I don't really see how you can just change out pinion bearing(s) without removing the diff carrier bearing anyway. So you should just be talking about the additional price of the two carrier bearings.
Unless you are talking about rebuilding the entire rear axle, to include the axle bearings.
BTW, I just moved to St Charles, IL. Where are you haveing your work done?
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mark
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04 SVT Cobra, Torch Red (daily driver)
67 'vert 302,4spd,Red/Red (almost ready!)
67 Coupe 289,auto,black/black,deluxe (sold)
67 Coupe I6 to V8 conversion (sold)
Are you wanting to change the gears as well or are you happy with your current set up? Now is the time to figure it out. A rebuilt center section will cost the same (around $900) and will bolt right in- can get any ratio you want. Of course you'ld want to check the axle bearings (I'd just change them while it's apart) and axle seals. I just went through this- changed to a 3:55 tru trac, new axle bearings, seals. Took one afternoon (borrowed a slide hammer from auto zone). John
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"If you need a new machine and you don't buy it, you pay for it without getting it." -Henry Ford
I don't really see how you can just change out pinion bearing(s) without removing the diff carrier bearing anyway. So you should just be talking about the additional price of the two carrier bearings.
Unless you are talking about rebuilding the entire rear axle, to include the axle bearings.
BTW, I just moved to St Charles, IL. Where are you haveing your work done?
65 FB w/4spd, and i am embarrassed to say I don't know what diff is in the car. I'm having the work done at Sparks in south Naperville. Not a place that I would recommend, I just needed to get it done before I put it away.
I can however recommend Mustang Restorations in Dundee IL. Not too far at all from St. Charles. A+ work.
Are you wanting to change the gears as well or are you happy with your current set up? Now is the time to figure it out. A rebuilt center section will cost the same (around $900) and will bolt right in- can get any ratio you want. Of course you'ld want to check the axle bearings (I'd just change them while it's apart) and axle seals. I just went through this- changed to a 3:55 tru trac, new axle bearings, seals. Took one afternoon (borrowed a slide hammer from auto zone). John
I was fine with the gears, It was just making a lot of noise.
65 FB w/4spd, and i am embarrassed to say I don't know what diff is in the car. I'm having the work done at Sparks in south Naperville.
Assuming your '56 came with a V8, it probably also came with an 8" differential. Only the HiPo289 cars came with a 9" in that year.
You should probably ask a few more questions. I really don't know how you could change just the pinion bearings on that differential, without doing the carrier bearings at the same time. And thats really all there is to a total rebuild on an 8".
Could it be that they are including the axle bearings on their 'total' estimate? If so, $350 is a pretty good deal on a diff rebuild.
I would just be carefull. I would not trust most shops to rebuild my differential. You should deffinately make sure they know what they are doing.
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mark
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04 SVT Cobra, Torch Red (daily driver)
67 'vert 302,4spd,Red/Red (almost ready!)
67 Coupe 289,auto,black/black,deluxe (sold)
67 Coupe I6 to V8 conversion (sold)
Assuming your '56 came with a V8, it probably also came with an 8" differential. Only the HiPo289 cars came with a 9" in that year.
You sure about that? Everything I've ever heard or read the last 30 years has said that the only Mustangs to get 9" rearends in 1965 and 1966 models were Shelby GT-350's. 9" rears didn't show up standard on Mustangs until the 1967 model and then only with 351ci or larger engines. Boss 302 Mustangs being the exception to that rule.
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1970 Fastback (to be finished outside as a Boss 302 clone)
393 Windsor AFR 205 heads with 11.5:1 compression
Tremec TKO 5 Speed
Link to my Hub Garage and blog about my car http://www.hubgarage.com/mygarage/maxum96
Assuming your '56 came with a V8, it probably also came with an 8" differential. Only the HiPo289 cars came with a 9" in that year.
You should probably ask a few more questions. I really don't know how you could change just the pinion bearings on that differential, without doing the carrier bearings at the same time. And thats really all there is to a total rebuild on an 8".
Could it be that they are including the axle bearings on their 'total' estimate? If so, $350 is a pretty good deal on a diff rebuild.
I would just be carefull. I would not trust most shops to rebuild my differential. You should deffinately make sure they know what they are doing.
