I have a 65 coupe w/302 4 speed and want to convert to a 5 speed. What is the best way to approach this. What kind of transmission, can I keep the same bell housing, I'm running a z-bar know, do I stay with this or should I go with cable or hyd? Any info would be helpful.
I have a 65 coupe w/302 4 speed and want to convert to a 5 speed. What is the best way to approach this. What kind of transmission, can I keep the same bell housing, I'm running a z-bar know, do I stay with this or should I go with cable or hyd? Any info would be helpful.
Thanks
You could convert to 5-speed in about 4 hours. All you need is a bellhousing adapter plate, crossmember, trans, shift lever, and speedo cable. You won't even need to disturb your clutch, or remove the bellhousing.
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Amateur restorer. (Well, once in a while I have been paid for it)
You could convert to 5-speed in about 4 hours. All you need is a bellhousing adapter plate, crossmember, trans, shift lever, and speedo cable. You won't even need to disturb your clutch, or remove the bellhousing.
Some other old timer will chime in here but years ago there was a conversion for adding a 5 speed into the existing 4speeds (T10)..very inexpensive IIRR too and could easily be done in a day.
Get ready to REALLY enjoy the ride. I pulled out an AOD to put in a T-5. Yeah, you can buy a used tranny, but I bought a new T-5 from Summit as it has the correct 1st gear (read up on that) This was in my 66 377 stroke GT coupe.
And, if you have a modified engine, you might want to go with a Lakewood or McLeod safety bellhousing if you like to walk. With the Lakewood, I also installed a hydraulic cluth release setup. Yeah, more dough.
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Roddster
67 GT 350 (#0036)("Miss July" 2004) owned since 1971. And I still drive it...SAAC 29 Concours GOLD, Div II, MCA Concours Trailered Gold 2X,
Also: 67 GTA S code COUPE (under construction)
General Shelby and Mustang enthusiast, MCA certified Concours judge
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 22GT
You could convert to 5-speed in about 4 hours. All you need is a bellhousing adapter plate, crossmember, trans, shift lever, and speedo cable. You won't even need to disturb your clutch, or remove the bellhousing.
22GT, are you saying that the original speedometer cable won't work with T5 conversion?
you might want to check out mustangsteve's cable conversion... it was an easy install and hell while you're making the tranny better might as well make the linkage better (i think it was about 300 with the pedal)...
or you can always add it later on! What clutch do you have in it?
Just finished this project on my car! Using the T5 bellhousing.
I purchased the transmission, bellhousing and shield all from a local recycle yard for $75. Then I purchased a set of G-Force gears and had a local transmission shop do the rebuild. I purchased the transmission cross member and mount, speedo cable and gear, pressure plate, clutch disc, throw out bearing and the cable clutch conversion all from Modern Driveline. I purchased a new flywheel from Summit Racing. New Pro5.0 shifter from CJ Pony and a new Hurst shifter rod from StreetSide Auto.
My original plan was to use the T5 components (bellhousing, clutch fork, bearing) with the cable clutch conversion that I installed before the motor, headers and trans were in the car. After installing the motor, headers and bellhousing I found out that the brand of headers I have (Hooker Comps) didn’t allow for the room needed the route the clutch cable without toasting it, so I removed it. If you are going to use the clutch cable conversion make sure your exhaust is stock or the headers will work with the clutch cable (lesson learned). If you are interested in the cable clutch conversion talk to me because I will part with mine. Currently I put everything together with the stock z-bar setup and the 65 style clutch fork/bearing but plan to take it apart in spring to put in a hydraulic clutch … couldn’t do it then because wife is in charge of the checkbook and told me I have spent enough this year … In my mind there is no such thing as enough but who wants to fight with a woman!
You will need to decide IF you want to go with a new flywheel (157 tooth) or use the 65 flywheel (167 tooth). You can use the old starter if you use the older flywheel but it should be from an automatic not a manual car. I bought a new mini starter and went with a new flywheel.
If you use the T5 bellhousing you need to purchase a fulcrum spacer/block to relocate the clutch fork back to its original position because the T5 bellhousing is deeper. I purchased this piece from CJ Pony. You have to drill two holes to mount it but its an easy job.
