Media Blast Selection - Vintage Mustang Forums
Vintage Mustang Forum
HomeForumGalleryClassifiedsAbout UsAdvertiseContact Us
» Auto Insurance
» Featured Product
Go Back   Vintage Mustang Forums > General Discussion > Vintage Mustang Forum
Vintage-Mustang.com is the premier Ford Mustang Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 11-26-2012, 09:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 44
Default Media Blast Selection

We are in the process of disassembling our car (66 coupe) with the intent of then taking the shell (plus fenders, doors, hood, etc.) over to a media blaster to strip the paint off and then to a body/paint shop to repair any rust/damage and repaint. This is my first restoration project, so I'm learning as I go.

I've talked to two people so far who do media blasting (both of them are 1 man shops). Shop A, who came recommended by a body shop we are looking at using, gave us a rough quote of $1000 - $1200. Shop B, who came recommended by a colleague at work who had his brand x car stripped there, gave us a rough quote of $500 - $800. The colleague was charged $600 for his car, so I don't think he is just low balling me.

I was expecting the two quotes to be about the same, instead one is half the price of the other. I don't want to spend any more money than I have to, but I don't want to try to save $500 on media blasting only to then have to spend an extra $1000 on body work because the media blasting screwed something up.

How much should I be paying to get a '66 coupe fully stripped (interior, exterior, underside)? I live in the Phoenix area if region matters.

What questions should I be asking in order to determine if the person knows what they are doing and will do a good job?

Last edited by TFrancis; 11-26-2012 at 11:11 PM.
TFrancis is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 11-26-2012, 10:39 PM   #2 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
bartl's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: West Rutland, Vermont, USA
Posts: 17,054
Default

Ask them what media they will be using. I've heard of guys that can use aluminum oxide (black beauty) at a lower pressure and claim they won't hurt the metal but for me I'd only use it on heavier stuff like axle housings, spindles, other cast or heavy stamped items, otherwise I'd be leaning toward plastic pellets or soda.

Option #2 is chemical dipping. This will remove the paint AND the rust in places you can AND can't see and, in the end, provides (I think) a more complete and clean piece to start with.
__________________


6F09A 63A 8 26 09D 71 1 5
bartl is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-26-2012, 11:02 PM   #3 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,669
Default

I learned the hard way on media blasting. Took original hood door, trunk lid, and fenders to blaster who swore he has done tens of cars and not warped any panels. Well warped all the pieces except the door. I would not take any panels to blaster. Shell maybe but qtrs I blasted trunk underside and engine bay myself. Used chemical stripper on everything else. Messy but safer that way.
palerider is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-26-2012, 11:12 PM   #4 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Israel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Nawlins, LA.
Posts: 4,268
Default

As with all things, check and double check references,............ then follow up on them again.


There seems to be a VERY wide range out there, I also have seen/heard ranges from 500 - 2,000
__________________
Wife,........."You drove how far for that thing?"
Daughter,..."Theres no inside and it stinks."
Friend,......."Dude, thats a rusted piece of sheet."
Son,.........."This old car is cool."

USMC Security Forces, Kamiseya Japan, 0311

Build Thread: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vi...sted-pile.html
Israel is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-26-2012, 11:35 PM   #5 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
chillininnh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Laconia, NH
Posts: 1,174
Default

It's also a good idea to get the car epoxy primed quickly after the blasting. I found a guy in my area who blasted with plastic media (on a rotisserie) and followed it up with a direct to metal epoxy primer for $1800.
__________________


69 Mach 1 H-code 418W/TKO600/Holley Terminator EFI/RMP Front Coil-Over/TCP Manual R&P/3.70 Auburn Pro/Global West SFC-5 Leafs-Del-A-Lum/Koni's/Magnaflow 2.5 X pipe

Build pictures:

http://s63.photobucket.com/albums/h127/chillininnh/
chillininnh is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-27-2012, 12:05 AM   #6 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Mustmatt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 871
Default

I've heard soda blasting was good because there's less friction/heat that warps the panels. I never tried it though. I used a chemical stripper and electric Makita sander to strip the paint. It was very messy and created a lot of dust. It didn't cost much though.

I got away with bare metal exposed for months without developing rust here in So Cal. If there's a lot of moisture in the climate, I'd do what Chillininh said, get it epoxy coated.
Mustmatt is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-27-2012, 06:32 AM   #7 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Hudson fl gulf coast north of tampa
Posts: 1,365
Default

I did a 67 coupe shell here in FL cost $600 came out great sold it via craigs have the next 67 coupe on the rostereii here got the price down to $400 for this one ..
hughnews1 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-27-2012, 07:11 AM   #8 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
mjb1032's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Southeast, MA
Posts: 1,610
Default

TF,
I had my 68 Coupe done, and was told it depends on the substrate.
Different areas of the body will require different media materials.
A course sand works in tight areas on rust, a finer media shells/plastic bead is better for panels. Problems occur when the blasters don't want to take the time to make the change, they try to "move fast" with the course sand on panels.
Thinking they won't warp them.
Here's a few pics...










