Just thought I'd throw this out there. I was also interested in the Bass Link, but wondered about the sound from that type of design and the price was a deal breaker. I found this little unit discussed in some space concious audio threads, and was surprised by the quality & quantity of sound from such a compact design...
I am no audiophile, but do know the 'Boss' brand is probably what you'd find for sale at Pep Boys or Costco as a generic 'car audio system'. I picked this up as an experiment for less than a $100 refurb'd unit...may be be the one decent component they make?...cause I've found no reason to upgrade yet. If I did I'd put a powered bazooka under the package tray of my coupe...obviously not an option for a vert. It's got a cool little remote located gain knob, and puts out plenty of bass for me...again no audiophile. I'm sure the quality of mid & low range would be better with a less compact design, but a good little unit for the space concious.
The car, well ANY car .. is a very difficult place to accurately reproduce music, and is basically a giant compromise with severely diminishing returns with the more $$$ you spend.
To the OP: Verts are difficult and require power to overcome the road and wind noise. If you are not overly concerned with adding real sub frequencies to your system, you may be better served doing a little rewiring of your existing speakers and adding a nice 4x100 watt amp. Something like the PDX line from Alpine or the mini line from Arc Audio. Very few speakers are ever damaged from being over powered, they are damaged from distortion. Your typical headunit may say it is 4x50w, but in reality it sends out about 8 clean watts per channel, about 10w pretty distorted, and about 10 more heavily distorted watts. Make sure you have crossover's for both channels, and set them up at minimum 60hz rolloff, with as steep a slope as possible. Most amps are either 12 or18bd (common) or 24 dbs (rare). I believe that you may be very pleasantly surprised by what your existing speakers are capable of when given some power.
Feel free to PM me with any questions. I have been installing and tuning audio systems in cars for 20+ years, its one of my main hobbies (behind cars)
G'luck
Fej
Many of us vert owners (7 in 50 years) are very familiar with getting tunes in a vert with the top down at 75 mph! Seems like chairwriter has come up with a decent system for his Mustang vert. Just got back from a 10,000 mile cross country cruise!
__________________
My '64 1/2 vert. Ordered May '64. D code 4 speed, handling package, caspian blue, accent group, Ford blue manual top.
'68 vert. driver. Owned since '77. C code AT, AC, PS, P disc B, PT lime gold, standard black interior and top. NOS RF fender and left quarter.New top and folding glass.
Many of us vert owners (7 in 50 years) are very familiar with getting tunes in a vert with the top down at 75 mph! Seems like chairwriter has come up with a decent system for his Mustang vert. Just got back from a 10,000 mile cross country cruise!
Yep, I figure if he was happy with it for that drive then it is certainly worht a try for us--I know there is better out there but it sounds like that might be just what we are looking for.
Here's what the Bazooka BT subwoofer looks like in a 67 convertible trunk. Even with a carpet kit installed, the sub fits nicely. The use of wire loom gives it a finished look. Be aware that I loosened the spare and slid it down for the photo; normally it almost completely hides the sub.
The spare is an aluminum space-saving spare from a Lincoln Towncar. It provides a lot of extra space in the trunk because it's much thinner than those big old factory spares.
The BT has adjustable gain and volume knobs, so you can tune the sub to your preferences. It sounds great, and when blasting rock-n-roll (is there anything else?) I can feel the beat thumping through my seat--and I'm a paraplegic
Chairwriter, looking at your posted pic. Could you tell me what I'm looking at? I mean is the port side down and the open end to the rear? Is this the actual outside of the Bazooka or do you have a cover over it?
For folks interested this seems to be a tight squeeze. May not fit like this in 65/66, jusr a warning. The commonly availible 175/65R14 is a tad smaller than the original base tire. It's availible in Firestone 721, Goodyear and several others. The original 14" 5" wide wheel is perfect, this spare should allow the BTA6100 to fit.
By the way several places have the BTA6100 for $145 including shipping. Amazon and CompUSA are well known. Surprizingly WalMart is among the highest, Crutchfield being very high!
By the way several places have the BTA6100 for $145 including shipping. Amazon and CompUSA are well known. Surprizingly WalMart is among the highest, Crutchfield being very high!
Slim
Good info to know. I'm going to see if any of them have it on Black Friday.
For folks interested this seems to be a tight squeeze. May not fit like this in 65/66, jusr a warning. The commonly availible 175/65R14 is a tad smaller than the original base tire. It's availible in Firestone 721, Goodyear and several others. The original 14" 5" wide wheel is perfect, this spare should allow the BTA6100 to fit.
Good to know also. I'm going to look for the '98-'99 Town Car space saver mainly to save even more room. If anyone has a line on one let me know--I'm being cheap on this since my local yards want $70 and up. Ebay seems to be about the same. I have the winter to find one though.
