Really wanted to be part of this comunity and without a car I feel like an outsider you know. Well it wont be too long I hope.
Thanks
You are in one of the best places you can be before you make your first purchase. Keep reading, learning and looking at cars. Keep posting questions. The better educated you are, the better purchasing desicion you'll make.
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68 GT Vert - J Code (1st car I ever drove in '73, dad bought it in '71)
67 C Code Vert Sports Sprint (1st car I ever bought in '75)
06 Vista Blue with Pony Package (1st Mustang I ever bought new)
MCA #49294 Grayson, GA (Atlanta)
Went and looked at another 67 today. Has a newly rebuilt 302. Sounds pretty good, but there was some oil by the water pump. The seller was surprised that it was there. the floor pans seem to be ok but there was signs of rust on the rear 1/4 where the roof meets. Looks to be one paint job over the white original. It has air shocks in the back so the springs are shot. Power drum brakes that feel unpowered and manual steering. Sucks. The rear tires looked good but only cleared the leaf springs by a 1/2". Interior was ok but needed a restore and so does the front suspension and steering.
Does all this add up to a $8500 car? I feel that it doesn't. I didnt feel excited about this car.
Im planning on looking at another car next week thats sounds pretty good. Its priced at $13900 but probably get it for $11,000. Seller states its 99% restored. Rebuilt 289 and C4, body work done with s nice red paint. Interior completely restored. Power drums, power steering. Doesnt say anything about the suspension.
Hey turbo - any pics?..... Also not too sure about that oil. Using those air shocks I'd be curious on metal stress where the shocks bolt into the body under the rear seats. Rear leafs can run you from 150 - 450 (matters what youre looking for), and replacing the front suspension can really run up the $ in parts alone (assuming you're doing all the labor)....How'd the front rails (esp under battery), battery apron, cowl vents, frame rails, torque boxes, firewall, rocker panels, etc look?
The way its written, pics would help cuz it may be worth 8500 but doesnt sound like it...
As you go up in price - the body absolutely needs to be squared away, and along with the rising price tag... recent and sound investments in the suspension, engine, brakes, fuel, drivetrain, interior, and paint (the order matters on the buyer)....I would put more emphasis on things you dont want to fix vs the things you can if you need to compromise on a car that you might like (both in price and condition)...
Hey turbo - any pics?..... Also not too sure about that oil. Using those air shocks I'd be curious on metal stress where the shocks bolt into the body under the rear seats. Rear leafs can run you from 150 - 450 (matters what youre looking for), and replacing the front suspension can really run up the $ in parts alone (assuming you're doing all the labor)....How'd the front rails (esp under battery), battery apron, cowl vents, frame rails, torque boxes, firewall, rocker panels, etc look?
The way its written, pics would help cuz it may be worth 8500 but doesnt sound like it..
As you go up in price - the body absolutely needs to be squared away, and along with the rising price tag... recent and sound investments in the suspension, engine, brakes, fuel, drivetrain, interior, and paint (the order matters on the buyer)....I would put more emphasis on things you dont want to fix vs the things you can if you need to compromise on a car that you might like (both in price and condition)...
Thanks for the input. The front rails were ok but didnt get a good look under the battery apron, cowl vents surprisingly look ok even the bottom floor pan looked good but as I grew disinterested in the car I didnt ask if I could take the sill off and pull the carpet back, I was looking at the frame rails and they were kind of beat up from being jacked up and down through the years, not sure what the torque boxes is? The firewall, rocker panels looked ok. I didnt see much rust. Not even on the Inside of the trunk. I only have pics from CL. I did think about taking any.
I have 3 other prospects all claim no rust and are 99% restored. They are in the 11-15k range, but everyones definition of restored is different. I think my problem is im just not that qualified to judge a car. I knew to walk away from this car yesterday but I need to go with someone more knowledgeable or do more home work. What I do know is I rather start with a car that has had most if not all body work done. I can handle the rest. I have this crazy idea of installing a 428 cobra jet and completely replacing all the suspension and big disc brakes all around. I can dream right lol.
Something is fishy about the guy with the red car. I wont go into much detail but he keeps asking me how much I have saved up and a few other strange things. Im done with him.
Going to see another that is 100 miles away. Hope its worth it. Seller says the body is straight and only has rust on one door $4700. Here's a link with some bad pics. http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/3531756878.html
The hunt continues. In the mean time Im planning to buy a 351W block.
So I have another lead. Its a bone stock 67 coupe 289 auto with air, power steering and power disc brakes. May have a tilt steering colume. Original dark green paint thats deader than dead. Original 2 tone green interior that of course needs to be converted to black. God awful. It's used as a daily driver. Seller says theres zero rust and no dents. Now the only thing is they are asking $7500. Seems high but if the body is really rust free and straight does it seem worth it? If there is some rust and the body is still straight what you think? I hope to talk the price down to $6900 or less.
Please guys let me know what you think. I'll post some pics of it in a bit and tomorrow I'll post some other ones when I see it in person.
So I have another lead. Its a bone stock 67 coupe 289 auto with air, power steering and power disc brakes. May have a tilt steering colume. Original dark green paint thats deader than dead. Original 2 tone green interior that of course needs to be converted to black. God awful. It's used as a daily driver. Seller says theres zero rust and no dents. Now the only thing is they are asking $7500. Seems high but if the body is really rust free and straight does it seem worth it? If there is some rust and the body is still straight what you think? I hope to talk the price down to $6900 or less.
Please guys let me know what you think. I'll post some pics of it in a bit and tomorrow I'll post some other ones when I see it in person.
It doesn't look too bad. I think the PS, Disc brakes and air add about $1500 to the value so if there's no rust and you can talk him down a bit, it looks like a good start. I paid $7200 for mine and it didn't have the air or disc brakes but the interior was new.
This is sad. I was just reading about scams on GL and I believe the link I have for the red 67 is a total scam. The seller kept asking me how much I had saved up. Sent me conflicting pics of the engine and then when I wanted to come see the car he was busy everytime. What I believe is he wanted to meet up and rob me. Who knows but my gut told me something was wrong.
Will do. Going to go look at it today at 4. I hope they dont have a problem with me asking to take the sill off to pull the carpet up to check for rust.
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