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Old 11-19-2012, 10:39 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default I6 runs to cool...

After reading the “Best Cooling Option?” thread, I realized that my White Horse runs to cool (if I believe my temperature gage). Based on this, I suspect the fan blade I have is not original to the 65 I6. At full operating temperature the t-gage barely falls within the acceptable temp range. It did move past the left line once, but still only into the first quarter of the range. This occurred on a nice Arizona 90+ degree day while I was waiting at a very long stoplight driving in stop-and-go traffic. I have not seen this since. With that said, could you help me with these questions?
1. How would I measure the temperature to ensure that it is actually running cool as opposed to an inaccurate gage?
2. If she is indeed running as cool as indicated, would replacing the current 5 blade fan to a four blade correct this?
3. Is the four bladed fan the correct one for a 65 I6 without A/C?
4. What is the correct water pump for the 65/66 I6? (In case I have one that is too large for this motor)
5. Your advice. (The answer to any proper question(s) that I did not know enough to ask)
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Old 11-19-2012, 10:49 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Two simple ways to check temps.

1 remove radiator cap.
Start car.
Let warm up.
When the fluid in the radiator starts to flow, stick a thermometer in the fluid and take a reading. It should be very close to the opening temp of your thermostat.
Compare to your dash gage reading.
You can also use a non contact infrared thermometer by pointing it at the painted surface of the radiator or thermostat housing on the manifold. Just don't point it at shiny metal surfaces or you will get bogus readings.

If your engine is truly running too cool, you need to replace the thermostat. It is most likely the wrong temp rating , stuck open or not there at all.
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:23 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Are you trying to use the stock temp gauge in the dash? That thing is nowhere near close to accurate. Same goes for the oil pressure gauge and voltmeter. I wouldn't pay any attention to them... I recently added one of those 3-gauge Sunpro pods with coolant temp/oil pressure/voltmeter under the dash, and it made a huge difference. Was pretty easy to install too - it took maybe a couple hours tops, and that was only because I didn't know what I was doing.

And yes, stock was a 4-blade fan.
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Old 11-19-2012, 12:29 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Once you get an acutual measurement and determine that it is in fact too cool, change to a higher setting thermostat. The purpose of the thermostat is to control the minimum operating temperature. One other thought is the thermostat may be stuck open.

I have all stock gauges in both cars and only use them for relative changes. In other words, I know where they usually run...if there's a difference I know something is up.
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Old 11-19-2012, 12:35 PM   #5 (permalink)
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all of the above and I will add you can just get an inexpensive mech or elect guage hook it up and you can check it in real time driving conditions.

compare 190 on that guage to where your factory guage is reading and youll know where the normal range is

thast what i did so now i know when my factory guage is reading between the M and P im ok
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Old 11-19-2012, 01:09 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I guess sometimes the simple answer isn't so simple to me. Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Asm109 View Post
Two simple ways to check temps.

1 remove radiator cap.
Start car.
Let warm up.
When the fluid in the radiator starts to flow, stick a thermometer in the fluid and take a reading. It should be very close to the opening temp of your thermostat.
Compare to your dash gage reading.
You can also use a non contact infrared thermometer by pointing it at the painted surface of the radiator or thermostat housing on the manifold. Just don't point it at shiny metal surfaces or you will get bogus readings.

If your engine is truly running too cool, you need to replace the thermostat. It is most likely the wrong temp rating , stuck open or not there at all.
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Old 11-19-2012, 01:14 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Default Parts the same?

When you say "mech or elect guage," is that the same as opivy1017's suggestion of a "3-gauge Sunpro pods with coolant temp/oil pressure/voltmeter?" If not, could you send me a link of what you're refering to? Then I'll decide which way I want ot go. First thing though will be to get a 4 blade fan and then see where I'm at. Thanks guys!
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Old 11-19-2012, 01:21 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Ask around and find somebody with a hand-held pyrometer http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Temperature-Infrared-Thermometer-Laser/dp/B002YE3FS4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1353349127&sr=8-3&keywords=hand+held+pyrometer and shoot the thermostat housing at operating temperature. It should be close to your thermostat rating.
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Old 11-19-2012, 01:44 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I just suggested the 3-gauge one because all the stock gauges are notorious for not being accurate, so if you're going to go through the trouble of routing lines through the firewall and mounting something on your dash it may be worth it to do everything at once, this way you know you have good accurate readings when you're driving around. But you can always just buy a temp gauge by itself and install it. Like others have said, you can really only trust the stock ones for relative changes.

If you just want to test the temp at idle and you don't want to mount something on your dash, then use one of the temp guns that was suggested. Or another option is to just unscrew the stock temp sensor in the engine, buy a mechanical temp gauge, and screw it in to where the stock one was. Run it, check your temps, and then plug the old one back in when you're done.
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Old 11-23-2012, 12:06 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Default Got the four-bladed fan...

