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Old 11-25-2012, 09:11 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Water Pump Question?

I'm new to all of this but I want to change my water pump to a hi flow water pump.. Question is: Is there any way of tell if your water pump has a back plate without removing it first..hope this isn't a dumb question but like I said I'm new to all of this...Tnx for any help.....
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Old 11-25-2012, 09:23 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Genehry View Post
I'm new to all of this but I want to change my water pump to a hi flow water pump.. Question is: Is there any way of tell if your water pump has a back plate without removing it first..hope this isn't a dumb question but like I said I'm new to all of this...Tnx for any help.....
Too easy. The early style is aluminum, the later style is iron. Why do you want high-flow, though? If your radiator isn't cutting it, a fancy pump won't help. I'm not aware of any high-flow replacement for the early pump.

The 289HP engine had a different pump, because it included curved vanes to prevent cavitation at high rpm. It's possible that this HP pump actually flowed at a slower rate than the standard pump.
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Old 11-25-2012, 09:32 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for the reply..so do you think I would be better off getting a bigger or aluminum radiator? It has been running kind of hot this past summer and it wasn't that hot here in Ohio..and still is there any way I can tell if the pump has a back plate since I would like to change it..any recommendations on water pumps..I just pick this car up last spring, I've been wanting one for a long time...
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Old 11-25-2012, 09:40 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Like I said, is it aluminum or iron?

As for heat, a brass 3-row radiator, fan shroud, 5-blade extra cooling fan (or preferally a 6-blade clutch fan) and OEM spec 190 thermostat is almost guranteed to solve any overheating problem.

Checking radiator function is easy. Using an IR gun, check the temp of the upper and lower hose at a fully heated idle. Temp drop should be 30 or so.
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Old 11-25-2012, 10:01 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks again for the info.. I'll have to check to see if its iron or aluminum.. So which one of the two has a back plate? I'll like to order one before I pull the old one of if possible...I have a row radiator in it now. Maybe a good flushing is in order..
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Old 11-25-2012, 10:56 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Early pump aluminum, no back

Later pump, castiron, backer plate.

Edelbrock makes high flow pump models for either design.

A high flow water pump can be a solution to certain overheating problems.

A car in good mechanical condition (read no bad head gaskets or cracks or leaks) with a radiator in good condition that overheats at speed or climbing hills will benefit from more water flow.

A friend with a Shelby vintage race car that would boil over on the track replaced just the pump and never boiled over again.

My Sunbeam tiger had all new components and still overheated on hills. Tigers are really tight on space so thicker or larger radiators are not an option.

I replaced the pump and the car runs 195 all the time even on steep hills on hot days.

A high flow pump is not the first thing to replace to fix a cooling problem, its the last, because there are so many other possible sources of overheating that you need to fix first.

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Old 11-25-2012, 11:22 AM   #7 (permalink)
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A fan shroud made all the difference for me.
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Old 11-25-2012, 11:37 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Great info! I agree a high performance water pump can help with overheating at sustained high speeds. But the vast majority of Mustang drivers have overheating issues at stoplights and when driving around town. For that all too common problem, a nice new radiator, shroud and clutch fan are probably the best options.

As for whether to get an aluminum or stock style radiator, one could debate that endlessly. I'd say it's yet another issue of personal preference. If you want the look of an aluminum radiator, go aluminum. If you want the factory look, don't go aluminum. Either type of radiator will keep a pony cool if it's setup right and in good working condition.

And I'll add that I've had good results from adding a bottle of "watter wetter" to the coolant. By itself, it won't fix a malfunctioning cooling system. But it will make a good cooling system work just a little better. It also makes the heater work better, but most Mustangs can keep the cabin quite toasty anyway.
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:12 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Great info! I agree a high performance water pump can help with overheating at sustained high speeds. But the vast majority of Mustang drivers have overheating issues at stoplights and when driving around town. For that all too common problem, a nice new radiator, shroud and clutch fan are probably the best options..

The flowkooler pumps have a great reputation for reducing engine temps in exactly the situation you mention: low speed driving. Their pumps will flow more coolant up to the 3000 rpm threshold. After that they flow the same as a stock pump. I've used their cast iron pumps over the past 10 years on three different cars & have been happy with the results. They also make the aluminum version.

Hi Flow Water Pumps that end overheating, Quality Jeep radiators and off road custom radiators for J | FlowKooler Water Pumps - Chevy, Dodge, Jeep, Ford, & more

FlowKooler Hi Flow Water Pumps


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Old 11-25-2012, 03:34 PM   #10 (permalink)
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My stang is just getting over a running a little hot problem. So maybe this will help you. It started as the temp gauge ran up just a little higher than I liked. So I replaced the thermostat, no change. So I replaced the waterpump and flushed the radiator. Still no change. But the fuel tank started leaking so I pulled the tank and while waiting for a tank desided to clean up the valve covers. This is when I noticed the rockers were pretty dry. Keep in mind the car ran great, no rattles, no power loss. I put the tank in and put an oil psi gauge to the engine only to find no oil psi. I replaced the oil pump and low and behold the car has oil psi again and it doesn't run warm. I find this odd that an oil pump can go out or at least be weak and not turn the light on nor destroy an engine. But it did. When a water pump goes bad it most times leaks. If it's not leaking you minght want to check oil psi.
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Old 11-25-2012, 05:23 PM   #11 (permalink)
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"......... I find this odd that an oil pump can go out or at least be weak and not turn the light on nor destroy an engine. But it did......."
You are now the luckiest person on the forum. Go buy a powerball ticket asap.

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Old 11-25-2012, 07:51 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Never had an overheating problem that was fixed by a new or remanufactured water pump, other than a pump that was leaking and caused low coolant.

Nor have I ever replaced a water pump and all of a sudden developed an overheating problem. Of course you could have it happen if you did such a thing like put the WRONG pump on....

If you have a cooling system that is in top shape and it won't keep the engine cool then the answer is to increase the efficiency of the RADIATOR, not increase the flow of the coolant. After all, if you have baseboard hot water heat in your house and you have a room that you can't get warm enough, a high-volume circulator pump isn't going to make a darned bit of difference, but adding more radiation will.
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Old 11-25-2012, 09:38 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by bartl View Post

If you have a cooling system that is in top shape and it won't keep the engine cool then the answer is to increase the efficiency of the RADIATOR, not increase the flow of the coolant. After all, if you have baseboard hot water heat in your house and you have a room that you can't get warm enough, a high-volume circulator pump isn't going to make a darned bit of difference, but adding more radiation will.
Agreed. And just as FYI, Milodon makes a high flow water pump for both the early and later timing covers. I only know this because I bought them both!
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Old 11-25-2012, 10:41 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Never had an overheating problem that was fixed by a new or remanufactured water pump........"
I have. Changing to a FlowKooler cast iron pump lowered my temp enough to eliminate a detonation issue I'd had with a HiPo 289 w/vintage Paxton without having to compromise on my desired ignition timing.


Quote:
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".........If you have a cooling system that is in top shape and it won't keep the engine cool then the answer is to increase the efficiency of the RADIATOR, not increase the flow of the coolant. ......"
This is only part of the answer. The cooling system parts have to be matched to each other and to the engine if you expect to have positive results. No one component can overcome all the shortcomings of another. The finest radiator in the world won't fix low speed overheating if the pump is not up to the task.


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