Post up a copy of it. Quite possible it has the answer and the tech didn't know it.
Does the light stay lit all of the time? Is it lit with key on, engine off ?
Does it turn off if you rev the engine up to 1500-2000 rpm? Does the light flicker at all?
The light is not lit all of the time.
It lights when you turn the key into Accessory position. Then it turns off as you turn the key to On, then comes back on again until you turn the car off.
It does not flicker or go out when you rev the engine.
"And by properly grounded, it just needs to be bolted to the side of the car to be grounded, right?"
Make sure that whatever chassis ground point you use is paint free, rust free, dirt free, in other words a good clean connection. For example, if the mounting hole for the ground wire has just been treated to a fresh cost of paint, how is the electricity going to get to ground?
I removed the voltage regulator and cleaned that area. I also disconnected the wiring and reconnected to make sure it was secure.
It had no effect.
Last edited by eww34445; 11-12-2012 at 04:22 PM.
Reason: typo
The ALT light should NOT come on in the ACC position. If it does, you either had a bad ignition switch or someone has messed with the wiring. There are 4 terminals on the switch.
1. Feed from battery, usually marked "B"
2. Feed to Accessories such as wipers and radio, usually marked "A"
3. Feed to Ignition system, turn signals, heater blower AND Alternator Warning Lamp, usually marked "C"
4. Feed to Starter Solenoid, usually marked "S".
When you get your multimeter, disconnect the battery ground cable, set the meter to "continuity" or the lowest OHMS scale, remove the regulator plug and back probe the wire to the "I" terminal with one probe, and probe the plug at the ignition switch to see where it may go. You should have continuity at the "C" terminal, with a resistance value near equal to that of the indicator bulb.
The ALT light should NOT come on in the ACC position. If it does, you either had a bad ignition switch or someone has messed with the wiring. There are 4 terminals on the switch.
1. Feed from battery, usually marked "B"
2. Feed to Accessories such as wipers and radio, usually marked "A"
3. Feed to Ignition system, turn signals, heater blower AND Alternator Warning Lamp, usually marked "C"
4. Feed to Starter Solenoid, usually marked "S".
When you get your multimeter, disconnect the battery ground cable, set the meter to "continuity" or the lowest OHMS scale, remove the regulator plug and back probe the wire to the "I" terminal with one probe, and probe the plug at the ignition switch to see where it may go. You should have continuity at the "C" terminal, with a resistance value near equal to that of the indicator bulb.
Well.......crap.
I ordered the multimeter last night. I will report back when I get it in.
I guess there is probably no answer to this question, but I've been driving this car for 14 years and have never messed with the wiring (or had someone do it for me). So, why would this just manifest now?
For the life of me, I can't remember if the ALT light was always on in ACC or if this just started when it decided to never go off.
Thanks.
The ALT light is fed from the ignition switch through circuit #297(BK-LG H). Two poles of the switch provide power for this circuit; one in the RUN position, the other in the ACC position. From this, one can surmise that the ALT light should be lit in both the RUN and ACC positions. Circuit 297 also feeds fuses F1 and F2 along with the Windshield Wiper Switch. Fuse F1 feeds the radio, back-up lamp switch, and turn signal flasher. F2 feeds the Parking Brake Warning Lamp, and the Heated Backlite Switch. If all those accessories work properly, in both the RUN and ACC positions, then your switch is most likely good. To be on the safe side, however, do a switch adjustment and shown in the service manual.
If all this checks out, you may have a short in the harness between circuit 904 (LG-R), which feeds the regulator from the ALT lights, and circuit 16 (R-LG) which feed the ignition coil. This could be enough to give 12 volts on both sides of the ALT light. If, with the engine running, you quickly move the ignition switch from RUN to ACC, and the engine keeps running, this is most likely your problem. Even if it doesn't, I would still check the harness for a short.
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