On the 8" & 9", you can remove the pinion without removing the carrier since the pinion is housed in a removable pinion support. The center section does not even need to be removed from the axle housing.
If all they are doing is replacing the pinion bearings, $350 is probably too much unless they are pulling the entire third member and rechecking gear mesh. Changing the bearings probably won't affect pinion depth, but I personally wouldn't do it without doublechecking backlash and contact pattern. There's a lot more labor involved with removing the third member instead of only the pinion - that's about the only thing that would justify the cost. If they are just pulling the pinion, replacing the bearings, resetting preload and reinstalling, $350 is too much.
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'66 Emberglo Coupe - Restoration COMPLETE!
Modifications:
5.0 EFI conversion
T56 6-speed
Rod & Custom Motorsports IFS
TCP subframe connectors
Vintage Air Heat & AC
On the 8" & 9", you can remove the pinion without removing the carrier since the pinion is housed in a removable pinion support. The center section does not even need to be removed from the axle housing.
If all they are doing is replacing the pinion bearings, $350 is probably too much unless they are pulling the entire third member and rechecking gear mesh. Changing the bearings probably won't affect pinion depth, but I personally wouldn't do it without doublechecking backlash and contact pattern. There's a lot more labor involved with removing the third member instead of only the pinion - that's about the only thing that would justify the cost. If they are just pulling the pinion, replacing the bearings, resetting preload and reinstalling, $350 is too much.
Greg, your right you "could" remove the pinion bearing support and replace just the bearings, but i would not recommend that. You are almost guaranteed to change the pinion depth with a new set of bearinga and a new crush sleeve. And you cant even check your gear mesh pattern without removing the chunk.
Another point is wether you have 'non-walking' gears that need to be lined up again properly?
In any case, I think changing only the pinion bearings is a bad idea.
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mark
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04 SVT Cobra, Torch Red (daily driver)
67 'vert 302,4spd,Red/Red (almost ready!)
67 Coupe 289,auto,black/black,deluxe (sold)
67 Coupe I6 to V8 conversion (sold)
I wouldn't recommend it either, but I'm sure there are some shops out there that would do it in the interest of making a buck. There are plenty that will replace a pinion seal without replacing the crush sleeve and just just an air impact to hammer the pinion nut back on. There's quite a bit of difference in the amount of labor involved, but you are correct - the right way to do it is to pull the whole thing apart and check all the measurements. That's the way I would expect it to be done. Not sure how many labor hours would be charged - probably at least 5? If that's the case, most of that $350 is probably labor - parts for that job are probably $30-$40. I was just pointing out that the pinion bearings "could" be changed without disassembling the whole rear end, even though it's not the right way to do it.
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'66 Emberglo Coupe - Restoration COMPLETE!
Modifications:
5.0 EFI conversion
T56 6-speed
Rod & Custom Motorsports IFS
TCP subframe connectors
Vintage Air Heat & AC
You sure about that? Everything I've ever heard or read the last 30 years has said that the only Mustangs to get 9" rearends in 1965 and 1966 models were Shelby GT-350's. 9" rears didn't show up standard on Mustangs until the 1967 model and then only with 351ci or larger engines. Boss 302 Mustangs being the exception to that rule.
All the K codes got 9" rears in 65-67. I "think" some of the J-code '68 302 cars also got them.
MrFreeze
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"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans."
'66 GT Fastback show car, nightmist blue, warmed up original 289 & T-5Z, 3.80 trac-loc, AC, PS, pony interior, Retrosound, rally pac
'66 Coupe driver, Bullitt green, 302HO w/ 351W heads, roller rockers, Holley 600, T-5Z, 3.55 trac-loc, collapsible column, tank armor, disk brakes, shoulder belts
'11 BMW 335i X-drive, 6 speed manual, all the bells and whistles
All the K codes got 9" rears in 65-67. I "think" some of the J-code '68 302 cars also got them.
MrFreeze
68 GT's got the 9" rear.
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68 GT Vert - J Code (1st car I ever drove in '73, dad bought it in '71)
67 C Code Vert Sports Sprint (1st car I ever bought in '75)
06 Vista Blue with Pony Package (1st Mustang I ever bought new)
MCA #49294 Grayson, GA (Atlanta)
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