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Old 10-21-2012, 01:01 PM   #76 (permalink)
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The inner piece is still on the door he welded it slowly moving around than stopping to blow it off with air to cool it down. Ground it down than test fit to see if needs more weld. Grind the top side than mark your gap and than grind the weld on the edge.
Gotcha! Just build up the edge with the MIG, being careful to keep it cool and not warping the door. Thanks for the tip.

BTW, I was really disappointed to hear they were not going to do the diecast version of your car. I really wanted one.
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Old 10-21-2012, 08:49 PM   #77 (permalink)
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How much of the issues with the hood, doors, and fenders is with the hood, doors, and fenders and how much due to problems with the Dynacorn shell? Are those original Ford hood, doors and fenders or aftermarket? And how much of these issues is due to the car being meticulously built for a high end customer and how would these fitment flaws compare to those on a run-of-the-mill 400,000 made 67 Mustang?

I agree that Dynacorn probably doesnt give a rats petunia as they know these shells are used in high end cars and bought by people with bottomless wallets. Not for Ford Escort owners like me.

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Old 10-22-2012, 08:24 AM   #78 (permalink)
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How much of the issues with the hood, doors, and fenders is with the hood, doors, and fenders and how much due to problems with the Dynacorn shell? Are those original Ford hood, doors and fenders or aftermarket? And how much of these issues is due to the car being meticulously built for a high end customer and how would these fitment flaws compare to those on a run-of-the-mill 400,000 made 67 Mustang?

I agree that Dynacorn probably doesnt give a rats petunia as they know these shells are used in high end cars and bought by people with bottomless wallets. Not for Ford Escort owners like me.

Thanks
Paul
Everything is aftermarket except the quarter louvers we started with nothing.

If you want the shape of the door gap to match the fender you will have to modify aftermarket sheetmetal
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Old 10-22-2012, 09:27 AM   #79 (permalink)
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We went to install the brake pedal and steering column bracket and it would not fit. The dash was installed wrong and had to be moved toward the firewall the bracket was 1" to short from lining up. We compared the distance from the dash to the firewall on my 68 Coupe to determine the dash was in wrong.

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Old 10-22-2012, 11:02 AM   #80 (permalink)
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See thae way I see it is this way

From what I understand, when Fird was building these cars they had a body buck. A perfect representation of a cars shell to check measurements. I believe this became an issue on 67 Shelby's when the car they used as a buck to mold the fiberglass trim had been a test mule and was not 100 percent thus the parts needed heavy sanding to fit. I would bet that in the factory for these shells there is not a reference buck to check measurements. They are building them blind. I know we want everything perfect for our cars but to effectively have anew shell 90-95 percent there is quite an accomplishment. I hear when you buy any sheetmetal it needs fettling so a whole shell is going to need cumulative work
This is a great thread. Peter
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Old 10-23-2012, 08:46 AM   #81 (permalink)
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Something fits with just a little modification

The taillights fit after trimming the rubber seal a little



Once the holes on the fenders were elongated the headlight buckets fit



The amazing thing was after all the work on the door gaps the edge of the hood lined up with both headlight buckets from CJ Pony Parts. The Dynacorn headlight buckets have been on back order for over a month and I was told probably another two months before they would be available so we got them from CJ's. They are a little ripply and will require some blocking but they fit.

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Old 11-30-2012, 09:23 PM   #82 (permalink)
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This is great to see. I am replacing my cowl in my '67 using a Dynacorn bottom. It is off by a 1/2" (to high) in the center. I also bought the cowl side panels, but haven't fit them yet.
Any more updates?
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Old 12-01-2012, 09:30 AM   #83 (permalink)
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Any more updates?
We have been busy installing with a lot of fabrication a period correct looking hood latch and cable with an under the dash release. You will have to wait and read the installation story in an upcoming issue of Modified Mustangs & Fords magazine.
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Old 12-02-2012, 01:22 PM   #84 (permalink)
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We have been working on a couple of things I can't show at this time. A modified lower front valance and a future story in Modified Mustangs & Fords magazine showing a period correct looking hood latch with an under the dash hood release.

But I can show this







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Old 12-02-2012, 03:05 PM   #85 (permalink)
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Mice work!
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Old 12-02-2012, 03:09 PM   #86 (permalink)
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For the noob here Rusty, what were you guys doing to the roof seams in those last pictures?
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Old 12-02-2012, 04:04 PM   #87 (permalink)
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impressive!
I think I wont ever be able to do that smooth grinding on my welds...
I use a flap disc nice and gently, but I tend to take a little bit off the surrounding metal

again, nice work!!
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Old 12-02-2012, 04:16 PM   #88 (permalink)
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For the noob here Rusty, what were you guys doing to the roof seams in those last pictures?
Welding a patch in the area where the factory used lead that so you don't have to use a lot of filler.
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Old 12-02-2012, 04:18 PM   #89 (permalink)
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impressive!
I think I wont ever be able to do that smooth grinding on my welds...
I use a flap disc nice and gently, but I tend to take a little bit off the surrounding metal

again, nice work!!
Brian uses an angle grinder with 50 grit.
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Old 12-02-2012, 07:53 PM   #90 (permalink)
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Welding a patch in the area where the factory used lead that so you don't have to use a lot of filler.
Ah, ok. I'm about to do my rear quarters on my car. I never thought about filling the joint area in with a patch.
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1970 Fastback (to be finished outside as a Boss 302 clone)
393 Windsor AFR 205 heads with 11.5:1 compression
Tremec TKO 5 Speed
Link to my Hub Garage and blog about my car http://www.hubgarage.com/mygarage/maxum96





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