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Old 01-14-2013, 08:13 AM   #106 (permalink)
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Is there a reason you sanded off the e-coat rather than just scuff and spray? Did you have problems with lifted areas?
Would you really want to take a chance with the lowest cost primer a manufacturer could find knowing it is the foundation for what is going to become a $10K paint job?

A few hours and a whole lot of 80 grit on a DA goes a LONG way for an insurance policy.
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Old 01-14-2013, 09:38 AM   #107 (permalink)
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Would you really want to take a chance with the lowest cost primer a manufacturer could find knowing it is the foundation for what is going to become a $10K paint job?

A few hours and a whole lot of 80 grit on a DA goes a LONG way for an insurance policy.
But still, has there been a lot of problems with it? I have personally never had an issue. I don't just scuff with a scotch bright pad though.
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Old 01-14-2013, 10:58 AM   #108 (permalink)
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But still, has there been a lot of problems with it? I have personally never had an issue. I don't just scuff with a scotch bright pad though.
You may have never had an issue and I have never had an issue over bare metal and I'm not going to change how I do it.
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Old 01-14-2013, 11:54 AM   #109 (permalink)
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You may have never had an issue and I have never had an issue over bare metal and I'm not going to change how I do it.
Rusty, I can certainly understand, you are running a business and have
a reputation to keep up, your customer will expect the paint job to hold up.

It would be like someone bringing a car into you that they want painted
over a few coats already on the car, you don't know how well it was done
before so you can't guarantee it.
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Old 01-14-2013, 12:39 PM   #110 (permalink)
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But still, has there been a lot of problems with it? I have personally never had an issue. I don't just scuff with a scotch bright pad though.
I guess that would be a good question for a production shop. I know I took the time to remove mine too.
Back when I was doing this for a living 23+ years ago it was hit and miss on some of the primers that came on body panels. Some would take with just a sanding, others would be back in the shop 6 months later with paint peeling off. We just took a stand on no more shipping primer and started stripping everything that came into the shop.
I guess some of the young bloods in the business these days trust EDP, but I'm old school on this stuff. Give me bare metal for my foundation!
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:10 PM   #111 (permalink)
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You may have never had an issue and I have never had an issue over bare metal and I'm not going to change how I do it.
That's completely understandable. My initial question wasn't meant to question your methodology but rather strictly to find out if you've had problems with eCoat in the past. I understand your hesitation to trust it though.
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:30 PM   #112 (permalink)
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They say the ecoat from Taiwan is not good to paint on because it will make the paint peel off later down the road since it so cheap.
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Old 01-14-2013, 06:22 PM   #113 (permalink)
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When I worked in the bodyshop 20+ years ago, we scotch brighted the underside of things and used a DA on the outer body parts. We never stripped the outside, but made sure it was sanded down well and there was a lot of metal showing.

I'm just asking, that's all.
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:54 AM   #114 (permalink)
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I've stripped the ecoat off a couple parts and found very very light rust lurking underneath. Not alot, just a few small spots, but it was there. Had another part that as soon as the orbital sander hit it, a small sheet of the ecoat fell off the part, clearly wasn't bonded to the metal very well.

The problem is that the ecoat is only as good as the prep applied to the metal before its applied. Some tired overworked factory worker in Taiwan or China does the prep work, are you going to trust him for the foundation of the thousands of $$$ that gets tied up in body and paint work? Not me...
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Old 01-19-2013, 09:36 AM   #115 (permalink)
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The rear valance had a tack weld and also bolts.



Instead of studs on the valance Dynacorn used 2 different size bolts and washers from inside the trunk and attached to clips on the valance



We wanted to take off the rear valance to see what was behind it and just as I thought bare metal and surface rust



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Old 01-19-2013, 10:13 AM   #116 (permalink)
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Rusty, looks like the valance hole on the left side doesn't line up. They actually drilled a hole in the panel to put a bolt thru? What does the back side of the valance look like where the stud should be?
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Old 01-19-2013, 11:35 AM   #117 (permalink)
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Rusty, looks like the valance hole on the left side doesn't line up. They actually drilled a hole in the panel to put a bolt thru? What does the back side of the valance look like where the stud should be?
I never noticed the hole. The back is normal you can use a stud they just had a clip there.
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Old 01-19-2013, 07:19 PM   #118 (permalink)
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Just amazes me with each update that Dynacorn charges so much for these bodies.

It does look like they drilled another hole to make the valance fit.
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Old 01-19-2013, 07:54 PM   #119 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rusty428cj View Post
Instead of studs on the valance Dynacorn used 2 different size bolts and washers from inside the trunk and attached to clips on the valance


Those are just shipping bolts

That sounds like an answer they would give you!
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Old 01-20-2013, 10:54 AM   #120 (permalink)
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We now have a new helper in the shop and he was busy sanding down to bare metal









I sprayed two coats of SPI black epoxy yesterday











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