Hey guys. I know solenoids can be cheaply made and can cause major problems (sticking after the car starts, sending full voltage to the starter, burning up wires/starters, even worse).
Similar to the old voltage reguators vs. modern circuits, modern alternators vs generators, is there a modern reliable replacement for the old starter solenoid technology?
__________________ <--The One-Wheel-Peel-Mobile
1965 Mustang Fastback, 289 4v, 3-speed, converted T code
Nothing really more modern out there except replacing the original sliding pole shoe design starter with a newer design permanent magnet design or "mini-starter" as most people call them. The fender mounted solenoid (actually a relay) can be eliminated when doing this, however the permanent magnet starter uses a solenoid that mounts directly on the unit that can still fail.
If you are having parts issues try buying a starter relay from Ford - they are still available and are much better than the aftermarket ones. If you are concerned with originality try AMK Products.
You also may want to have a starter current draw test performed on your car if you are having problems like you mentioned. Having too much current draw can damage the solenoid and wiring. The causes of this can be a faulty starter and/or poor wiring connections.
I should have stated that i do NOT need to keep anything original. I'm only interested in safety/reliability. I did read in a magazine that the FORD brand is definitely best.
__________________ <--The One-Wheel-Peel-Mobile
1965 Mustang Fastback, 289 4v, 3-speed, converted T code
A properly rated IGBT would do it. The problem though is you also need a sufficiently beefy fly back diode to keep from turning the IGBT into a wire after the first shot. There's also gate thresholds, heat dissipation, operating temperature range and some other things I'm not pulling up right now. In this case simpler is better. I have rebuilt the solenoid on my lawn tractor a bunch of times. It's just a matter of cleaning up the bronze contacting surfaces. I replaced the pop rivets with 4-40 hardware. I have two original 67 solenoids that I've been meaning to rebuild but with the rivets instead.
__________________
Formerly of the Permanently Addicted...
Let it be known that I do not street race or condone that sort of thing
- unless the 'b@stard deserves it.
Someone takes his pants off and the rafters knock
Rock is dead they say
Long Live Rock!
67 conv. 289 4spd(mine), 67 coupe 289 Export(swmbo's)
With regards to solenoids there are two types, cheap (sell for about $25 & retail at about $40) and the good ones (sells for about $35 and retails for about $50).....
If you want to move up into the 1980's you can buy one of these at any parts store-
"For" a 1995 F150 5.0 for example. Newer style, different mount, slightly different hookup, but I can't say that one is actually better. ylexot might have an opinion on that.
I'm running one of these in the trunk of my '67 (along with the battery) and a late style Ford PMGR starter. Works for me.
It's a solid unit. I've replaced a grand total of one of those in my life. Can't say the same for the old style. They also come with three terminals if you want to chance the body ground. KISS baby. Bronze on bronze has worked for nearly a hundred years.
__________________
Formerly of the Permanently Addicted...
Let it be known that I do not street race or condone that sort of thing
- unless the 'b@stard deserves it.
Someone takes his pants off and the rafters knock
Rock is dead they say
Long Live Rock!
67 conv. 289 4spd(mine), 67 coupe 289 Export(swmbo's)
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.