Chairwriter, looking at your posted pic. Could you tell me what I'm looking at? I mean is the port side down and the open end to the rear? Is this the actual outside of the Bazooka or do you have a cover over it?
Slim
The open end of the Bazooka is pointed toward the rear of the car. It does not have a cover over it.
The cross-section of the Bazooka is not a circle, but more like a pregnant 8. You can see this in the images at Amazon and elsewhere. Two mounting straps are provided (I used just one). The tube can be rolled on its side against the quarter panel to adjust it for the best fit before tightening the strap(s).
For users concerned about fitment, the Lincoln Town Car spare tire is part of the equation. I got a perfectly good one from a salvage yard. It saves space, it's cheap, and it looks great in the trunk.
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Bruce G.
1967 Candyapple Red Convertible
Massaged 289 (original), Edelbrock Performer 4bbl, AOD, Factory A/C, PS, PB, Power top, Exterior Decor Group, Interior Decor Group
The open end of the Bazooka is pointed toward the rear of the car. It does not have a cover over it.
The cross-section of the Bazooka is not a circle, but more like a pregnant 8. You can see this in the images at Amazon and elsewhere. Two mounting straps are provided (I used just one). The tube can be rolled on its side against the quarter panel to adjust it for the best fit before tightening the strap(s).
For users concerned about fitment, the Lincoln Town Car spare tire is part of the equation. I got a perfectly good one from a salvage yard. It saves space, it's cheap, and it looks great in the trunk.
Thanks for the added input. I kinda figured from your posted pic that the port/hump is away and down. Pic shows the main cylinder.
I tend to plan and check things to death. You have a 67 vert. I have an early 68 (recessed quarter reflector). The depression for the reflector is significant (like 1/4" plus the retainer fastener/studs interfere by another 1/2"! This is a bummer! I'm grinding the excess stud off but that damn reflector recess/bump still interferes! Still pressing on and doing this...it's just one of those Murphy strikes again.
Built a model of the main cylinder of the BTA6100. Had two almost empty gallon stain cans from staining the cedar siding. The two cans with a 3" spacer between (a gladwear food container was near perfect). Some tablet back cardboard and 200 mph duck (duct) tape and I have a model of the Bazooka complete with handy carrying bails! Lay that beauty in the quarter and damn! The reflector bump and fastener stud!
The ongoing adventure of the early 68 quarter panel side marker stud interference:
Removed the reflector bezel. Plan was to remove the offending stud and use a flat head or thin pan head screw in that location. Thus the formed reflector bump would be the only interference.
Murphy strikes again. The bezel is die cast zinc and the studs are part of the casting!! I'm buying (wasting $ people!) a spare bezel. Will cut the stud off and drill and bottom tap the bezel.
Sorry for the delayed reply. I've had my sub in the car for at least three years, but I'm 99% certain its the one already linked by another post. It's the BTA6100 model, which equates to Bazooka tube, Amplified, 6-inch, 100-watts.
Hi Bruce,
Just curious, do you get much vibration from the body panels or the deck lid with the bass tube mounted there--I've heard some cars really rattle that way from outside. Maybe not with a 100 amp bass though (??).
Well Guys, I pulled the trigger on the 6" unit (Bazooka BT6100) that Bruce is happy with and lived with for 10K miles this summer. I got it from a Ebay power seller for $138 inc. shipping. I'll let everyone know who I dealt with and how the buying experience turns out after I get it. Looking forward to the install and seeing how it sounds in the 'Vert.
Well Guys, I pulled the trigger on the 6" unit (Bazooka BT6100) that Bruce is happy with and lived with for 10K miles this summer. I got it from a Ebay power seller for $138 inc. shipping. I'll let everyone know who I dealt with and how the buying experience turns out after I get it. Looking forward to the install and seeing how it sounds in the 'Vert.
Talk Soon,
Your sig pic of 68 vert shows it has the early side markers. The front mounting stud needs to be cut so it's flush with the nut. The stud cannot be removed as it's part of the casting. I went to the local Menards and bought a 12-24 threading die (it's 1" hex, works fine with adjustable wrench) less than $3 and a pair of brass 12-24 nuts $0.89. Threaded the studs, mounted the marker and used my Dremel to cut the front stud flush.
The marker studs are perfect for threading to 12-24.
Congrats, looking forward to hearing how you like it!
Slim
Curious - did you consider getting the powered version? Im looking at the BTA6100....other than being powered & being around the same price... wondering which way to go here... thanks
tone
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rebel Racing
Well Guys, I pulled the trigger on the 6" unit (Bazooka BT6100) that Bruce is happy with and lived with for 10K miles this summer. I got it from a Ebay power seller for $138 inc. shipping. I'll let everyone know who I dealt with and how the buying experience turns out after I get it. Looking forward to the install and seeing how it sounds in the 'Vert.
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