When I installed the transmission I was hitting the floorboards and didnt have enough room to mate the trans to the block. Im using TCP motor mounts and there is no flex or movement in the motor block so I supported the motor with 2x4’s and floor jack, removed the large mounting bolts and replaced with smaller bolts then jacked the motor a little at the oil pan to give me the room needed to bolt everything together. Then went back and put the large bolts back in the motor mounts. I thought that was going to be a fight but they went back in real easy. The Modern Driveline transmission cross member and mount fit without a problem and I was able to hookup the stock emergency brake system. The last thing you will need is a shorter driveshaft and the correct T5 yoke. I had this project done in one day with time to make it to local race track that Saturday evening.
Just finished this project on my car! Using the T5 bellhousing.
I purchased the transmission, bellhousing and shield all from a local recycle yard for $75. Then I purchased a set of G-Force gears and had a local transmission shop do the rebuild. I purchased the transmission cross member and mount, speedo cable and gear, pressure plate, clutch disc, throw out bearing and the cable clutch conversion all from Modern Driveline. I purchased a new flywheel from Summit Racing. New Pro5.0 shifter from CJ Pony and a new Hurst shifter rod from StreetSide Auto.
My original plan was to use the T5 components (bellhousing, clutch fork, bearing) with the cable clutch conversion that I installed before the motor, headers and trans were in the car. After installing the motor, headers and bellhousing I found out that the brand of headers I have (Hooker Comps) didn’t allow for the room needed the route the clutch cable without toasting it, so I removed it. If you are going to use the clutch cable conversion make sure your exhaust is stock or the headers will work with the clutch cable (lesson learned). If you are interested in the cable clutch conversion talk to me because I will part with mine. Currently I put everything together with the stock z-bar setup and the 65 style clutch fork/bearing but plan to take it apart in spring to put in a hydraulic clutch … couldn’t do it then because wife is in charge of the checkbook and told me I have spent enough this year … In my mind there is no such thing as enough but who wants to fight with a woman!
You will need to decide IF you want to go with a new flywheel (157 tooth) or use the 65 flywheel (167 tooth). You can use the old starter if you use the older flywheel but it should be from an automatic not a manual car. I bought a new mini starter and went with a new flywheel.
If you use the T5 bellhousing you need to purchase a fulcrum spacer/block to relocate the clutch fork back to its original position because the T5 bellhousing is deeper. I purchased this piece from CJ Pony. You have to drill two holes to mount it but its an easy job.
When I installed the transmission I was hitting the floorboards and didnt have enough room to mate the trans to the block. Im using TCP motor mounts and there is no flex or movement in the motor block so I supported the motor with 2x4’s and floor jack, removed the large mounting bolts and replaced with smaller bolts then jacked the motor a little at the oil pan to give me the room needed to bolt everything together. Then went back and put the large bolts back in the motor mounts. I thought that was going to be a fight but they went back in real easy. The Modern Driveline transmission cross member and mount fit without a problem and I was able to hookup the stock emergency brake system. The last thing you will need is a shorter driveshaft and the correct T5 yoke. I had this project done in one day with time to make it to local race track that Saturday evening.
you can piece together cheaper then modern has the components but if you want it all and at one time yeah just go to them!
I highly recommend the conversion also.
I used the T5 Bell housing and converted to a 10.5 in modern clutch (King Cobra). I had to get a new fly wheel (28 oz imbalance) to mount the 10.5 clutch.
I decided to go hydraulic for the actuator and it was about $220
Pics and info of my lessons learned: How to ID a T5 T5 Hydraulic clutch Drive shaft 3.55 Trac Lok Rear
Did the conversion for about $1200 including the used 89 T5 i got for $350
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Good Luck and BE Safe Ron http://chris66dad.tripod.com
Father~Son restoration project
A code 66 coupe
289 4v, Roller Rockers, Electric fan
Performer & 650 Edelbrock
MSD ignition
Tri Y into 2.25 Shelby side exhaust
T5 conversion and 3.55 Trac Lok
Hydraulic clutch
CSRP SN95 Discs
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5 speed conversion
