The battery is at least 2 years old because it was on there when I got the car. Its an optima. Yep, this all of a sudden just started happening. I don't think this would be the issue because it didn't have these problems from the start, but I am using one location for a couple of ground leads. They are secure though.
Excellent point, but this sounds like something that has just started out of the blue. Unless he just installed UD pulleys.
I've got them on my '95 and I lose my dash lights (LED) at traffic lights.
But it could be a sign of a cell going out in his battery. On another forum I'm a member of a guy has a Chrysler minivan that started acting up. I told him to replace his battery, and that fixed his ECM issues.
No, I was leaning more towards the battery with the coming of cold weather. I just mentioned the underdrives as I do get a slight drop in voltage at idle when the fan kicks on.
The battery is at least 2 years old because it was on there when I got the car. Its an optima. Yep, this all of a sudden just started happening. I don't think this would be the issue because it didn't have these problems from the start, but I am using one location for a couple of ground leads. They are secure though.
OK, remove the bolt holding them in place and take a wire brush to everything. tight or not, corrosion can be unseen and slowly build up over time.
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1995 GT convertible - Laser Red
1995 GT convertible - Black (Son's ride)
1966 GT Fastback under restoration- Code T Red
with White LeMans stripes.
Use your volt meter and check A/C voltage across the battery terminals when the fan is on. EEC IV fords had a problem where the diodes in the alternator would leak A/C voltage and it really can wreak havock on ignition and injection systems (if there is one). i will look for the speck of allowable leakage. Also have you adjusted your idle mixture for the colder temps and air of winter?? had to reset mine just last week. Just my .02
Do you have EFI? Even though your harness has taps for a cooling fan what circuits are used? Obviously you have a relay in the system to supply clean, battery voltage to the fan and a coolant temperature sensor to switch the relay on and off, but is there an ignition system component too? If you have ignition voltage going through the temp sender to the relay then remember that you have an open circuit until the temp sender switches, then you're completing the circuit TO GROUND to charge an electromagnet to complete the connection in the relay. If this feed is being shared with an ignition component then the voltage drop can wreak havoc with your electronic ignition components.
I don't have efi. The AAW kit came with a dedicated ignition wire and fan wire. I am using a pertronix II distributor and no msd box or anything. Also a one wire alt. I did not have this issue when I first installed the fan, switch and relay. Ran fine for months. Just in the past month or so it started acting like this. I have not adjusted my a/f screws but honestly it is still in the 60s and 70s here when I drive my car. I still need to check the grounds tonight as previously mentioned.
I have never had an issue with the car starting or anything. It sits for a week at a time before its started and driven.....fires right up.
Same here. But replacing the battery made a difference all the same. Not saying that this is definitely the problem but a battery check is free at most places.
Same here. But replacing the battery made a difference all the same. Not saying that this is definitely the problem but a battery check is free at most places.
I might swing by an autozone and have them test it tonight.
2 things, 1 if your using the stock style starter solenoid, make sure it's grounded good. and 2, additional ground strap/cable doesn't hurt. i run a cable from the batt. to the chassis and 2 different cables from the chassis to the block. good luck
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