i have a 67 mustang that my wife's grandmother bought from hertz in L.A back in 68 we have the owners manual that show it being sold to hertz then she bought it from a used car dealer and its been in her family ever since i am just wondering if the is any unknown value that i should be aware of be for we start modifying it the plan is to modernize it mechanically 2009 gt mustang front brakes 8.8 wt disk on rear 302 t5 speed trans rack and pinion the list goes on and on not making a race car its just 289 c4 drum brake car is terrible to drive and my mother in law insists we are ruining it
With regards to the brakes....the linings have likely been replaced with cheap quality parts...but here is one of the greatest issues and solutions.....
The issue with drum brakes (in general) is youth.......
to start with, the replacement linings at most parts houses have a braking co-efficient of around .25, that is about 50% less than what the oem called for in the 60's (which was .32 or better, most offered .38 replacement linings). Going back to the 70's and through today, linings rated at .49 or better are common and typically sell for around $140-$160 a set. longevity, typically 50k to 100k (miles) depends on your foot. Braking capability, every bit as good as oem grade disc brakes (noticed I said oem grade) as I have demonstrated to numerous "experts"........and remember, the 3/4 scale dirt track Jalopy cars that are running today are required to have drum brakes!
Second issue...most people have never been taught how to drive with drum brakes...yes the techniques, there are specific ones, such as applying pressure to the brakes when driving through water to keep the linings dry, etc.
3rd issue, 99% of today’s mechanics have never been taught the techniques of installing drum brakes...such as, cutting the linings to channel water out towards the backing plates (there are a few requirements on specifically how to do that).
Granted, disc do provided a lot of advantages, but that does not, nor should imply that a proper set of drums/linings, installed correctly should be any less safe.
It really all boils down to the friction co-efficient....anything greater than .49 will be better than oem in terms of its ability to bite. I would avoid Wagner, Raybestos & any rotor from the chain stores...as they are all made at the same foundry in China (rotors/drums)
With regards to brake linings in general,
Ceramics: They are good but do not develop any more friction than OEM linings
Performance Friction & Hawk: Good braking, increased friction but very dirty compared to OEM.
Wagner & Raybestos: a line of products that is 100% marketing and mfg from very low quality/inexpensive and/or imported products with the mfg's not providing any back-up or support on product failures (and I mean real ugly spontaneous, catestropihic failures)
VelveTouch lining- Used for many decades and was the original lining used in all Shelby Mustangs in the 60’s & was the standard on the Hertz cars....with few exceptions (I personally have used the Velvetouch lining since 1960’s until brake lining production ceased in 1986...while still available, they are for very limited applications), then switched to Carbotech. Wellman has been the builder of braking linings for all of the Formula 1 race teams for more than 30 years and VT is now available again.
CarboTech Engineering lining, which I have used for about 20+ years and been very happy on multiple full size (V8) cars and trucks. This particular lining has a high friction co-efficient, excellent pedal feel, wears (typically 50,000 to 75,000 miles before replacement is required) and produces less dust than OEM linings.
EBC also makes an excellent organic lining......almost dust free with excellent co-efficient.
I highly recommend speaking to them by phone for linings that would be best for your application. Fyi- braking co-efficient is what identifies the bite rating of the linings- you want the CE to be no less than that of the OEM.....this will drive most e-base distributors & big box store "experts" right out of their mind because they either cannot verify this info or you will find the spec is less than oem. IMHO, i would look for a CE that is .49 or greater.
With regards to drums (and rotors for that matter), I have previously run Brembo OEM replacement units that are cryogenically treated at Diversified Cryogenics, making them almost as hard as stainless steel- Applied Rotor Technology in California provides the same product- but I would not rely on their delivery as it is essentially a 1 person shop owned/run by a Boeing engineer who works back east, travels alot and works at ART on weekends the last of my phone conversations with him). Unfortunately, Brembo, Powerslot, Raybestos, Bendix, Hawk etc. are all purchasing their drums & rotors from the same foundary in China (with the exception of the $300 each composite high end units for Ferrari, Porsche, etc).
Both companies purchase the highest grade drums & rotors made, laser mic them for quality, scrap the ones that are out of spec and cryogenically treat the good ones which are now as strong as stainless. DC's service, price and quality are excellent as well.
The C4 auto is an excellent tranny...it was the equivalent to the GM Turbo 350 and can be built to handle anything a SBF engine can put out. IMHO, 1) that car has much "family" ownership in it and 2) minor mods are aways understood, recognized & appreciated by everyone but 3) while I am not a "purist" by any means, even most of the mod & custom guys would be disappointed to hear you had a complete, original, family owned vehicle that you essentially took apart, replaced components with parts that well, really are not going to perform any better that what should have been installed on it in the 1st place....
truthfully, if you are going to do that, buy a dime-a-dozen mustang...nobody will care & all will appreciate. Doing that to an original Hertz.....that can sell for $50,000 to $100,000 depending on the economy & auction, you would loose at least 50% from the mods you speak of.