Oil for a Rebuilt engine - Vintage Mustang Forums
Vintage Mustang Forum
HomeForumGalleryClassifiedsAbout UsAdvertiseContact Us
» Auto Insurance
» Featured Product
Go Back   Vintage Mustang Forums > General Discussion > Vintage Mustang Forum
Vintage-Mustang.com is the premier Ford Mustang Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 08-17-2012, 12:44 PM   #1 (permalink)
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Fort Lauderdale, Fl
Posts: 1
Alert Oil for a Rebuilt engine

I purchased an 1970 mustang with a rebuilt engine on it. The guy told me to put Syntetic oil but the Quicklube guy told me to put 20w50.
What should I do about it?
amejia0310 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 08-17-2012, 01:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 5,185
Default

Ignore the Quicklube guy! If the engine is broken in, which it probably is, I would also recommend synthetic. But it's kind of a personal preference thing. As we often say here, motor oil is like religion!

Whichever oil you run, 5W-30 would be my recommendation. 20W-50 would be for a racing engine built with very "loose" tolerances, for an older engine that's pretty worn out, or for driving across the Nevada desert at 100MPH in August.

For a freshly built engine, you need 5W-30 so the oil can get where it needs to be and do its job.

Lots of people assume what the racers run on the track is also best for the street. This is not the case.
Klutch is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-17-2012, 02:48 PM   #3 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Albany NY
Posts: 728
Default

you may need a ZDDP additive
mustangted1966 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-17-2012, 02:51 PM   #4 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
rumble's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 711
Default

generally, the kids at Drippy Lube don't know what the hell they're talking about
__________________
1968 Fastback GT - 302-4V, C4, original Canadian car
rumble is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-17-2012, 02:51 PM   #5 (permalink)
Supporting Member
Just some guy
 
GypsyR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: SC foothills, USA
Posts: 12,484
Default

Keep in mind that quick lube guys tend to be bottom rung, the guy might have been working at McDonald's last week. You can find knowledgeable people at such places but for close to minimum wage pay it's not likely.
Synthetic is a personal preference. If you like the car enough to not mind spending extra for synthetic then use it. My personal preference on vintage engines is to use a slightly higher viscosity, 10W-30. Especially in the south. 20W-50 is more suitable for racing or an engine that has a whole bunch of miles on it.
GypsyR is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-17-2012, 03:13 PM   #6 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
rumble's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 711
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by GypsyR View Post
Synthetic is a personal preference. If you like the car enough to not mind spending extra for synthetic then use it. My personal preference on vintage engines is to use a slightly higher viscosity, 10W-30. Especially in the south. 20W-50 is more suitable for racing or an engine that has a whole bunch of miles on it.
Well said. I used synthetic for years and I think it was overkill on a street car, especially a fair-weather cruiser. I save my money and change the "dino" oil more frequently instead. I also use 10W30, I think 20W50 is too heavy. Factory owner's manual does call for 30 weight after all.
__________________
1968 Fastback GT - 302-4V, C4, original Canadian car

Last edited by rumble; 08-17-2012 at 03:14 PM. Reason: wording change
rumble is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-17-2012, 03:22 PM   #7 (permalink)
Supporting Member
Senior Member
 
supershifter2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Frum Hear Two Their Eventually
Posts: 6,995
Default

use 10w30 non synthetic valvoline racing oil and some zddp additive.
__________________
supershifter2 < !
supershifter2 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-17-2012, 03:39 PM   #8 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 5,185
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by GypsyR View Post
My personal preference on vintage engines is to use a slightly higher viscosity, 10W-30. Especially in the south. 20W-50 is more suitable for racing or an engine that has a whole bunch of miles on it.
FYI, 10W-30 is effectively the same viscosity as 5W-30. The "5" means it will protect the engine like a 5-weight oil in a cold weather startup. The "10" means it will protect the engine like a 10-weight oil in cold weather. Both will provide the protection of a 30-weight oil at operating temperature. But you're right, in the South, a 10W-30 is fine. Here in Colorado, where I live, I like to have the extra protection of the 5-weight for cold starts when it's below zero degrees.

One advantage to the 10W-30 is the additives will last longer than the 5W-30. It takes more additives to create the wider spread. And the more additives required, the shorter the life of the additives. For any car enthusiast, this isn't typically relevant as we tend to change the oil long before the additives are shot.

Last edited by Klutch; 08-17-2012 at 03:42 PM.
Klutch is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-17-2012, 07:29 PM   #9 (permalink)
Supporting Member
Just some guy
 
GypsyR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: SC foothills, USA
Posts: 12,484
Default

As I vaguely recall from a conversation with a very knowlegeable technical rep from Pennzoil some time back he said about the same thing about the viscosity spread. Simple rule of thumb, less spread the better.
I live a state and a half north of the OP and they don't know the meaning of zero degrees around here.
BTW, 20W-50 happens to be the factory recommended "thin" winter oil for my old motorcycle. :0
GypsyR is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-17-2012, 07:50 PM   #10 (permalink)
Banned
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: California
Posts: 3,830
Default

To start with, all oil today is a synthetic base, so it is really one of personal opinion if you want or have the desire to buy/spend $ for "full" synthetic. For a break-in oil, check with your machinist or local supplier as syn in a "new" engine really slows down the ability of the rings to fully seat....delays up to 1000 miles and typically you can locate a straight weight oil (30w) which will meet your initial requirements. After the initial break-in period (typically 300-500 miles), unless otherwise stipulated, i would run a 0-30w or 5-30w oil, that should suffice for most climates up to 100 degrees....and yes, after break-in, add 1 botle of ZDDP to the oil.
beechkid is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-17-2012, 08:21 PM   #11 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
NEFaurora's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Melbourne, FL
Posts: 3,945
Send a message via AIM to NEFaurora
Default

"you may need a ZDDP additive"

+1000 !!

Basically, The EPA has screwed up everything...

Only two brands that I would even trust today are Valvoline, and Royal Purple... Nothing else... Just because it may say "Synthetic"...means absolutely nothing today....like it did years ago. Oil is completely different today than it was even two years ago..

You need an oil with ZDDP.. Valvoline Racing oil and Royal Purple have it.

No others do..

As far as I am concerned, All the others suck.. Stay away from them.

What you can do is buy ZDDP additives, and add them everytime you change the oil, and just use regular engine oil.. Royal Purple, and Don Garlits of Drag racing fame sell ZDDP additves, and I highly recommend them if you are using off the shelf engine oil... This is what the EPA has done to the basic car owner.
Without ZDDP, You will wear out your CAM and other engine parts bigtime....especially if you have a performance engine. Your typical car owner and guy behind the counter at the autoparts store are totally oblivious to this...and probably will not know what you are talking about and think you're from MARS if you bring up the subject..

I used to be a die-hard Pennzoil and Castrol user... Not anymore since all of this BS happened with the EPA intervening into Store Brand engine oil..
__________________


Tony Kovar
Melbourne, FL (Formerly from Long Island, NY!)

1965 Mustang Convertible 200cid I6, 3spd Manual
1966 Mustang Sprint 200 Registry Owner/Moderator
1966 Mustang Sprint 200 Convertible 200cid I6, C4 Auto
2007 Mustang V6 Convertible w/ Pony Package
MCA#70001

Last edited by NEFaurora; 08-17-2012 at 08:33 PM.
NEFaurora is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Vintage Mustang Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:44 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.3.2 ©2009, Crawlability, Inc.