I am hoping someone on this forum can help me. A month ago I purchased a 65 Mustang Coupe with Automatic transmission and the I6 200.
Since day 1, it stalls on me after driving for about 20-30 minutes. It runs great before that but after the stock temperature gage shows half it will stall when I stop. It acts like I switched off the ignition when it stalls. It will immediately start back up.
I have replaced the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, ignition coil, fuel pump. fuel filter and have insulated the metal fuel line that runs from the pump to the carburetor.
I have also tried (2) bottles of Gumout. I have also used an entire bottle of Carburetor Cleaner. I have thought about purchasing a reman carburetor but I hate to spend that much money and that not be the problem. I have even adjusted the idle and AF mixture but that hasn't solved the problem.
Also, can anyone identify which carburetor this is? It has a sticker on it that says remanufactured by Holley but I can't determine which model it is. It also says Mfd by Carter for Motorcraft.
Does anyone have any ideas what could be causing this? It's driving me insane!!
Does it have anything to do with what appears to be a broken off PCV hose at the front right of the carburetor? Looks like a stub of vacuum hose held on the nipple by a zip tie.
I think have the same problem and have the same engine/tranny setup. Mine will stop stalling once I've driven a while. The carb sits on top of the exhaust and is all cast iron. There is a lot of heat there.
You should have a coolant adapter between the carb and the intake. This allows coolant to flow under the carb to help with temp control.
IIRC, Fuel boils at about 145F, so you could be boiling the fuel.
One pretty easy solution is to put a heat block plate under the carb. Take a sheet of alum, drill holes to match the carb base, install under the carb with most of the area being under the fuel bowl.
Many cars came stock with these, and the old 280zx actually uses a fan to blow cool air onto the intake (which is also above the exhaust)
I have some old dual SU's on one car, I had to make an alum with spacers to keep the carbs from boiling.
You can also layer the alum sheet with washers to make an air gap, this will help to keep the heat off the carb.
Does the car continue to stall if you drive down the freeway for a while?
So you are saying that what sounds like it happening is that the fuel is boiling?
What about going to the hardware store and getting them to cut me out a block of wood to put under the carb? Wouldn't this be better than aluminum?
I haven't removed the carburetor but if you look at this picture, it looks like there is a metal spacer under the carburetor?? I dunno much about carburetors though so I could be wrong.
All I know is this problem is driving me crazy!
No, once I start driving again and the engine cools back down the stalling stops. However, once I am stopped for about 10 minutes and the temperate rises, the car will again stall.
I just called Holley technical support since this is one of their reman carbs.
I gave him the numbers on the side and he said that this is a Carter YFA
That would explain why it says MFD. By Carter For Motorcraft.
There should be a spacer under the carb that has your vacuum bung as well as a heater hose inlet and outlet. You don't want to remove or insulate that as it's there to add heat to the manifold to prevent cold weather driveability problems.
Since the problem is heat related the first thing to assume is that it's "vapor lock". Vapor lock occurs when the temperature of the fuel reaches the point where is "boils" and turns from a liquid to a gas. The expansion causes a bubble which prevents fuel from entering the carburetor properly so there is insufficient fuel in the float bowl. Vapor lock has been made more prevalent due to ethanol and methanol additives in the fuel which vaporize at an even lower point than gasoline.
There are a couple solutions.... The first one I'd try is replacing the rubber fuel line hose you currently have going to the carburetor with a hard line. Being a '65 you should have a fuel filter canister on the bottom of the fuel pump but if not, add one as close to the pump as possible to keep it away from the heat. The steel line will dissipate the heat much better than the rubber. You can also add an insulating sleeve over the hard line or use a couple dozen metal butterfly clips (see below) clamped on the line as heat sinks.
I just replaced the fuel line the other day with a metal line that runs directly from the fuel pump to the carburetor. I did have to add a small piece of rubber hose (about 4 inches long) from the end of that metal line so I could connect the clear fuel filter that attaches directly to the carburetor. I have also insulated the line.
Can someone help me figure this out. I was told today by Holley that my remanufactured carburetor is a Carter YFA.
Now what confuses me is is this article on Mustang monthly which says that Carter didn't come equipped on Mustang's until 68.
I also read that the Carter YF will not work on the Load-O-Matic distributor since it doesn't have the spark control valve. So why would a previous owner have put this on my engine?
I took a picture of the distributor. Is this a Load-O-Matic?
Also, does anyone know if the phenolic spacer for a Autolite 1100 or Holley 1940 is the same dimensions as the Carter YFA? I'm thinking about trying that next to solve my problem unless anyone has a better idea?
Stalling after 20 to 30 minutes, then restarting after several minutes is a classic symptom of a bad coil in the world of classic tractors. I don't know if a coil for a mid 60s Mustang is much different from the coil of my 1950s Ford tractor (I suspect not too much difference) but the coils have a tar base that can overheat and melt. Once it cools somewhat it solidifies and is good to go again... for a while. A new coil will fix it quickly.
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65 Mustang stalling when hot
