Money is tight and cant really afford a new one. Mine is the early 67 style with out the rag joint. Doesnt look like there's much to it. Has anyone rebuilt them? Just want to see what im getting into before I try it.
You'll need the Ford Shop Manual and an inch-pound torque wrench, and a few other items. The Manual is very complete. On your car, I would recommend removing the driver seat, it makes it a lot easier.
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Amateur restorer. (Well, once in a while I have been paid for it)
Does it need rebuilding or just adjusting? Most have never been adjusted or greased since new. I spent a lot of time with customers back when we had the shop, just doing simple maintenance. See if greasing it helps and then adjusting the box slightly and see if you get any improvement. DO NOT adjust so the wheels turn exactly when you turn the steering wheel- to tight and it will wear out fast! You want just a little play to be correct. We charged $50 for greasing and adjusting a 68 and saved the owner a small fortune instead of a Flaming River swap!
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64 9/10 Convertible- 370,000 miles & counting (2nd owner)
65 GT Convertible
65 K GT Fastback- 59,000 original miles
69 GT Convertible- 72,000 miles
08 Coupe
200 F-250 Lariat, 2010 F-250 King Ranch
+1 to what Pony Doc said.
On a 65 that had the HCC-AX GT steering box, grease was OK but less than a 1/4 turn for openers
and that was all it needed. PS was added to that car.
Its super sloppy! Im sure it needs a rebuild there is several inches of travel in the wheel.
I seriously doubt you'll be able to adjust out that much play....
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As the drill sergeant said, "I taught you everything you know. I didn't teach you everything I know."
"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experience of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so."
- Douglas Adams
Surprisingly, you can adjust a lot of play out of it. Remove the 3 bolts on top of the box and loosen the adjuster screw nut. Twist the top to 1 side and check for any grease/oil left. If not much, get out the trusty grease gun and start pumping. Twist the top to the other side and repeat. I also squirt some WD-40 in as well. Button it up and then tighten the screw a bit until you feel minor resistance. Drive it around the block and see how much play is left. You may have to do this 3-4 times to fine-tune it, but DO NOT get it too tight. Leave just a slight play in the steering wheel and you're done. Most boxes have never been greased or adjusted, so it's a good start. If it solves the problem, you'll save a lot of $$$, if not, then you do need it re-built, but at least you'll know it really needs it, rather than just spending money first!
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64 9/10 Convertible- 370,000 miles & counting (2nd owner)
65 GT Convertible
65 K GT Fastback- 59,000 original miles
69 GT Convertible- 72,000 miles
08 Coupe
200 F-250 Lariat, 2010 F-250 King Ranch
Get the front end in the air, remove the lowest and highest bolts on the box cover, pump lithium chassis grease in the bottom until it comes out the top. Run the steering wheel stop to stop a couple times, pump more grease in then reinstall bolts. Loosen the adjusting screw/nut and note how much play there is in the steering wheel relative to the left front wheel moving. Tighten a little at a time until the play is gone then back off until you just get a tiny bit. Tighten the screw until play is gone then just a touch more for a tiny bit of pre load. Drop it and try it. It should be tight and smooth but not binding. Note, you'll feel a little pressure as you tighten the screw and don't forget to tighten the lock nut. Also, check your wheel bearings; they should not be loose. I have 980,000 miles on my chassis and this is how I've adjusted the (manual) steering for years. If you can't get the slop out its time for a rebuild. That could be as easy as replacing the ball bearings but I'm not sure - haven't had to do it yet. Hope this helps...
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