Traded for an '65 OEM 4-bladed fan, now just need to make the time to replace it. I will buy a mechanical temp gage today and see where the engine temp sits and compare after replacing the fan. If all goes well, I will not install any aftermarket gages (at least not yet). Once this is done, then I'll see about flushing the system and fill with distilled water and prestone. Thanks for your advice and I'll keep you posted.
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Old 11-23-2012, 09:20 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I'll second daves67ss thought on going to a higher temp thermostat, particularly if you need/want to maintain higher operating temps for winter heating. I know some folks over at FSP will switch thermostats between summer and winter spec t-stats. It's best to run the warmest one possible. Generally, your engine will be most efficient at higher operating temps. With a clean and functioning cooling system on a straight six, they should run on the cooler side. I run a 195* stat all year round...in Texas! I've had no problems in the summer with this setup.

[EDIT] My plan is to convert to a thermostatic clutch "flex-a-lite" fan [not a "flex fan", hate flex fans]...a couple more ponies on a straight six go a long way...but as much, for me, to chase that 30mpg hwy number. It will also help increase average running temps. You'd have to use a very short clutch like this one from a jaguar (it's the same one some FE big block guys run given space limitations)...

Just another idea to consider. But the 4 blade should bring the temps up some (and the side benefit of a little less drag on these modest little motors). Good luck
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Old 11-24-2012, 03:33 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Turns out the fan on my I6 is a 6 bladed fan! Poor little engine didn't stand a chance! I purchased a "65" Mustang four blade and recieved this one with "913231668 S C6AE E" which is actually for a 66. I want to get a correct year blade, so now the question is, this second 4 blade fan, is it for a 65, or something else? There are no markings on this one at all. I know the 65 it came off of, but this one had a 66 engine in it (which I bought as a spare to rebuild) YEA!

Is the second one correct (the more angular one)? I know either would work, but when I restore anything, I want to restore it correctly. She may never be a concorse contestant, but at least she'll be as correct a Driver as I can afford to get her!
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File Type: jpg 4 blade fan 66 - Copy.jpg (36.3 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg 4 blade fan 66 serial number - Copy.jpg (32.2 KB, 5 views)
File Type: jpg Second 4 blade fan - Copy.jpg (53.9 KB, 4 views)
File Type: jpg Second 4 blade fan 2 - Copy.jpg (49.2 KB, 4 views)
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Old 11-24-2012, 10:49 AM   #13 (permalink)
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IIRC the second one looks like the correct for '65...the one with the more 'angular' pitch.
EDIT: On second thought, strike that, I'm thinking the second one with non-rounded edges is the later version, '67 & later??
http://www.cjponyparts.com/6-cylinde...7-1967/p/FAN1/
So the rounded edge first one would be more correct for a 1st gen.
Hopefully someone more in the know will confirm.

Quote:
Turns out the fan on my I6 is a 6 bladed fan! Poor little engine didn't stand a chance!
lol...I've run 6 blades before fending off other cooling issues, but they do rob some extra umph! I'll be interested to see if you notice the difference. Good luck
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Old 12-22-2012, 11:22 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Default Finally got some time!

I bought a meat thermometer to check the engine coolant temp. Took the cap off and started the engine. I let her idle for about 15 minutes and saw that it was where she normally operates. Then I put the thermometer in and the coolant in the radiator was running a little over 180*, so she is running fine. Now I know that the interior gage is inaccurate.
Could the weak reading be due to corrosion build-up around the sensor? Is it worth removing an cleaning/de-corroding?
Thanks for your help!
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Old 12-23-2012, 05:28 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Could the weak reading be due to corrosion build-up around the sensor? Is it worth removing an cleaning/de-corroding?
Could be, I'm not sure of the exact "normal operating temperature range" as it corresponds to the dash gauge, but 180* for the low end of the gauge sounds about right. 180* is still a fairly 'cool' running temp for engines. Overheat range is always over 212* as water does not boil under pressure (atmospheres) at the same temperature as it does at w/o pressure, or under normal atmospheric pressure. Depending on the poundage pressure rating of the cap, boil over can be 220*, 230*, etc. IIRC 1# of pressure on the system is roughly equivalent to +3* boiling point...so e.g. 1# of pressure on the system is equivalent to a boiling point of ~215* (boil over) on a pressurized system. If I haven't fouled those numbers up from memory

Point being your gauge might be fairly accurate afterall, as I'd say 180* avg operating temp is still on the cool side. Good luck
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Last edited by Frank-n-stang; 12-23-2012 at 05:31 PM.
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