I have already assembled my new suspension upgrades and now have decided that I may want to do the Shelby drop on the upper control arms.
I bought the 600# high performance springs from Virginia Mustang, Upper and Lower control arm assemblies and KYB GR2 shocks from Mustangs Unlimited. I had a tough time getting the springs compressed enough to barely fit the stock height control arms. How in the world do I get them to compress even further to fit when I change the position for the Shelby drop?
I would like to do this over the long weekend before I re-install fenders and hood, but I don't want to spend the ENTIRE weekend fighting with the fitment.
Any tips, pictures would be greatly appreciated.
I used an internal spring compressor tool the first time and it almost beat my spirit.
Your thinking backwards there. You move the upper control arm down which will give you more room. You did put the spring on top of the upper control arm on the spring perch right?
Do the drop. Everyone on here that has done it highly praises it.
Just did the drop with all new suspension on my 65. I had to compress the springs almost all the way but they did go in. The drop made a noticeable difference in how it handles.
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Tom
65 convertible, 289 C code, C4 automatic, Wimbledon white, red interior.
If the UCA moves down, won't that in effect raise the front of the car? Maybe I just haven't had enough caffeine yet today. I'm really wanting to drop the front to give it an aggressive street look.
Also, I don't have the original shims as I replaced the entire front suspension. How/where can I purchase the shims?
Not confusing at all if you think about it... here's a pic that shows in remedial terms how dropping the arm drops the car. The spring height, assuming the same spring, is not really impacted as the load is pretty much the same and the compressed length won't change much.
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"True terror is to wake up one morning and discover that your high school class is running the country."
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8R03S : 76A I 2A 15M 72 5 U
8R01S : 65A B 2A 28M 72 7 5 - Factory GT
8R01C : 65A M 2A 01E 72 2 W - CS/GT
8F01X : 65A I 2G 20E 24 1 U - EXP500 to-be
I just got fully done with the reassembly after the drop.
The 1" drop spring went in without a spring compressor.
It was pretty damn easy to do after everything is out of the car.
Lynn
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'99 GT automatic
CDC Shaker scoop, K&N Filter
MAC cat back
Max Speed 1 ½” Lowering springs
KYB GR2 shocks and struts
Cobra front brakes
I am in the process of rebuilding my 65 vert's suspension and plan to do the Arning Drop, roller perches, and new stock replacement springs. I captured and measured each set of shims and wire tied each "shim-pack" and labeled them for re-assembly. Does anyone know if there is a certain thickness shim I might leave out when I reassemble due to the "drop"? I realize I must get an alignment and this would only be a starting point to drive it to the alignmrnt shop. Thanks in advance.
Ok guys, you have convinced me. Right after the Thanksgiving meal, I am going to start the Shelby drop. I printed the template and have all the other parts ready. Hopefully, this is going to be easy enough that I have it back together by the weekend and ready to put the fenders back on.
Thanks for the heads up on the shims.....I will check those out tonight.
I am in the process of rebuilding my 65 vert's suspension and plan to do the Arning Drop, roller perches, and new stock replacement springs. I captured and measured each set of shims and wire tied each "shim-pack" and labeled them for re-assembly. Does anyone know if there is a certain thickness shim I might leave out when I reassemble due to the "drop"? I realize I must get an alignment and this would only be a starting point to drive it to the alignmrnt shop. Thanks in advance.
I believe you want to take out about a 1/4" of shims from what I recall reading in the how to articles.
Mine dropped 5/8 inch with the Arning drop. It handles great now but I did it in conjunction with a total front end rebuild so it's hard to say how much change was effected by the drop and how much by all new front end parts.
Still... wow! what a difference in handling, cornering, etc.
Make sure you get the correct alignment done after all the work is done.
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