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Old 11-03-2012, 10:06 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Question DIY bump steer kit anyone done this?, is it worth it?

Anybody ever made their own for a 69 mustang??

is it worth it? on a mech steer

If you drill out the spindle so a traditional grade 8 bolt will fit


Mustangsplus.com | Mustang Parts :: Steering :: Bump Steer Corrector Kits :: 1967-69 Bump Steer Corrector Kit

Mustangsplus.com | Mustang Parts :: Steering :: Bump Steer Corrector Kits :: 1967-69 Total Control Bump Steer Kit

http://www.globalwest.net/adj43.html


will a pinto will work?

Adjustable Tie-Rod Adapter Stud to Heim - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
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Old 11-03-2012, 10:41 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I used the speedway parts you linked to. They fit the 70 spindles I put in my 66 perfectly. I would avoid drilling out the taper in the spindle if at all possible.
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Old 11-03-2012, 11:45 AM   #3 (permalink)
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the pinto ones?

what heim or part list did you use?

is there a DIY guide?
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tweet66 View Post
I used the speedway parts you linked to. They fit the 70 spindles I put in my 66 perfectly. I would avoid drilling out the taper in the spindle if at all possible.
Pin taper in a spindle's steering arm that has been drilled out can be fixed at a later
date by fill welding and re-drilling with a taper drill bit. By no means would the modded
spindles be boat anchors.....

I'd be more concerned with putting something non-tapered (like a bolt) into the
steering arm and then driving down the road. Just asking for trouble. Doesn't
matter how much torque is on a bolt in that location, there WILL BE AN ISSUE
eventually.

Chrome Moly's failure mode is to snap. I don't know how much trust I'd put in that
material, at that location. Pinto taper is not the Mustang's tie rod taper. "GM"
taper is also not right for Mustang tie rods. (This is all in reference to the piece
from Speedway)


ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
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Old 11-03-2012, 12:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Since I went DIY rack and pinion, I used the tapers similar to what you posted, except I bought them from steeroids. They sold just the spindle adapters. NOt sure if they just do.

Then I used rod ends.
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Old 11-03-2012, 01:09 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyK View Post
Since I went DIY rack and pinion, I used the tapers similar to what you posted, except I bought them from steeroids. They sold just the spindle adapters. NOt sure if they just do.

Then I used rod ends.


can you show me some links?

haw did U align




Quote:
Originally Posted by GT289 View Post
Pin taper in a spindle's ......


ex-Global West GM
1991-1995


so the best option would be?
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Last edited by juit; 11-03-2012 at 01:16 PM.
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Old 11-03-2012, 06:15 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I would NOT drill the taper from the OE spindle. The taper, along with the castellated nut and cotter pin, is what secures everything and keeps it from loosening. Simply running a bolt through and using a jamb nut gives you no guarantee that movement won't loosen things up and it doesn't take much movement to overstress the bolt to where it will snap. If you really need to correct the bumpsteer than any of the adapters to fit the tapered hole should be fine. The threads on the rod ends must match (left-hand or right-hand) the OE tie rod ends. Alignment is done the same way by spinning the sleeve to lengthen or shorten the overall tie rod. The BEST bumpsteer "adapter" if you're building your own suspension with R & P is to put the rack in direct line with the steering arm as it would be in normal loaded position.
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Old 11-03-2012, 10:50 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GT289 View Post
... Pinto taper is not the Mustang's tie rod taper. "GM"
taper is also not right for Mustang tie rods. (This is all in reference to the piece
from Speedway)...

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
I used Dykum on the Pinto pins put them in my spindles and spun them around while seating them. When I removed the pins I had near perfect cleaning of the material on both sides.. Are my spindles modified?? Who knows it's a possibility.

juit, Speedway has 11/16" threaded rod ends with 5/8" holes that thread right into the stock adjuster sleeve and fit the Pinto pins.
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:38 AM   #9 (permalink)
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female or male? rh lh? 11/16" threaded rod ends with 5/8" holes
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Standa...ole,36045.html
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Standa...Hole,9803.html

can you put some pics of your set up?




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short 96 headers flowmaster with X pipe
planning a DIY subframe & track bars


Last edited by juit; 11-04-2012 at 07:52 AM.
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Old 11-04-2012, 01:48 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Either one will work. I used left hand threads since that's what fit my stock adjuster sleeves. I can get some pix later today.
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Old 11-04-2012, 05:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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that would be awesome the car has to be aligned again?
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Old 12-01-2012, 09:53 PM   #12 (permalink)
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anyone bought the bumpsteer motorsports clone kit sold on ebay? it was in 150 bucks if the guy who bought it is it worth the cash??

it was listed for less than a day and they was snatched from my hands beating my best offer price
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Old 12-03-2012, 12:56 AM   #13 (permalink)
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juit, sorry it took so long to get the pix. Honestly, I forgot until tonight when I was lying under the car and looked at the front suspension....
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File Type: jpg bump steer2.jpg (92.3 KB, 37 views)
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Old 12-03-2012, 01:38 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I think the Pinto taper on those Speedway pins will fit a 65-66 spindle. The GM pin will fit a '67-'70. I'm running the GM pins on my '68.
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Old 12-03-2012, 10:14 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I have a 69

tweet66 did you have to alter them for disc setup? I have drums on mine
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