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Old 08-30-2012, 12:10 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Toploader hurst shifter and shifter kit

Trying to replace the shifter and shifter rails on my toploader. I am planning to use the hurst brand. Toploader pic and info I've included. The toploader came out from a mustang. The question: Is this the right part number for the parts #13-0072? You can't choose a knob though. I was going for the classic black knob. Thanks.
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Old 08-30-2012, 12:38 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Looks like the same shifter I have on my 66 w/ toploader.






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Old 08-30-2012, 12:43 PM   #3 (permalink)
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silverblue: Thanks for the info. I know mine is a 68. But did you have any problems with the kit (fit issues etc.). And is the product number correct?

PS: The tip of the shift rails are those custom made or part of the kit?
http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/s..._0110Large.jpg
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Old 08-30-2012, 02:15 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I had to add some spacers to mine to get it to shift smoothly.

'65 Coupe 351w - Page 8
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Old 08-30-2012, 06:39 PM   #5 (permalink)
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ohh man. its a 400 dollar system that doesn't work. i might as well use the old one.
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Old 08-30-2012, 08:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I have a 3 speed top loader with a hurst shifter. Had initial trouble getting linkage set right, as there are few pics and even worse instructions. Linkage is still loose and gets locked if I try a speed shift. I'll work on that this winter during rainy season. I'm not sure about PNs
Good luck on your install.
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Old 08-31-2012, 04:33 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I think you need this 3913180 Mustang Hurst Shifter Competition Plus With Knob 4-Speed 1965-1973 | CJ Pony Parts and this 3735587 Mustang Hurst Shifter Mounting Kit Competition Plus Toploader Big Block V8 1967-1969 | CJ Pony Parts

Once installed its a breeze to adjust. Insert the pin to make sure the shifter is in neutral, put the trans arms (levers) in neutral and adjust the rods. No big deal.

I think what you are calling "shift rails" are actually the shifter "rods". The "rails" are internal parts in the trans.

Joe
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Old 08-31-2012, 09:44 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slhstang View Post
I have a 3 speed top loader with a hurst shifter. Had initial trouble getting linkage set right, as there are few pics and even worse instructions. Linkage is still loose and gets locked if I try a speed shift. I'll work on that this winter during rainy season. I'm not sure about PNs
Good luck on your install.
I have a Hurst 3 speed on my 65. I also have the orginal instructions that came in the kit. It's a Hurst Syncro/Loc # 290-6111 I got it new in the box old stock (1969) off Ebay. I had no problems with the install except I had to cut about 1/2" off one end of the shift rod after I had them adjusted to clear the e-brake lever. Shifts perfect like a Hurst should. I don't have access to a scaner but I could take a photo of the instructions and post them here for you if you think they might help.

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Old 08-31-2012, 12:18 PM   #9 (permalink)
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jmd: You're right. I was talking about the shifter rods. Sorry. Have you had any experience with the product? What is the big difference between the small block kit and the big block kit (other than the fact its say small block or big block application)? Something to do with mounting location? Also, is it a big difference (feel, performance, etc) between hurst and the original shifter kit (that i still have)? Thank you for the link.
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Old 08-31-2012, 02:24 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zhlange View Post
jmd: You're right. I was talking about the shifter rods. Sorry. Have you had any experience with the product? What is the big difference between the small block kit and the big block kit (other than the fact its say small block or big block application)? Something to do with mounting location? Also, is it a big difference (feel, performance, etc) between hurst and the original shifter kit (that i still have)? Thank you for the link.
I have a Hurst shifter on my 65 Comet with Toploader 4 speed. I like the way it shifts and it feels absolutely solid. You cannot go wrong with a Hurst shifter.
I used a Hurst instead of the factory shifter because the 65 Comet factory 4 speed shifter is about impossible to find. The Hurst is available and replacement parts can be found. If you have the factory shifter disassemble and clean it up and use it. If it feels sloppy then get a Hurst.
BTW, disassemble a Hurst and a factory shifter and youll see why the Hurst is a performance upgrade.
Not sure the difference between big and small block shifters on the Mustang.

Joe
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Old 08-31-2012, 04:03 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Just an observation. My experience with Hurst shifters is limited to '71 to '73 cars. The shifter mechanism in your pictures seems to be rotated clockwise a considerable degree. The ones I have worked on, all had the levers to which the rods attach pointing straight down when in the neutral position. Are you sure the shifter is mounted correctly?

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Old 08-31-2012, 04:13 PM   #12 (permalink)
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jmd66fb: Ok thanks. I will keep that in mind because everything is intact with my original shifter.

BTW, I ordered a rebuild kit from toploader heaven. It should arrive next week. Mark has been very accommodating so far. Kinda excited and scared of the unknown because I've never rebuilt any machinery before.

Also, there is a small chip/grind on one of the second gear teeth. Do you think I should replace it? It worked fine before I pulled it out.
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Old 08-31-2012, 04:40 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zhlange View Post

PS: The tip of the shift rails are those custom made or part of the kit?
http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/s..._0110Large.jpg
I added the heim end links myself. It makes for a very nice, smooth, solid shift. Gets rid of the slop associated with the stock plastic bushing with that spring clamp.
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Old 08-31-2012, 04:44 PM   #14 (permalink)
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silverblue: Thank you for sharing. Can I buy those in a regular auto shop? I'm planning to that upgrade. It looks more sturdy.
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