IF its heat soak why does it start right back up after stalling? Wouldn't it be a booger to start until it cools? I had a similar prob on my vert- (it still has heat soak probs) but the issue was it cut off like a switch- very intermittant-but one day while tinkering around I touched the coil wire -the battery/and the point wire- anyway there was a small area inside the wire (bulging ever so slightly) when this was touched/wiggled etc it broke the point signal and cut off. Repair was as easy as the underhood wiring harness (on mine it was the coil, water temp, and alt IIRC) from NPD- never happened again. As others stated coils fail when hot as do condensers. From what I know-if it is heat soak/vapor lock- a 1 inch spacer (wood or plastic) will fix pretty easily
Doesn't have to be alum, steel will do, but alum will not rust as easy. Larger is better, and you can bend it so that the hot air has a way around the carb.
Have you even tried the cheapest/easiest test like bartl suggested in post #10 with the clips on the fuel line?
I have a 87 Dodge truck with a 318 that started vapor locking. I put 4 old wooden clothes pins on the fuel line between the pump and carb. It cured it immediately. That was a couple years ago, and I hate to admit, the clothes pins are still there. Took me 10 seconds and cost maybe 5 cents?
At least try it. You don't have to leave them there like I did, but it may narrow down your problem. I know you have your line insulated, but you may need a heat sink instead. Just my 2c
Have you even tried the cheapest/easiest test like bartl suggested in post #10 with the clips on the fuel line?
I have a 87 Dodge truck with a 318 that started vapor locking. I put 4 old wooden clothes pins on the fuel line between the pump and carb. It cured it immediately. That was a couple years ago, and I hate to admit, the clothes pins are still there. Took me 10 seconds and cost maybe 5 cents?
At least try it. You don't have to leave them there like I did, but it may narrow down your problem. I know you have your line insulated, but you may need a heat sink instead. Just my 2c
I'm not sure how wooden clothes pins would help. I think the post before was to dissipate heat. Kinda like what we put on top of a cpu. Cooling the fuel before it reaches the carb will have a small effect.
They sell a 'cool can' for HiPo cars, it runs a copper tube thru a can that you fill with ice before a race. You can also use a power steering cooler (short tube with fins) to cool the fuel, but the problem is the carb is still just as hot.
My solution cools the carb by diverting the source of the heat away from the carb. The heat comes from two sources: 1. direct contact 2. hot air Remove these and the problem is solved.
Imagine you have a hot pan on the stove, you can put in colder water or even ice, or you could remove the pan from the stove and block it from the source of heat.
I was confused as to what the heat shield needed to look like but the link your provided cleared that up. I wish I could buy one that was pre-made because that would make it easier.
Most people have said that a 1" phenolic spacer solved their problem so I think I am going to try that first.
I don't know if anyone make a ready-made for our engines/carb setup. If you have a drill or can borrow one, a cheap hole saw from Harbor Freight can be used to drill a hole for the carb. A regular drill bit should do the holes for the carb studs.
It doesn't need to be perfect and you can hammer it flat so it won't leak. You can also glue on that heat mat or get alum duct tape.
I think Home Depot sells alum duct tape that's used on home vents.
One other option is to just run a wire around the fuel line and use that wire to hold a metal plate under the carb's fuel bowl. In other words, take a sheet of metal and two pieces of wire. Wire tie the sheet of metal on the fuel line at two points, then bend the metal to go under the fuel bowl. It doesn't have to bolt under the carb to work.
I am hoping someone on this forum can help me. A month ago I purchased a 65 Mustang Coupe with Automatic transmission and the I6 200.
Since day 1, it stalls on me after driving for about 20-30 minutes. It runs great before that but after the stock temperature gage shows half it will stall when I stop. It acts like I switched off the ignition when it stalls. It will immediately start back up.
I have replaced the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, ignition coil, fuel pump. fuel filter and have insulated the metal fuel line that runs from the pump to the carburetor.
I have also tried (2) bottles of Gumout. I have also used an entire bottle of Carburetor Cleaner. I have thought about purchasing a reman carburetor but I hate to spend that much money and that not be the problem. I have even adjusted the idle and AF mixture but that hasn't solved the problem.
Also, can anyone identify which carburetor this is? It has a sticker on it that says remanufactured by Holley but I can't determine which model it is. It also says Mfd by Carter for Motorcraft.
Does anyone have any ideas what could be causing this? It's driving me insane!!
Happen to me once, same issued. The ignition coil was going, I would have a spark testing tool so next time it stall see if you get spark.
I have replaced the ignition coil and condenser. This is without a doubt a vapor lock problem as I have watched the gas in the carburetor bowl boil.
I dont know if you have it like the 2v carbs but make sure you replace your fuel filter. I installed a clear fuel filter and the fuel always appears to boil in my case. But it doesnt lock up for me.
I have replaced the ignition coil and condenser. This is without a doubt a vapor lock problem as I have watched the gas in the carburetor bowl boil.
Like I alluded to maybe earlier or in another post....they didn't do this back in the '60's unless you were out in stop and go driving at very high ambient temperatures. There should be sufficient airflow in and around the engine to move the hot air. I think you'll find a combination of poor quality fuel, late ignition timing and lean fuel mixture is generating excessive heat in the exhaust manifold which is baking the intake and carb. Remember that in '78 (the era of your carb), everything was calibrated for lean mixtures for fuel economy and your distributor's advance curve may not be able to compensate properly.
As a stop-gap, one suggestion that has NOT been proposed would be to mount a 12V blower motor to the fender apron and run some duct hose to the area.
Location: Vero Beach, FL but currently live in Korea
Posts: 1,211
Did you ever check to see it the diaphram in the vacuum advance on your distributor was ruptured or not? That could cause the engine timing not advancing properly and running excessively hot.
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