New guy here and need some advise about buying a 67 project car.
Hi Guys, I used to be a 67 Mustang owner about 17 years ago but had to sell her. Now I want another 67. Question is how should I go about buying a running project car? I know where to look for rust and body damage, but what about the frame? Will private sellers take the cars to a mechanic and have it looked at? My budget is around $4000-$6000. What should I expect to get for that? I have looked at Gregs list and the prices are all over the place. I guess what I have in mind is a car with very little rust, straight frame/body and running just OK. I dont care about the condition of the paint and interior because I can do that stuff myself. Oh and I just want a Coupe. Any suggestions you guys have I would love to hear them.
Hang out here, Craigslist and Ebaymotors, look, listen, ask questions and learn,..don't fall in love with the first one you find, they're many out there. Join a local Rustang club and make friends,......
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Wife,........."You drove how far for that thing?"
Daughter,..."Theres no inside and it stinks."
Friend,......."Dude, thats a rusted piece of sheet."
Son,.........."This old car is cool."
I plan on hanging around here. Im afraid I dont have much to offer though. I did restore my interior when I was 17. So I do know about that. This might be a ridiculous question, but dont you have to have a Mustang to be in a Mustang club?
dont you have to have a Mustang to be in a Mustang club?
Absolutely not. Just have to have a passion for Mustangs.
Welcome to the VMF!
Seriously, join a local club, look, learn and listen. Do as much homework as you can before making the purchase decision. Look at lots of cars and ask lots of questions.
Dave
__________________
68 GT Vert - J Code (1st car I ever drove in '73, dad bought it in '71)
67 C Code Vert Sports Sprint (1st car I ever bought in '75)
06 Vista Blue with Pony Package (1st Mustang I ever bought new)
MCA #49294 Grayson, GA (Atlanta)
I am a member of the Hudson club and have not owned a Hudson since my "47 in 1954. I came home from the hospital in a '29 and learned to drive in a '36. That is all I need; an interest in the brand. Stick with it - this is about the best forum on the internet.
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SWMBO's '66 Coupe 289, 2-V, C-4(Pony Interior, Rally Pac, A/C & Tiffany Stripe) & An absolutely rust free '65 289-2V C-4 coupe project now UPGRADED to about 93.891% complete. Only a few more years.
Indeed, joining a Mustang club is an excellent first step when looking to buy a Mustang. As I always say, it's very likely there's someone in the club selling a Mustang you'd be interested in, or someone in the club knows of a good car for sale.
Also, if you're friendly, and willing to help out with the club, it's likely they'll help scout out and inspect cars. Mustang fans don't like to see people get taken by paying too much for a lousy car. We'd rather help someone find a good car or find as many existing problems as possible before buying.
I think looking for a running/driving car is also a good idea. In my experience, a running/driving car that needs a lot of work isn't any more expensive than a stripped car sitting in someone's back yard. The more complete the car, the better. Even if you have to replace sheet metal, which is usually a given, having all the interior parts is a big plus. Even if those parts are available as reproductions, they get expensive and addup quickly. And reproduction quality can be hit or miss.
I would also recommend looking for a coupe with a lot of factory options. It's easier to restore factory A/C, power steering and power brake than it is to install if the car didn't have it originally. Certainly, don't let a low option car get away if it's in particularly nice condition and at a good price. But if a nice, high optioned car is also available, it's worth it to pay a little more for those factory options.
One of the coolest things about classic Mustangs is there were so many variables. The combinations of paint, interior, options and accessories were almost unlimited. You might check out some books like "The Mustang Restoration Handbook". This will give you a good about what was available on the '67 coupes. Then you can decide what paint, interior and options you'd like to look for.
One type of car I would recommend avoiding is what I refer to as the "Shot Rod". That's the car with long shackles or air shocks, big wide tires sticking out beyond the wheel wells, homemade exhaust system, a cut-up trans tunnel with a poorly installed drag racing linkage, etc. You've likely seen such cars and know what I'm talking about. Typically, these cars need even more work than a car that's just worn out.
Also be very careful of I6 Mustangs with V8s installed. There's nothing really wrong with installing a V8 in an I6 Mustang. But most people don't do it correctly, which requires upgrading many components. On the other hand, an I6 Mustang that still has an I6 can be a great car. These Mustangs are much less likely to have suffered the "Shot Rod" fate. And a nicely restored I6 Mustang with an overdrive is a fun and economical classic cruiser.
For $6k you can get a good project car in my neck of the woods.
Example of a current listing in Sacramento:
This is a 1967 A-code mustang coupe, it has a 289 v8 with a edelbrock performer aluminum intake manifold, with a holley 650 cfm double pumper carb, connected to a freshly rebuilt C4 transmission with 200 miles on it and a warranty.
Brakes were freshly done, disc in front drum in rear. New brake hoses, calipers, pads, and rotors. It was recently primered with red DP90, a very nice primer and is ready for the body shop to finish of the
block sanding and squirt it with some color. The tires are practically new.It has power brakes. New gas tank, new sending unit, new fuel pump, new oil pump, new gas lines. All the glass is good, no rock chips. I have a new headliner ready to be put in and all new weather stripping waiting to be put it when it gets painted. The car runs very strong. Brand new racing seat and brand new carpet. interior is almost complete. The car just needs a very minor restore. The rear end has been gone though too. Classic mustangs don't come with a body more straight than this one. I also lowered it 2 inches.
