okay, put new motor in, primed it, ran break in period and all was well. after it cooled down wanted to hear it run later that day just for the hell of it and all was well. next day started it in order to set timing better etc. it started fine so I went out of the car and over to engine bay after a little bit and goosed the linkage to get it to go down to a low idle and it ran for a second then died
know it wont start and it is not even trying. It was danger low on gas (fumes), but I added a few gallons to the tank and still nothing. When I disconnect the fuel line at the fender apron (the line that goes to the pump) I am not getting gas out of that. I would have thought gas would just run out of the tank? My clear fuel filter has gas in it and I can see gas squirt into the carb when you hit the throttle.
I won't have a chance to mess with it for a few days so I am just trying to get an idea what to look for.
It appears that I am still getting fuel, so I am assuming I lost spark somehow. WTF?
__________________ 67 coupe 289 2bl, c4, 34k. That's how I got it but a lot has changed.
i'll pour a little fuel in the carb and start the car. it will run for a few seconds. i do this about three times and it's enough to get the fuel from the tank (i've had to do this when changing out fuel lines, draining, etc).
just the other day i had to do this. i still had some residual fuel in the accelerator pumps but it wasn't enough.
Location: In the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia....
Posts: 2,918
Are you still running points? If so turn on the key, take the dist cap off and see if your getting spark at the points.
__________________ My '70 Pro-Street. Mildly built 302, Mallory 6AL ignition, Hurst w/4-speed, 74 Maverick rear w/3.40 gears. Tied frame with 6 point cage. Trunk mounted battery, Dynamax Exhaust. Building a 351W 40 over now...
Remember that ther are 3 things that make a motor run. Air, Fuel and Fire.
Focus on simple things. If it ran before then it must be something simple.
*Air is usually there and is the least restricted, but double check that there is no restriction.
*Check your spark.
*You mentioned that you pulled a fuel line and there was hardly any fuel coming out when you thought there should be more.
Test the pump.
If you check all of the above then focus on the carb. It may just neeed to be adjusted startingfrom what I call a zero setting by dialing back the screws and starting over.
You said it is a new motor. Did you use an old fuel line, pump or did you go new?
Everything is new except carb. Distributor is a pertronix billet flamethrower III with their coil. Edelbrock carb is used and came off a running engine. All lines are new, fuel Pump new , tank new.
__________________ 67 coupe 289 2bl, c4, 34k. That's how I got it but a lot has changed.
Last edited by madstang78; 11-15-2012 at 09:24 AM.
Location: Vero Beach, FL but currently live in Korea
Posts: 1,211
Check to see if you're getting a spark to the plugs first thing. If not check all of your electric connections. Did they vibrate loose. check inition switch swtch to coil, coil to distributor. Sometimes a new part can fail. Did you put the new coil that goes with the dist? Maybe that elusive resistor wire from the ignition switch beeds to be bypassed to give the coil the full 12V.
I have the pertronix ignitor III billet dist with there coil. I did not bypass that ballast wire. It fired right up everyother time and ran fine so I assume I am good with out bypassing (I have not checked to see if it had been previously bypassed or not) since it ran before.
If I was getting low voltage do you think I might have runied that distributor?
__________________ 67 coupe 289 2bl, c4, 34k. That's how I got it but a lot has changed.
Pull a spark plug wire and verify spark to the plug when held against a grounding surface.
If not, pop the distributor cap and make sure the rotor spins when cranking it over. You wouldn't be the first guy to trash a distributor drive gear on a brand new engine.
If all is well there then pull the coil wire from the distributor and ground it to make sure you have spark there.
Not sure about the Pertronix distributor and the resistance wire.
You already said you're not getting gas in the fuel line.
Like was said above, pour some in the carb and start it. It takes quite a while to prime an empty fuel system
Putting gas in the tank doesn't push it up to the fuel pump. The fuel pump has to pull the gas all the way from the tank. Doing it by cranking alone takes 4 or 5 solid minutes, which is bad for your starter and your battery. Just pour some in the carb, start it, it will die, repeat, etc.
Plus, pouring gas in the carb will tell you if gas is the problem. Don't even bother looking at electrical until you try this.
__________________
"I'd rather laugh with the sinners than cry with the saints." - Billy Joel, Only The Good Die Young
... goosed the linkage to get it to go down to a low idle and it ran for a second then died
This makes me wonder if by doing that, you accidently loosened a wire from the solenoid, distributor, coil or elsewhere. First up, check for spark and make sure those connections are solid.
This makes me wonder if by doing that, you accidently loosened a wire from the solenoid, distributor, coil or elsewhere. First up, check for spark and make sure those connections are solid.
X2, I thought the same thing, look for a loose wire somewhere.
Agree with previous posts, pull a spark plug, ground it and check for spark. In September, I installed a Pertronix Ignitor III and coil in my new 331 stroker bypassing the "pink" wire. Engine fired on the first turn of the key. I shut it down to address some minor leaks and restarted. Car ran 30 seconds and then died. Eventually determined the brand new Ignitor failed: Google it - not entirely uncommon. For the record, I ran an Ignitor I for 7 years without issue.
Grab a can of carb cleaner and spray some in the carb while cranking. If you ran it out of gas it will take some suction at the pump to refill the pump and line. It isn't like the newer cars with electric fuel pumps. I've had to keep some running on a can of carb clean for 15-20 seconds before they'd draw up enough fuel.
Location: Vero Beach, FL but currently live in Korea
Posts: 1,211
Quote:
Originally Posted by 09Frank65
Not sure about the Pertronix distributor and the resistance wire.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, it's not the distributor that requires bypassing the resistor wire, it's the coil. The Famethrower III coil requires a full 12 volts. At startup when the engine is cold it'll get the 12 volts. Once things heat up including the resistance wire, the voltage to the coil drops. If it won't start when cold, and if it's getting gas, then the problem is something else most likely. However, new parts do fail on occasion for one reason or another. I have the Igniter III in my dist and FT III coil and never had a problem with them.
Last edited by tom991; 11-15-2012 at 07:08 PM.
Reason: typo
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help new motor stopped running
67 coupe 289 2bl, c4, 34k. That's how I got it but a lot has changed.
My '70 Pro-Street. Mildly built 302, Mallory 6AL ignition, Hurst w/4-speed, 74 Maverick rear w/3.40 gears. Tied frame with 6 point cage. Trunk mounted battery, Dynamax Exhaust. Building a 351W 40 over now...
Steve
