Can someone please tell me the exact measurements from the face of the waterpump (where the pulley rests) on a BIG BLOCK only to the lip of the radiator support. I need to determine exactly how much room there is between the radiator support and the furthest extending portion of the motor. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks!
I would love to help, but that sounds really hard to measure accurately with the fan installed...
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65 Restomod Coupe - incomplete, 5.0, Custom wiring, AOD, 4-wheel disks, some gentle body mods
67 390 GT Fastback - finished. Acapulco Blue on black, w/ '63 Ford 406 Tripower, Shelby drop, 15 x 7 Halibrands. Built at San Jose, February 9th, 1967.
"I love you, and your smart and all... but da**!, you are an idiot!!"
"The laziest man is the most innovative."
well, I ran out to the car and checked - it's about 3.5" from the face of the water pump pulley to the radiator support... add the thickness of the pulley (maybe 1/16"?) and you would have 3 9/16" to the face of the waterpump. Best I can do with the fan and pulley installed.
Nick
That seems awfully tight. I am running a 1968 style 4 row copper radiator (about 2-1/2") and the Hayden 2011 fan clutch (IIRC 2.91") leaving about a 1/2" between the front of the fan clutch and the radiator core. My math tells me the overall dimension you are asking about is approximately 6".
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*67 Vintage Burgundy 390GTA with most of the bells and whistles*
Yeah Jeff, I realized he's asking about the large sheet metal support. I measured from the radiator bracket. i deleted my message. I agree, about 6"
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65 Restomod Coupe - incomplete, 5.0, Custom wiring, AOD, 4-wheel disks, some gentle body mods
67 390 GT Fastback - finished. Acapulco Blue on black, w/ '63 Ford 406 Tripower, Shelby drop, 15 x 7 Halibrands. Built at San Jose, February 9th, 1967.
"I love you, and your smart and all... but da**!, you are an idiot!!"
"The laziest man is the most innovative."
I can try to check this weekend on my 67 390 with stock fan, and orig radiator if looking for something other than answers already given. Let me know as I do oil change and put it away this weekend.
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If you borrow a tool more than twice, you need to own it You get what you pay for!
George email: <myhawk@gsinet.net>
As noted, hard to get an exact measuremet with fan and radiator in, but my two 68's look to be real close to the 6" noted. Maybe a tad less, 5 3/4" or so...
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8R03S : 76A I 2A 15M 72 5 U
8R01S : 65A B 2A 28M 72 7 5 - Factory GT
8R01C : 65A M 2A 01E 72 2 W - CS/GT
8F01X : 65A I 2G 20E 24 1 U - EXP500 to-be
Thanks I am trying to determine the total space I have for a new radiator and a dual electric fan set up. A smart person would have measured it before he pulled the motor, but that didn't happen. REALLY like your car by the way. Here is a pic of mine. I am having trouble finding a fan setup with enough cooling capacity for 700 HP
Final, why are we looking at dual electric fans, if I might ask ? The factory clutch fan can do what you need - if the shroud is intact and everythings is good. You could make your own shroud if you need....the electric fans almost always move less air then the mechanical fans, sometimes much less. LSG
Thanks I am trying to determine the total space I have for a new radiator and a dual electric fan set up. A smart person would have measured it before he pulled the motor, but that didn't happen. REALLY like your car by the way. Here is a pic of mine. I am having trouble finding a fan setup with enough cooling capacity for 700 HP
Thanks for the compliment. On the 700 hp idea, make sure to get ceramic coated headers to help channel the considerable heat out of the engine bay and you may consider additional louvers in the hood closer to the windshield for further heat extraction (see '68 Shelby big blocks for an example). Good luck and let us know what you decide.
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*67 Vintage Burgundy 390GTA with most of the bells and whistles*
Last edited by JeffTepper; 11-12-2012 at 07:03 PM.
Jeff,
Thanks. I absolutely will be getting ceramic coated headers but that is my other dilema. Finding suitable headers with good ground clearance. I was looking at FPA with great ground clearance but they are tri-Y which really does not balance or evacuate the gases well. Doug's D627 headers look great and do the job but have poor ground clearance. so I am lost on that but need to find my way fairly soon.
Jeff,
Thanks. I absolutely will be getting ceramic coated headers but that is my other dilema. Finding suitable headers with good ground clearance. I was looking at FPA with great ground clearance but they are tri-Y which really does not balance or evacuate the gases well. Doug's D627 headers look great and do the job but have poor ground clearance. so I am lost on that but need to find my way fairly soon.
FWIW, I'm running Hooker Super Comp headers and the limited ground clearance is always a problem..... Next go around I've decided to go with the FPA's to make driving the car more road friendly and I'll live with the reduction in flow.
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*67 Vintage Burgundy 390GTA with most of the bells and whistles*
I drove my modified 67 GT500 on a many 100 plus degree days in Las Vegas summer heat without it ever overheating in stop & go traffic even one time and it never lost a drop of coolant after shutting it off ever. I didn't have an overflow bottle by the way.
I ran a new 3 core brass radiator rather than the stock 2 core, and a 180 degree T-stat, with the stock correct fan shroud and the stock correct big-block Mustang cooling fan with a new fan clutch. I also had the correct original water pump pulley.
If you are really concerned about it running hot, go with an aftermarket aluminum 4 core radiator and all the other correct parts I mentioned. The original big-block Mustang fans were 7 bladed and 18.25" in diameter. Look for one with stamping ID#: C6OE-F or C8OE-B, or C9ZE-E. Most of the big-block water pump pulleys were aprox. 7" to 7.25" outer diameter, having one too small will cause problems also.
An electric fan is a waste of money and time and will only clutter up your engine compartment in my opinion.
I'm concerned about continuous cooling at idle on a hot day in traffic. The mechanical fan does not pull much at idle when I need it the most.
I'm guessing this is a car you're working and hasn't been driven yet.
Well on my 67 GT 390, I'm using orig (one year size) radiator, orig 7 blade fixed fan, new fan clutch, I added a shroud which was NOT stock for mine (only ac cars I think) and with SCJ exhaust manifolds to match my Edlebrock aluminum heads, and mechanical temp gauge for the accurate reading, I have NO PROBLEMS sitting in any hot traffic. And I'm talking 95 degrees or higher. keeping fan belts tight. On the hottest days my engine builder said gauge shouldn't go past 212 degrees. He was right, never goes above that, oh and running stock T-stat.
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If you borrow a tool more than twice, you need to own it You get what you pay for!
George email: <myhawk@gsinet.net>
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67-68 Big Block engine bay measurements
You get what you pay for!
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