Media Blast Selection - Vintage Mustang Forums

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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 10:57 PM Thread Starter
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Media Blast Selection

We are in the process of disassembling our car (66 coupe) with the intent of then taking the shell (plus fenders, doors, hood, etc.) over to a media blaster to strip the paint off and then to a body/paint shop to repair any rust/damage and repaint. This is my first restoration project, so I'm learning as I go.

I've talked to two people so far who do media blasting (both of them are 1 man shops). Shop A, who came recommended by a body shop we are looking at using, gave us a rough quote of $1000 - $1200. Shop B, who came recommended by a colleague at work who had his brand x car stripped there, gave us a rough quote of $500 - $800. The colleague was charged $600 for his car, so I don't think he is just low balling me.

I was expecting the two quotes to be about the same, instead one is half the price of the other. I don't want to spend any more money than I have to, but I don't want to try to save $500 on media blasting only to then have to spend an extra $1000 on body work because the media blasting screwed something up.

How much should I be paying to get a '66 coupe fully stripped (interior, exterior, underside)? I live in the Phoenix area if region matters.

What questions should I be asking in order to determine if the person knows what they are doing and will do a good job?

Last edited by TFrancis; 11-27-2012 at 12:11 AM.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-26-2012, 11:39 PM
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Ask them what media they will be using. I've heard of guys that can use aluminum oxide (black beauty) at a lower pressure and claim they won't hurt the metal but for me I'd only use it on heavier stuff like axle housings, spindles, other cast or heavy stamped items, otherwise I'd be leaning toward plastic pellets or soda.

Option #2 is chemical dipping. This will remove the paint AND the rust in places you can AND can't see and, in the end, provides (I think) a more complete and clean piece to start with.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 12:02 AM
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I learned the hard way on media blasting. Took original hood door, trunk lid, and fenders to blaster who swore he has done tens of cars and not warped any panels. Well warped all the pieces except the door. I would not take any panels to blaster. Shell maybe but qtrs I blasted trunk underside and engine bay myself. Used chemical stripper on everything else. Messy but safer that way.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 12:12 AM
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As with all things, check and double check references,............ then follow up on them again.


There seems to be a VERY wide range out there, I also have seen/heard ranges from 500 - 2,000

Wife,........."You drove how far for that thing?"
Daughter,..."Theres no inside and it stinks."
Friend,......."Dude, thats a rusted piece of sheet."
Son,.........."This old car is cool."

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 12:35 AM
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It's also a good idea to get the car epoxy primed quickly after the blasting. I found a guy in my area who blasted with plastic media (on a rotisserie) and followed it up with a direct to metal epoxy primer for $1800.



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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 01:05 AM
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I've heard soda blasting was good because there's less friction/heat that warps the panels. I never tried it though. I used a chemical stripper and electric Makita sander to strip the paint. It was very messy and created a lot of dust. It didn't cost much though.

I got away with bare metal exposed for months without developing rust here in So Cal. If there's a lot of moisture in the climate, I'd do what Chillininh said, get it epoxy coated.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 07:32 AM
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I did a 67 coupe shell here in FL cost $600 came out great sold it via craigs have the next 67 coupe on the rostereii here got the price down to $400 for this one ..
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 08:11 AM
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TF,
I had my 68 Coupe done, and was told it depends on the substrate.
Different areas of the body will require different media materials.
A course sand works in tight areas on rust, a finer media shells/plastic bead is better for panels. Problems occur when the blasters don't want to take the time to make the change, they try to "move fast" with the course sand on panels.
Thinking they won't warp them.
Here's a few pics...










Chillinin, FWIW, I was quoted the same price for blast & epoxy.
mb

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Last edited by mjb1032; 11-27-2012 at 08:14 AM.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 09:53 AM
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I did soda on panels and then aluminum oxide on the rest in my friends pasture .... regardless of what is used - ensure proper cleaning, neutralization (esp with soda), and protection from flash rust.




with new battery apron, radiator crossmember/support, cowl vents, and both front rails...going to the metal helped me find problems I didnt even know I had....so be prepared

As far as the cost, I had called around and most gave rough estimates from $75 - 100/hr plus media...so ask why the difference and also how do they control for warping. A fellow I knew convinced me I could do it and save money...but its a lot of work...

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Last edited by ToneMT; 11-27-2012 at 09:57 AM.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 11:29 AM
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Just a word on soda blasting. I read that no paint manufacturer will warrant thier product on a car that's been soda blasted. Adhesion problems.

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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 01:55 PM
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Just a word on soda blasting. I read that no paint manufacturer will warrant thier product on a car that's been soda blasted. Adhesion problems.
Barry at SPI specifically states on his website to call him about this same issue if using his epoxy after soda blasting.

Be very careful about soda blasting.

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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 02:22 PM
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I did hold tight 101 to neutralize the soda - no issues with the PPG paint

1968 Mustang Convertible: Rest/Mod Start Feb 2012 - Ended Sept 2012 with first car show
1963 MGB Restored and supercharged
1991 300zx - a work in progress
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/ 2013 Walk around video
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post #13 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the feedback. We are planning on having a coat of primer right after media blast. We're in Phoenix, so not a lot of moisture. But it can still be an issue. A friend had his car media blasted during the summer. It rained and it rusted it a bit. He went to sand the rust off of it and was sweating so bad from the 110 degree weather that he was dripping on the car creating more rust.

Will ask more about the media they use and if they change media for different sections of the car.
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post #14 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-27-2012, 11:21 PM
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I have done a couple of my own cars in the last few years. I dont know how I did it so easily 15 yrs ago in my 20s. Anyway, good advice already, but no one mentioned it does vary on the car. Is it slathered with undercoating? If they find a very bad area will they leave it knowing it will be cut off? Once it is cut off, often exposing other rust areas how will you deal with those? Long story short I wouldnt blast even a clean body for less than 6 or 700 and thats cash money and only if I really needed the cash. If i were in it as a business $1000 or more.


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post #15 of 18 (permalink) Old 12-01-2012, 07:03 PM
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media blasting

Quote:
Originally Posted by hughnews1 View Post
I did a 67 coupe shell here in FL cost $600 came out great sold it via craigs have the next 67 coupe on the rostereii here got the price down to $400 for this one ..

Tell me about this,....

Wife,........."You drove how far for that thing?"
Daughter,..."Theres no inside and it stinks."
Friend,......."Dude, thats a rusted piece of sheet."
Son,.........."This old car is cool."

USMC Security Forces, Kamiseya Japan, 0311

Build Thread: http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vi...sted-pile.html
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