Chillinin, FWIW, I was quoted the same price for blast & epoxy.
mb
__________________
Slowly restoring and improving dads '68 289 Coupe...

Last edited by mjb1032; 11-27-2012 at 07:14 AM.
mjb1032 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-27-2012, 08:53 AM   #9 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
ToneMT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: MT, USA
Posts: 875
Default

I did soda on panels and then aluminum oxide on the rest in my friends pasture .... regardless of what is used - ensure proper cleaning, neutralization (esp with soda), and protection from flash rust.




with new battery apron, radiator crossmember/support, cowl vents, and both front rails...going to the metal helped me find problems I didnt even know I had....so be prepared

As far as the cost, I had called around and most gave rough estimates from $75 - 100/hr plus media...so ask why the difference and also how do they control for warping. A fellow I knew convinced me I could do it and save money...but its a lot of work...
__________________

1968 Mustang Convertible: Rest/Mod Start Feb 2012 - Ended Sept 2012 with first car show
1964 MGB Restored and supercharged
1991 300zx - a work in progress
277 Photos of this restoration (photobucket)
/ 2013 Walk around video
http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...h_IMG_6367.jpg
http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...ps254e2155.jpg

Last edited by ToneMT; 11-27-2012 at 08:57 AM.
ToneMT is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-27-2012, 10:29 AM   #10 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Maxd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Mesa, Arizona
Posts: 328
Default

Just a word on soda blasting. I read that no paint manufacturer will warrant thier product on a car that's been soda blasted. Adhesion problems.
__________________
I think I have carport tunnel syndrom
Maxd is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-27-2012, 12:55 PM   #11 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 7,069
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxd View Post
Just a word on soda blasting. I read that no paint manufacturer will warrant thier product on a car that's been soda blasted. Adhesion problems.
Barry at SPI specifically states on his website to call him about this same issue if using his epoxy after soda blasting.

Be very careful about soda blasting.
__________________
2015 GT Fastback - Deep Impact Blue On order!
1995 GT convertible - Black (Son's ride)
1966 GT Fastback under restoration- Code T Red
with White LeMans stripes.
ScottsGT is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-27-2012, 01:22 PM   #12 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
ToneMT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: MT, USA
Posts: 875
Default

I did hold tight 101 to neutralize the soda - no issues with the PPG paint
__________________

1968 Mustang Convertible: Rest/Mod Start Feb 2012 - Ended Sept 2012 with first car show
1964 MGB Restored and supercharged
1991 300zx - a work in progress
277 Photos of this restoration (photobucket)
/ 2013 Walk around video
http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...h_IMG_6367.jpg
http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...ps254e2155.jpg
ToneMT is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-27-2012, 08:18 PM   #13 (permalink)
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 44
Default

Thanks for all the feedback. We are planning on having a coat of primer right after media blast. We're in Phoenix, so not a lot of moisture. But it can still be an issue. A friend had his car media blasted during the summer. It rained and it rusted it a bit. He went to sand the rust off of it and was sweating so bad from the 110 degree weather that he was dripping on the car creating more rust.

Will ask more about the media they use and if they change media for different sections of the car.
TFrancis is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 11-27-2012, 10:21 PM   #14 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Fordrevhead's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Adirondacks of NY
Posts: 307
Default

I have done a couple of my own cars in the last few years. I dont know how I did it so easily 15 yrs ago in my 20s. Anyway, good advice already, but no one mentioned it does vary on the car. Is it slathered with undercoating? If they find a very bad area will they leave it knowing it will be cut off? Once it is cut off, often exposing other rust areas how will you deal with those? Long story short I wouldnt blast even a clean body for less than 6 or 700 and thats cash money and only if I really needed the cash. If i were in it as a business $1000 or more.
__________________

...FRH

1964.5 Coupe
1970 Coupe
2011 GT/CS
Fordrevhead is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-01-2012, 06:03 PM   #15 (permalink)
Senior Member
 
Israel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Nawlins, LA.
Posts: 4,268
Default media blasting

Quote:
Originally Posted by hughnews1 View Post
I did a 67 coupe shell here in FL cost $600 came out great sold it via craigs have the next 67 coupe on the rostereii here got the price down to $400 for this one ..

Tell me about this,....
__________________
Wife,........."You drove how far for that thing?"
Daughter,..."Theres no inside and it stinks."
Friend,......."Dude, thats a rusted piece of sheet."
Son,.........."This old car is cool."

USMC Security Forces, Kamiseya Japan, 0311

Build Thread: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vi...sted-pile.html
Israel is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Vintage Mustang Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:09 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.3.2 ©2009, Crawlability, Inc.