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Old 11-20-2012, 10:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 65 289 cam

Hi, I have 65 with its original, untouched 289. I'm going to take the heads off and have them cleaned out and new seals put in. I plan on swapping cams at the same time. I just wanted to know if I need to put new lifters, pushrods, and a new timing chain in with the new cam. I plan on doing it next month, so the sooner I know the better. Thanks.
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:14 PM   #2 (permalink)
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cam and lifters need to be replaced as a unit, timing chain check for wear
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
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those push rods are hardened they should be fine to reuse
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Awesome. I'm looking at an Edelbrock kit that comes with the cam, lifters, and rods. So just to make sure, this kit does come with everything I need for the swap, right? Edelbrock Rollin' Thunder Hydraulic Roller Camshafts & Kits - JEGS
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:37 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Important Application Information:
Rollin Thunder Hydraulic Roller cams are for street high-performance and racing applications only - not for heavy vehicles. Use with Edelbrock Performer RPM heads (or other aftermarket heads), adjustable valvetrain components, screw-in studs, high performance adjustable rocker arms and at least 9.5:1 compression ratio. Headers, high-energy ignitions, lower-than-stock rear gearing and a high-performance torque converter (in auto. transmission equipped vehicles) are necessary.

Yes, you should replace the timing set. Yes, you should replace those tired old valve springs and stamped rocker arms or else you will probably find either or probably both breaking at some point in the near future. Yes, if you have a stock 289 it will sound "cooler" but without head work, headers, a decent intake and carb it will probably have little, no or less power than before.
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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yes, that kit has all that you will need. That is as long as your timing chain is still good. if it is not, then you need to replace it when you do the swap. you dont neccessarily need new pushrods but there is nothing wrong at all with getting a new set. Are you going to have any machine work done to the heads?
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
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In that case, what cam would you suggest I look at if I don't want to replace everything? I'm not going racing, I just want a little more power and a more aggressive sound.
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:42 PM   #8 (permalink)
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We are just planning on cleaning the heads out and replacing the oil seals. No major machining unless it's needed.
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:42 PM   #9 (permalink)
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How do I know what condition the timing chain is in?
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:46 PM   #10 (permalink)
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honestly im not too sure what cam you should run. I usually ask engine builders that question, cause it all depends on your motor. you could put in a cam that sounds awesome but does little to nothing for performance. so then your stuck with a parking lot cam. Since your down in So cal I assume that there are quite a few places that you could talk to that will help steer you in the right direction for the cam your looking for, so i would recommend you give then a ring. but at the very least make sure that you get a good new set of lifters to go with your new cam
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:49 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Look for wear, slack and etc
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:50 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I've talked to an engine builder near by and he just said to put an RV cam in it for more low-end torque. But that's only part of what I want. I just want something that sounds good and performs a little better than stock. Nothin' too nasty sounding.
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Old 11-20-2012, 11:55 PM   #13 (permalink)
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By "original untouched 289" I assume you mean that engine has never been apart to replace pistons, rings or anything else? If that's true I think you're wasting your time installing a new cam. Installing performance parts on a tired engine does no good.
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:01 AM   #14 (permalink)
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No it has never been apart. It's actually a very healthy engine with 78K on it, and no the odometer has not turned over at 100k.
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Old 11-21-2012, 12:12 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Most of us "old timers" can remember trading in when the mileage exceeded 80k because back then at 80k the motors were usually pretty tired. Not only was the technology a bit lacking, but at highway speeds the motors were cranking over double the rpms that modern engines do today and combustion byproducts were highly corrosive. Your engine may "run" okay but it's most likely closer in wear to a modern engine with 150k.
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