for them even a $2500 billet can be broken.
You are not going to get a Crower crank for only a few hundred more than a scat forging. Last Crower I bought was $1599. For anything under 800hp, a SCAT crank is PLENTY good. Anything more is complete overkill. I know some guys though that can break an anvil, though, so for them even a $2500 billet can be broken.
What makes you think they don't have numerous ways to get out of the warranty.
__________________
My Driver - 65' GT Coup | Ford Racing 306" Roller | AOD | 600/1406 Edel w/Air Gap | MSD Dizzy | 3.55 Currie | Classic Air In Dash | ididit | Maier Racing Full Suspension | Panhard Bar | Roller Perches | Power TCP Rack & Pinion | Power Brakes | Sanderson Shorty's for AOD | Global West Rods | Old Air Electric Fan | Dynomax Vt's |
What makes you think they don't have numerous ways to get out of the warranty.
Have you read the warranty sheet? Everything is in writing....seems pretty straight forward to me. I know there are ways for companies to weasle out of things, but I read a lot of contracts each day with language much more in depth than theirs and from my trained eye, there are not a lot of loopholes in the warranty sheet. With it clearly reduced to writing and from my conversations with Andrew from BluePrint, you have to trust people sometimes. He assured me if something were to fail within that warranty period, it would be taken care of.
Yes....
This Limited Warranty is not an unconditional warranty against all hazards or failures. BluePrint Engines shall not be responsible for:
Damage or repairs required as a consequence of faulty installation, misuse, misapplication, abuse, improper servicing, unauthorized alteration or improper operation.
Parts not supplied by BluePrint Engines.
Damages resulting one year after date of purchase from accessory parts installed by BluePrint Engines. (Accessory parts are covered for one year from date of purchase.)
Damages resulting from detonation or pre-ignition, including but not limited to melted or broken pistons, broken or scored rings, damaged cylinder heads or gaskets, scoring on cylinder walls or piston heads.
Damages resulting from improper pre-lubrication prior to start-up
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My Driver - 65' GT Coup | Ford Racing 306" Roller | AOD | 600/1406 Edel w/Air Gap | MSD Dizzy | 3.55 Currie | Classic Air In Dash | ididit | Maier Racing Full Suspension | Panhard Bar | Roller Perches | Power TCP Rack & Pinion | Power Brakes | Sanderson Shorty's for AOD | Global West Rods | Old Air Electric Fan | Dynomax Vt's |
Yes....
This Limited Warranty is not an unconditional warranty against all hazards or failures. BluePrint Engines shall not be responsible for:
Damage or repairs required as a consequence of faulty installation, misuse, misapplication, abuse, improper servicing, unauthorized alteration or improper operation.
Parts not supplied by BluePrint Engines.
Damages resulting one year after date of purchase from accessory parts installed by BluePrint Engines. (Accessory parts are covered for one year from date of purchase.)
Damages resulting from detonation or pre-ignition, including but not limited to melted or broken pistons, broken or scored rings, damaged cylinder heads or gaskets, scoring on cylinder walls or piston heads.
Damages resulting from improper pre-lubrication prior to start-up
That's why you have an authorized shop install it and pre lube it properly. I don't expect them to cover the parts I buy. I am not buying any of their turn key accessories. Warranty or not, you should always document your servicing of any engine. This is a cruising car, not a drag car. I do not plan to modify this engine beyond the standard intake, carb and distributor which is obviously needed to operate.
I have addressed these potential issues with Andrew at blueprint. I believe they are the type of company that would bend over backwards to make things right should something happen.
Hey guys seeing a lot of questions about our warranty. 66fstbck - you will be satisfied, if you are not satisfied with your BluePrint Engine at any point in time, I will make it so you are.
Hey guys seeing a lot of questions about our warranty. 66fstbck - you will be satisfied, if you are not satisfied with your BluePrint Engine at any point in time, I will make it so you are.
Andrew.
Andrew, what are the limitations on the warranty if I install it myself with the help of some knowledgeable friends? From talking to you, and reading the warranty language, it would have to be shown the install itself caused any engine failure. Pre-lube and break in can be done as easily by me than some shop, in fact I'd be more comfortable that it was done right if I do it and monitor it all.
Andrew, regarding the prelube process, I'm sure this is done when you all run these on the engine dyno. I assume it needs to be done again? Do you all drain the oil when you ship the engine?
I know from my experience that my engine is more likely to survive if I install it and not any of the jack leg shops we have in town. I once took my Versailles axles to a well known shop in town that was very big into building race and street cars.
They almost ruined my axles removing the bearings.
Started sending my daughter to another local shop for an oil change. I just had it out with them last month because idiot oil changer removed the aluminum washer from the drain plug and tried torquing it down to stop leaking. Stripped the drain plug.
I've had more damage done to my cars with my local shops that I have had done with 3 teenage drivers!
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1995 GT convertible - Laser Red
1995 GT convertible - Black (Son's ride)
1966 GT Fastback under restoration- Code T Red
with White LeMans stripes.
Hi Andrew
Good to have you join us. It's always good to have a vendor who can answer questions for those of us who purchase products.
Stan
__________________ Bay Area Mustang Association
President BAMA 2012-
'65 Fastback Mustang Monthly March 2013 NorCal Forum
Before
After
If you can read this, thank a teacher. Since it's in English, thank a soldier
MPH65K and ScottsGT- If you would install the engine yourself it would not void your warranty or hurt it in any way, the only difference is since you are not out any thing out of pocket we do not reimburse you for your labor time.
66FSTBCK, You are correct when you receive our engine it will not have any fluids in the motor, and we do recommend that you follow an initial break in process to verify the initial and total timing on the motor. As far as the prelube process, all engines have been dyno tested, but because many of our distributors inventory the engines we want customers to fill filter and pan to recommended level of oil, verify the ignition source does not have power, remove spark plugs and crank engine over with starter until oil pressure is visible on a manual guage. DO NOT SUPPLY FUEL TO ENGINE DURING THIS PROCESS.
aslan, Thanks for introducing yourself and if you have any questions please let me know!
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