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Old 07-13-2012, 02:58 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Hi guys, here some news:
I just installed new leaf springs and it's better!
Chatter is 80% gone on "normal" take off.
Still some chatter on hill sometimes.
I know there is still a small problem somewhere but the car is drivable now

The old original leaves looked like new but was very light and weak

The drivability is x10 better, the car goes straight, steering is more accurate...ok, it's a bit stiffer for my butt...

To sum up, I'm very pleased with these new springs and chatter has almost disappeared.
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Old 07-13-2012, 08:25 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Karl...not sure if you mentioned, but do you have air shocks on the car? I've heard this can also be a cause of clutch chatter.

Paul
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Old 07-18-2012, 12:27 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul25g View Post
Karl...not sure if you mentioned, but do you have air shocks on the car? I've heard this can also be a cause of clutch chatter.

Paul
Hi Paul,
No, I don't have air shocks
I must tell that I made lot of tests to find the cause and I was very doubtful about the leaf springs even when I saw them shuddering like crazy on take off.
Don't know if it was the cause or the consequence but the chatter was sure amplified by the weak leaves.
To all "clutch chatter victim's": think about your leaves!
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Old 07-18-2012, 01:11 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Karl71 View Post
Hi Paul,
No, I don't have air shocks
I must tell that I made lot of tests to find the cause and I was very doubtful about the leaf springs even when I saw them shuddering like crazy on take off.
Don't know if it was the cause or the consequence but the chatter was sure amplified by the weak leaves.
To all "clutch chatter victim's": think about your leaves!
Good insight. I have obnoxious chatter on mine and the leaf springs have been sagging for some time, propped up with longer shackles.

I am putting together a list of things to check off while I pin down the chatter; the springs are now on the list.

Thanks,
Marty
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Old 07-19-2012, 08:10 AM   #20 (permalink)
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The chatter still occurs and I can feel it when I play slowly with the clutch pedal, I can feel intermittent and fast grip/no grip sequences... but stronger leaves stop this kind of bad frequency that made the car shaking.
I still must investigate to find the real guilty (play in crankshaft? clutch? trans? rear axle?)
I think repeated shuddering made the play somewhere bigger and bigger play results in bigger shuddering...(I can feel vibrations when cruising at +50mph now and there was no vibrations before)
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Old 11-19-2012, 05:44 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Hi all, I'm back!
Like I told before, chatter still occurs but the car is drivable now.
Chatter during all this time made my yoke have a lot of play in tailshaft housing. My trans made noise in 1/2/1/R too so I decided to rebuild the trans,suspecting front bearing for noise and output bushing for play.
The bushing was a little worn but not much and the problem seems to be the yoke itself. While my trans was out, I decided to check the clutch having still in mind the chatter issue and I think I found the culprit: hot spots on the flywheel and 0.005" flatness variations. I just ordered a new flywheel and let you informed!
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:00 AM   #22 (permalink)
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I think you'll find the hot spots are the symptoms, not the cause. While you're in there, grab the flywheel and see if you have excessive crank endplay. Put a dial indicator on it for measurement.
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Old 11-19-2012, 12:08 PM   #23 (permalink)
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I tried to push/pull the FW but no play at all.
I'll check again when I install the new flywheel.
Does oil on FW can result in hot spots?
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Old 11-19-2012, 01:06 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Hi all,
I'm Karl from France (sorry for my english) and used to read your forum for a while.
I own a 66 convertible for 1 year and had a coupe before.
My 66 vert has been concours restored by the previous owner 15 years ago and most of parts are new or restored. By new, I mean 15 years old but the car stayed in a garage and trailered to shows.

The car is a 4 speed manual (BW T10) and 2.8:1 rear end ratio.
My main problem is clutch chatter which can be very violent shaking all the car that occur in 1st gear and reverse only and more when car is hot.
We only drive manual cars in France and I think the issue don't come from my way of driving!

I just changed the "old" LUK clutch / bearing / pilot with a premium RAM clutch and the problem still occurs! It's even worse because the RAM clutch results in a harder pedal effort...

Motor/trans mounts are ok (15 years)+ not any leak from behind the engine + no play in Z bar + pilot bearing is new + flywheel is 15 years old but looks new and flat (I checked it) + new clutch + no play in u joints or rear end + rear springs have been restored 15 years ago (dismantled and repaint)

I'm wondering if this chatter is normal on this car and if I must live with it?
I must tell I've read all the existing posts from internet on the subject but can't find the solution to the problem.
Thanks for your help.
You have probably checked this, but does your clutch pedal have any play on the shaft shared with the brake pedal behind the steering wheel? I just finished redoing my clutch pedal and most of the linkage. I have owned my car 1966 coupe with BWT10 since 1984 and it always had a violent shake during takeoff. It was so bad that it was impossible to takeoff even on a slight incline. After parking it from 1988 to 2012, I redid the pedals and the linkage, but I suspect the pedal was the main culprit.

Now the car has a slight chatter on takeoff, only noticeable if you are paying attention. Check the clutch pedal for wear.
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Old 11-21-2012, 04:48 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Hi Marty, have no play in pedal
Hi GJZ, I just checked the end play: 0.008" (0.2mm), max of the tolerances
(dual gauge in millimeters in france...). Do you think it can contribute to hot spots?
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Old 11-21-2012, 05:28 PM   #26 (permalink)
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I had a similar problem many years ago. I would get a almost violent shaking from a stop that I could feel in the steering wheel. The clutch wore out and I had it replaced, still experienced the shutter and quickly wore out the new clutch. Figuring I could screw it up cheaper myself and maybe I could actually fix it, I did the next one myself. Long story short, I also replaced the clutch throw-out fork and the pivot piece, that resolved the problem. Being young and inexperienced I didn't take notice if the flywheel was burned or not but the problem was gone.

By the way it was a 1968 C code fastback, 4 speed, manual steering and air conditioning. Who would order it that way?
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Old 11-21-2012, 05:35 PM   #27 (permalink)
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u cant check pedal for play/wear without removing large spring under the dash. wes
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Old 11-21-2012, 05:45 PM   #28 (permalink)
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@Oldpaint:
I just ordered a new flywheel and a fork (mine was twisted and worn flat on the bearing pivot location)
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Old 11-21-2012, 06:19 PM   #29 (permalink)
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While you have it apart it might be a good idea to check the bell housings location relative to the crank centerline. If bell is not properly centered the clutch disk will chatter.
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Old 12-27-2012, 05:31 AM   #30 (permalink)
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Hi guys,
a new flywheel and disc solved the problem.
I changed the rear main seal (my mechanics told me he did it last time but the upper side was still in rope and he only changed the lower side...)
Because of the chatter, there was lot of play in the yoke so I changed yoke and trans bushing too.
All is ok now!
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