67 Mustang AOD and 8.8 Rear Upgrade

[lc_102]

Good afternoon gentlemen,

I started gathering together the pieces about a year ago, I bought an AOD out of an early ninety's F-150, and pulled a rearend out of a 97 explorer.

A little history on the car, It was originally a six cylinder, 4 lug drum non-power brake car.

I just dropped the transmission a couple days ago, but I can tell you right now its not a c-4. From my best guess, someone dropped a 70's flat tappit 351w into the stock drive train of the mustang (transmission back) because I know the old four lug rear end was stock, so were the front drums.

About a year ago I pulled an 8" rearend out of a 65 to gain the extra clearance, but to my wonderful surprise it had a slightly bent passenger side axel

SO.... Here's where I'm at with the project. I've got it blocked up, old tranny out, and AOD cleaned and prepped to be installed.

I plan on buying a new 164tooth flywheel for a 92 5.8l crown vic, but I have a couple of questions.

One being, will I need to change the block plate? Like I said the engine is old school, and theres no telling what it was bolted up to stock (from what I hear an early 70's Thunderbird)

Should I just bite the bullet and grab a new one while I'm at it. I have the stock plate (I would Imagine) that was in the car before I pulled the tranny, I also have a blockplate from an early to mid eighties 302. I can take a picture of the one I just pulled from the car if that will help.

Question No.2, when I lengthen the transmission rear mount by 2", Does it need to set lower for any reason? (clearance or whatever)

Question No.3 - I installed a new 68 radiator last year so I could get the bottom snout in the correct location for a 351w. Question is, I've been running this older transmission, so the tranny cooler reservoir in the radiator is filled with the old style fluid. Will I run into problems hooking a later model Aod up to this reservoir that still has the "old" tranny type fluid in it?

I plan on running rubber lines with brass fittings just an fyi. I want to go get my flywheel today and install it, but really need answers on the backing plate issue.

And if all you have to say "use the search feature" then don't even post, I don't need anything negative in this thread and yes, I have used the search feature extensively, I would just much rather hear it from the horses mouth from people who have successfully done this exact swap.

So please, If you have anything to add make it productive. Not "why not a nine inch? ect...." I have the parts already, I've studied the swap, and I have my mind made up. Thats pretty much all there is to it.

I don't have any questions about the rear end set up at the moment, But I'm sure I will as the project continues. So thanks in advance for all the help guys, It really is appreciated

Lance

[GypsyR]

That'll be a 1991 Crown Vic flexplate. In 1992 they went all 4.6 engines.
If you have a block plate laying around, hold it up against the AOD's bellhousing. If the starter hole and all the bolt holes line up...there you go. Plates for manual transmissions don't have the access opening at the bottom so you can get at the converter nuts, so you don't want to use one of those unless you want to cut an opening in it.
The radiator cooler doesn't hold more tha a dribble of fluid. Personally I would flush the cooler with some brake cleaner spray and then compressed air. To make sure there was no sediment in it. I wouldn't worry about the tiny bit of leftover fluid.
I've grown to despise rubber cooler lines over the years. Other than a short length or two to mate to a cooler I avoid using them. If you do, make sure you use the correct hose. Either the hose for hooking up an aftermarket trans cooler or power steering "return hose" (usually what the parts stores have). If you try to use fuel hose or something, it will work. For a while. Then after a year or maybe a couple you'll get a big nasty surprise when all your transmission fluid suddenly dumps out on the freeway faster than you can get pulled over to the breakdown lane. I've seen that scenario too many times over the years.

[lc_102]

Thanks alot friend,

I'm very glad I posted here because I would have just gone and bought the wrong flywheel lol

Yeah, I've got a Model A With an old c-6 three speed automatic, I used rubber lines that were labeled transmission coolant lines.

Its been a few years but I haven't had any trouble yet (I look this car over constantly because I'm trusting my life to a vehicle thats had me touch and assemble every nut and bolt haha) but I don't see any weak spots, I just hope it stays that way.

With this car I just installed a new master cylinder for the four wheel drum brake (non-powered) set up I have. Now I'm going to have Disk in back - Drum in Front (temporarily)

So from my understanding (could be wrong, that's why I'm here) that I should just need a proportioning valve?

Is that Right?

[LindenBruce]

You can buy new steel lines for the AOD in a mustang from several different Mustang parts houses. I can't remember who I bought mine from. They fit nicely. It will solve the issue of running rubber the whole distance.
Bruce

[gman]

All trans fluid starts out as F type and then they add friction additives to make it whatever you want. In other words the cooler will be fine. As for rubber lines, don't use them, the additives will brake down the rubber and send little pieces throw the entire trany. It sounds like you have one very large project on your hands.

[GypsyR]

OEM's use rubber lines on almost everything. THey just limit their use to joining steel lines to the radiators and/or coolers to separate drivetrain vibration and motion from the chassis. Using the correct type of hose is the key. I use hose, I just like to keep it to a minimum.
I suggest starting another thread for the brake question. IIRC drum brake master cylinders often have 10 psi residual pressure valves versus none or 2psi ones for disk brakes. Which means the rear disks would "drag" and lock up prematurely. Basically making the car unsafe to drive. I'd really like you to get more informed opinions on this though. The master cylinder you have may not have these valves. It's a problem I've run into before but not specifically on a 67 Mustang. No doubt someone here will know more.