5000 OBO Call or text me for more information-
I got my '68 Coupe from craigslist. It took me about a month of looking to find something good, granted my budget was smaller than yours. Try to look for one that has a straight body and frame, minimal rust, power steering at least (power brakes if you can find for good price) and if you can, one that has a front disc brake conversion.
Also, find a good Mustang shop and buy something there like a shop manual. They almost always have a bulletin board and might even have cars they've worked on for sale. My local shop owner is nice but brutally honest. Works for me. He also knows I won't buy cheap junk so he orders higher quality parts I need. A club and attending local car shows work too. As was said, patience is crucial. Your budget is doable. And you know the car even though it's been some time. You'll find exactly what you want. Ask lots of questions here.
For $6k you can get a good project car in my neck of the woods.
Example of a current listing in Sacramento:
This is a 1967 A-code mustang coupe, it has a 289 v8 with a edelbrock performer aluminum intake manifold, with a holley 650 cfm double pumper carb, connected to a freshly rebuilt C4 transmission with 200 miles on it and a warranty.
Brakes were freshly done, disc in front drum in rear. New brake hoses, calipers, pads, and rotors. It was recently primered with red DP90, a very nice primer and is ready for the body shop to finish of the
block sanding and squirt it with some color. The tires are practically new.It has power brakes. New gas tank, new sending unit, new fuel pump, new oil pump, new gas lines. All the glass is good, no rock chips. I have a new headliner ready to be put in and all new weather stripping waiting to be put it when it gets painted. The car runs very strong. Brand new racing seat and brand new carpet. interior is almost complete. The car just needs a very minor restore. The rear end has been gone though too. Classic mustangs don't come with a body more straight than this one. I also lowered it 2 inches.
5000 OBO Call or text me for more information-
You kidding me? That sounds awesome. Almost too good to be true. Any link to the seller?
Btw way guys thanks so much for the recent info in this thread. It sometimes gets overwhelming since I know there is going to be so much to do and its just me. I away wanted my dad and I to do this project together, but he hates working on cars. Back when I had my 67 in 1991 he didn't enjoy helping, so I know he won't now. I told him I was looking for another mustangs and was why not get an old truck? I was like well dad, I don't want a old truck. Anyways I'm ion my own until I can find a local club.
Indeed, joining a Mustang club is an excellent first step when looking to buy a Mustang. As I always say, it's very likely there's someone in the club selling a Mustang you'd be interested in, or someone in the club knows of a good car for sale.
Also, if you're friendly, and willing to help out with the club, it's likely they'll help scout out and inspect cars. Mustang fans don't like to see people get taken by paying too much for a lousy car. We'd rather help someone find a good car or find as many existing problems as possible before buying.
I think looking for a running/driving car is also a good idea. In my experience, a running/driving car that needs a lot of work isn't any more expensive than a stripped car sitting in someone's back yard. The more complete the car, the better. Even if you have to replace sheet metal, which is usually a given, having all the interior parts is a big plus. Even if those parts are available as reproductions, they get expensive and addup quickly. And reproduction quality can be hit or miss.
I would also recommend looking for a coupe with a lot of factory options. It's easier to restore factory A/C, power steering and power brake than it is to install if the car didn't have it originally. Certainly, don't let a low option car get away if it's in particularly nice condition and at a good price. But if a nice, high optioned car is also available, it's worth it to pay a little more for those factory options.
One of the coolest things about classic Mustangs is there were so many variables. The combinations of paint, interior, options and accessories were almost unlimited. You might check out some books like "The Mustang Restoration Handbook". This will give you a good about what was available on the '67 coupes. Then you can decide what paint, interior and options you'd like to look for.
One type of car I would recommend avoiding is what I refer to as the "Shot Rod". That's the car with long shackles or air shocks, big wide tires sticking out beyond the wheel wells, homemade exhaust system, a cut-up trans tunnel with a poorly installed drag racing linkage, etc. You've likely seen such cars and know what I'm talking about. Typically, these cars need even more work than a car that's just worn out.
Also be very careful of I6 Mustangs with V8s installed. There's nothing really wrong with installing a V8 in an I6 Mustang. But most people don't do it correctly, which requires upgrading many components. On the other hand, an I6 Mustang that still has an I6 can be a great car. These Mustangs are much less likely to have suffered the "Shot Rod" fate. And a nicely restored I6 Mustang with an overdrive is a fun and economical classic cruiser.
Have fun with your search!
Thanks. As far as the options go I really never knew much about the codes. I see people saying a code J 67. I still don't know what that means. I didn't know what mine was either. I just ordered some books so I hope to solve that.
I have seen the "Shot Rod" all over the place through my life. I always wondered why the spring shackles on some of these car where hanging so far down. The rear on my old 67 was dragging its butt and I did put air shocks on it to level it out. It wasn't a "Shot Rod" though I was the 2nd owner at the time and I bought it from a older dude. It was bone stock. It had a 2 tone green interior that I hated. It fact I'm still not a fan of the 67 steering wheel, love the rest though.
Hey guys have had my hands full with my newborn baby girl and haven't had much time to look for my car but right now it's pretty much slim pickings for my budget. Still looking though. There's one for $5900 power bakes and steering and A.C. Says it needs a front end alignment so it's not drivable but runs good. 60 miles from me do you think it's worth the drive?
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New guy here and need some advise about buying a 67 project car.
