About twice a year I try to remember to spray down my carburetors with carb cleaner. The last step is to spray into the carburetor with the engine idling. Too much and the engine will sputter and die. Spray, let run, spray, etc. Bartl is saying to spray some oil into the carb easy at first then spray heavily until the engine dies. Easy. If you spray while the engine is running your oil will mostly burn off. Loading until it dies means there is an oil film on everything. This is the (smartass) cheater's method of "fogging" the engine. The hard way would be to remove every spark plug and spray directly into cylinders. Which doesn't quite give you the fog effect, as most of the oil just sprays on top of the pistons.
I had pure water in my '67 until yesterday. I drained it and added the antifreeze I had laid out so I would trip over the last month or so. Since my tank is already drained I used an old lawnmower gas tank hooked the fuel pump. I ran about a half gallon of gas through so the engine could warm up completely and ran it until it ran out of gas. The gasoline these days I won't leave in anything over two months that is sitting up. I used to use Stabil and it was OK for six months or so. I've had enough trouble with ethanol fuel boogering stuff up the last few years I just don't even try to store gas anymore.
eveyone has their own way. no way is right or wrong. once i knew a guy who would slowly pour motor oil into the carb until the motor stalled.
another bird brain i knew pulled the plugs and squirt in oil
my rule of thumb is anything over a year drain the tank. the carb bowl will evaporate onits own.
Ive left cars for 8 months at a pop during my navy days with doing nothing but taking out the bat. once i got the bowls full she always fired right up and ran fine.
the only issue i had with leaving cars for any lenght of time was with Holley carbs. the meter blocks tended to gum up and they needed a soaking to get it going.
but with stock AL carbs you wont have that prob.
3 yrs ago I made the mistate of filling my tank in the 93. she still got a 1/4 tank left as of today and it runs fine. but i did add some stabil after the first 6 months once i had realized what i did.
1970 Mach 1 San Jose built Dec 23 1969. Marti says 1 of 7. Purchased in 1987. Original family owner of the powertrain 351C 2v FMX.
1993 GT 11,000 miles, Built 2-12-93 Auto, 3:27 Axle, cloth, sunroof. Untouched except for rubber and battery, Purchased new 8-3-93. still has the factory windshield fluid and new car smell.
Honestly, I think it's all a bunch of whoie either way.
I've taken my car off the road for 6 months every year. At first I was anal about emptying the tank. Then I got lazy one year and realized nothing happened. So I got progressively lazier. I've had it full, empty and probably every possible iteration between the two. Only thing that ever mattered was the battery. If i left it hooked up, it would be dead. If I unhooked it it was fine.
For me, what is far more important is priming the oil system after it's been siting. What I usually do is squirt each cylinder with Marvel and hand turn the engine a few times. Then I'll disconnect the ignition and crank the car for 20-30 seconds to start priming the oil pump and getting the valve gallery lubed up. Then I'd hook the ignition back up and fire the car up. Never had the car not start with 30 seconds doing it this way. Would smoke a little for the first minute or two, but oh well...once I got it warmed up and checked the tune no more smoke the rest of the season.
My only advice is to buy gas from a high volume dealer. You don't want to risk getting some water in your fuel (had that on my volvo once, but that was daily driven). Also, never had issues with the 10% ethanol blends in my mustang sitting. I say that because I've had disastrous results with the blends on marine outboards, but that has to do with the proximity to water. Just to be safe, I do put a fuel stabilizer in now after I know I"m not driving it.
IE-Ethanol Gas/fuel stabilizers-- here's a little test i started about 4 months ago. Just to see what i might find out about what brand of stabilizer works best in ethanol gas after sitting over a period of time. I used Sea-Foam, Sierra Marine, Star Brite, CRC Marine, Sta-Bil Marine and Sta-Bil. Mixed to the recommended ratio and put in the glass jars as seen. Ask why--when starting my Merc. up this spring after sitting about 7 months the thing ran like crap. Ran excellent when parked. Took apart Carb, rebuilt it and now runs fine. So just thought it would be interesting to see what happens to this junkass gas sitting over time. Lids on jars are not tight to allow for evaporation like it would in a carb. Wish i would of dropped a couple rubber O rings down in the jars to see how each mixture effects them. Only thing I've noticed of course is some evaporation so far.... I'll give it a few more months and see what happens..Like to see which one's evaporates the fastest, jells up more, etc. Pic above was taken 7/23/12 just before i lowered all the gas in jars to the bottom of the labels as would be about the amount in a carb bowl. Disclaimer--this is my own hillbilly test and not endorsing or disclaming any of the products mentioned above---
Mildly built 302, 4 speed, 3.40 gears. 6 pt. cage.
Narrow rear. Pro-Stars-15X7'' & 15X10'' on rear.
Lowered 1'' all around. www.usedmustangparts.net
A guy that writes for "The Horse Backstreet choppers" did a test like that with metal bolts in the jars, it was a convincing article. I will not run this crappy corn enhanced gas while going down the road without it being stabilized. I run all stainless lines, but the carb body, inner workings and sending unit o-rings will deteriorate.
Local radio show had a guy on last summer trying to debunk (spin the truth) the ethanol gas additive issues. He had no answer when someone called up and asked why they get 50 more miles to a tank full with non ethanol gas. He had no answer as to why boat owners had to have carbs rebuilt every spring. Kept saying things along the lines of "well, there must have been an underlying issue...."
1966 GT Fastback, restoration almost there! Code T Red with White LeMans stripes.
2015 GT Fastback - Deep Impact Blue
I agree about the economy issue...I get 10% less now than before on the same cars. oddly the same percentage as ethanol in my fuel. I am in no way a proponent of Ethanol fuels. My new cars are E85 compatible but I won't touch it. That has to do more with the fact that my $$/mi goes up 25-30% on E85 as opposed to regular unleaded. Ethanol is heavy leaded with political pork to keep knocking down.
I've dealt first hand with the marine issue in my job. That's directly attributed to the fact that marine engines are in high humidity environments and routinely sit for 3-4 weeks at a time. Took us about 4 fuel system rebuilds (these were EFI engines) before we figured it out.
But on the same issue, was doing a biodiesel conversion test on some marine vessels. We submerged normal fuel o-rings and hoses in biodiesel for 6 months and there was no visible damage. The boat has been running biodiesel for 3 years now without a single fuel system failure.
I've been running 10% ethanol in my mustang for the last 3-4 years, at 8k miles per year and have never had a problem with my Holley 4V carb, and I've let it sit for 5-6 months at a time. I've honestly never put stabilizer in my fuel tanks. on my small 2 stroke lawn equipment, I run them dry at the end of the season. I don't want my snow blower not to start when I need it for the first snow. I guess I'm less concerned with my car since if it doesn't start, I'll just hop into my normal driver and go.
Maybe I was lucky, but my point is this whole debate about tanks empty, full, etc...is all anecdotal based on some personal experience (which may be based on a number of contributing factors) or hearsay. My personal experience is my car has never failed to start no matter what I do with the tank over the winter. I was concerned about running ethanol fuels but have yet to see problems.
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