My turn signals work but after I'm done turning I have to manually put the lever back to the center position. Is that normal or do I need a new turn signal switch assm?
If I need a new switch, now would be a good time to do it because I have the steering wheel off. Also, thanks to dodgestang for the links to the steering wheel and hub I just bought. Heres a pic with them sitting in position - not bolted or wired yet (hopefully tomorrow):
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64 1/2 D code coupe
289 4 speed toploader
My turn signals work but after I'm done turning I have to manually put the lever back to the center position. Is that normal or do I need a new turn signal switch assm?
If I need a new switch, now would be a good time to do it because I have the steering wheel off. Also, thanks to dodgestang for the links to the steering wheel and hub I just bought. Heres a pic with them sitting in position - not bolted or wired yet (hopefully tomorrow):
sounds like the cam is missing or broken. a new switch may be in order.
So it is supposed to return on its own. I wasn't sure if it was designed that way or not. I'll replace the cam/switch. I think I may have one in a box of yet to be installed parts from the po.
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64 1/2 D code coupe
289 4 speed toploader
My '64 1/2 vert. Ordered May '64. D code 4 speed, handling package, caspian blue, accent group, Ford blue manual top.
'68 vert. driver. Owned since '77. C code AT, AC, PS, P disc B, PT lime gold, standard black interior and top. NOS RF fender and left quarter.New top and folding glass.
So what if your lever locks into position turning left but when you turn right you have to hold the lever or the blinker stops? That's the problem I'm having with mine.
So what if your lever locks into position turning left but when you turn right you have to hold the lever or the blinker stops? That's the problem I'm having with mine.
Your switch is trashed. Time to go shopping.
Quote:
Originally Posted by STLMustangGuy
Mine cancels when turning left but not right. Looks like I need some work. It didn't even cancel left until I torqued the steering wheel nut down.
Yours is trashed, too.
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Amateur restorer. (Well, once in a while I have been paid for it)
To the OP:
With the steering wheel removed you should
see where its broken. At one time there was
a aftermarket replacement piece you could
get to replace just the broken portion and
not the whole switch, not sure if they are still
available, most likely you will have to replace
the whole switch.
Buy the more expensive switch. Last I knew they were still being made by the same company that made them in the 60s. The lower-cost reproductions are junk and are known to last about a year.
Honestly, if i were in your shoes, I would live with it until they quit working all together. You might get a few years out of the switch that's in there, and they're like $130 to replace.
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"I'd rather laugh with the sinners than cry with the saints." - Billy Joel, Only The Good Die Young
You have an aftermarket steering wheel. Most likely whoever installed it never put the roll pins in the steering wheel head mount that serve as the cam/cancellor.
here is a link to a previous thread about the turn signal canceling cam.
I havent had much success changing just the cam and got lucky and found a NOS switch on FleaBay for $20... I put it in the wifes coupe last weekend... it works perfect.
You have an aftermarket steering wheel. Most likely whoever installed it never put the roll pins in the steering wheel head mount that serve as the cam/cancellor.
He has the cancelling pins, otherwise the RH turn wouldn't cancel, either.
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Amateur restorer. (Well, once in a while I have been paid for it)
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