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Old 06-07-2012, 03:39 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Autolite 1100 headache

I have a 1968 200CID inline 6 with an Autolite 1100. Just started restoring it. I just installed a carb rebuild kit on it. Then put the carb back on, started the car, it started right up after the fuel hit the carb. I watched as it warmed up, the choke-plate started to open.... Then it died! If the car is cold and the choke is closed, it runs fine, but as it warms and the choke plate opens, it dies instantly. Is there any general starting point I should be setting at the auto choke? Iíve noticed thereís marking on the plastic cover. What should I look for, something I need to adjust on the carb? I am pretty new to working on cars, so I don't know where to start. Is there a step-by-step guide for tuning this carb? Where could I find such info.


Thanks for any help and advice.
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Old 06-07-2012, 03:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Sounds like you are getting too much air in the engine, hold your hand over the carb and if it keeps running, you are sucking air from somewhere. Maybe a vacuum leak
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Old 06-07-2012, 06:25 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'd wager you've got a vacuum leak.
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Old 06-07-2012, 08:10 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I had the same problem, I could not find the vacuum leak, I had a post or 2 on it.
I changed the spark control valve, and it took care of it.
(ok, so could the problem with the spark control valve have been the leak?)

excerpt of an old post....
"find a post on a diff forum, someones describes my issue to a T. He fixed it by changing the spark control valve. I had a rebuild kit handy, I changed my spark control valve. The car now starts, idles, warms up and stays running(whew)."

Good luck, I know how frustrating it can be. I wasn't confident enough to rebuild my own, I wasted many months mailing it back and forth to a rebuilder.
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Old 06-07-2012, 11:07 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Yep, sounds like a vacuum leak.
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Old 06-08-2012, 12:35 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Could be carb is set too lean. Try a little more throttle as you de-choke. If that cures it once you're in the main jet circuit, then you likely have it set too lean on the idle mix screw, or it could be the float level is a little too low. Good luck
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Old 06-08-2012, 08:15 AM   #7 (permalink)
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68 was the first year of no spark control valve and vacuum/centrifical advance distributor.
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Old 06-08-2012, 04:51 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I doubled a tripled check all the vacuum lines and everything seems to be hooked up. I even covered the carb with my hand and she stalled right away so I donít think thatís the issue. Thereís no spark control valve on this model so I guess Iíll have to start turning screws again until I find the right spot lol. Thanks for the help guys.
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Old 06-08-2012, 05:08 PM   #9 (permalink)
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If you haven't thrown away your rebuild instructions, look for the internal power control valve. Not a removeable part, just a spring loaded valve. If this is stuck it will give you this indication. Item#23
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Old 06-11-2012, 09:45 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Mystery solved, apparently the guy I bought the car from tossed on a autolite 1100 for and auto trans. Mines a 3 speed, this is prob causing my issues. Now comes the fun part, trying to find the correct replacement.
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Old 06-11-2012, 09:56 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MustangJon83 View Post
Mystery solved, apparently the guy I bought the car from tossed on a autolite 1100 for and auto trans. Mines a 3 speed, this is prob causing my issues. Now comes the fun part, trying to find the correct replacement.
Probably not the cause of your stalling. Typically the differences between manual and auto trans carbs is minor and may include such things as an anti-stall dashpot for automatics. Make sure your curb idle screw is in far enough to open the throttle plates just a hair - then you can adjust it down from there.
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Old 06-12-2012, 02:06 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Yep, other than the dashpot functionality they're pretty much interchangeable.
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