66 289 C Code, fresh rebuild very little running time. I have a slight miss when running, if I pull wires 1, 3, 5, 7 or 8 I get very little difference in running if I pull 2, 4 are 6 it sputters, I thought mmm bad cap, rotor nope no difference. I also replace the plugs.......now I am thinking what if the distributor was installed on the wrong stroke? I did not think it would run but maybe it will.
Pull #1 plug and stick your finger in the hole. turn the engine over until you feel the compression pushing out around your finger and take it to TDC. Pull your cap and see if the rotor is pointing at the #1 wire.
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Doug
'07 Shelby GT500, black with tungsten stripes
1968 modified fastback, aluminum 427 tunnelport 4 speed toploader
1968 coupe 289
1965 convertible 6 cyl
1966 coupe 289 4 speed
1995 SVT Cobra
1977 Mustang cobra II drag car http://www.cardomain.com/id/d_ford
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doug ford
Pull #1 plug and stick your finger in the hole. turn the engine over until you feel the compression pushing out around your finger and take it to TDC. Pull your cap and see if the rotor is pointing at the #1 wire.
+1
You could be off a tooth or two when installing the dist. Do the above first. Check the wires to see if you may have those few wrong. Next look at your cam card and see what it says the firing order is. Then check vacuum, timing, etc. like LindenBruce said.
Next look at your cam card and see what it says the firing order is.
unfortunately in my experience you can't always believe the cam card. i experienced the wrong firing order on a brand new comp cam that was in a sealed package.
half the cylinders were firing, rotate the distributor and the opposite set of cylinders would start firing. it's the reason i have the 289/302 firing order memorized from 20 years ago.
Yep thought it was vacuum leak, can't find one, thought it was carb issue pulled and took it to carb guy. I agree I need to find out what the cylinders have in common, it is strange the engine will run smooth, then miss. I am puzzled. Air mix screws make no difference if you adjust them, open close no difference. I am leaning back to carb problem........I have another may rebuild it and try it.
Just an idea, if your mixture screws don't do anything when turned I think I read on here that they could've been bottomed out too hard sometime and stripped. Don't know tho, watchn n learning here.
Spray some carb cleaner in the carb while its running and see if the miss goes away, sound's like your carb is leaning out on one side maybe? Also you can clear the jets sometimes by revving the motor and closing the choke.
Standard parts used on the rebuilt, it is really strange starts fine really does not run bad just has the stumble or miss. Sprayed carb cleaner in areas checking for vacuum leak, none detected. Cab cleaner sprayed on throttle input shaft engine smooths out or spray down carb smooths out. Throttle shaft is normal according to several carb builders if sprayed directly on the shaft, there has to be some tolerance or it would not turn.
Most feel it is something other than carb. Vacuum checked 18 at idle, of course drops when engine stumbles. I even changed out the points with Pertronix ignition, no change. The actually drives you can just feel the stumble every 15 seconds or so, idles rough in drive. So here is what I have done,
Fresh Rebuilt Engine (professional shop)
I rebuilt the Carb
Had the Carb rebuilt by professional (learned the carb is off 65 galaxy but ok and correct, just has extra linkage)
Checked the Timing (set with vac advance off/plugged) it is working
Changed the Plugs
Checked for vacuum leaks-engine smooths out when carb cleaner sprayed inside for brief moment or when sprayed on throttle shaft
Changed points to Pertonix
Going to change wires today on off chance one or more are bad....
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Will the engine run if Distributor is 180 out
