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Old 11-29-2012, 01:32 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 428CJ build up and seats..

I just recently obtained a 69 Mustang with a 428CJ engine, its a stock engine. I was wonder what you guys would suggest to help push more power out of it. I'm not looking for anything to extreme, just some decent power increase, you know to throw you back in the seat a little more. Also it has 73 seats in the car, should I buy original mach 1 seats? or should I buy all the upholstery and have someone do it for me. Haven't found a place that just has complete seats just the kits. Thank in advance.

-Anthony
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Old 11-29-2012, 12:51 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Well, do you want to shave some weight off the front end, or does that really matter? If it matters, then the Edelbrock aluminum heads are real popular along with an aluminum Blue Thunder CJ style intake manifold. The 428CJ used the 390GT camshaft, but there are a few others on the market that will work a little better but not be too racey. Just check out the specs of each cam and pay attention to the power band range. You don't want anything that makes power past 6000rpms, unless you want to do some expensive motor mods.

If you don't care about the weight issue, then the factory CJ heads are more than enough. The intake ports are hugh already. And the exhaust just need a little work to open them up. I have pics of my port work if you are interested. It doesn't take much at all really. Up grade to stainless steel valves if the valve seats are in good condition and don't need replacement. Also, for a more original look grab a Gt500 C7AE intake manifold in aluminum. You can paint it blue if you want and it is nearly identical to the factory CJ cast iron manifold and will net you a few extra horses to boot.

If you go the header route, seriously consider the FPAs or Dougs if you don't have power steering. Upgrade to a Pertronix "under-the-cap" ignition module and a good 45,000 volt coil for the ignition. Carbs are up in the air for preference. The engine could use a few mods to help the oiling system out a little if you are going that deep into her. Just Google FE oil mods and there is a ton out there. Just don't get to wild thought. Also, a nice set of roller rocker arm assemblies will help a lot. You can do either the rockers on stock stands and shafts or get complete assemblies. I would recommend compete assemblies if you run stiffer valve springs.

Check out ebay for seats. I see them there often. If you have never done a set of seats have an upholstery shop do them for you as I have heard they are a real pain. I haven't gotten around to doing mine yet so I don't know. Hope that helps. Good luck and have fun Bruce
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Old 11-29-2012, 01:59 PM   #3 (permalink)
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If the engine is truly all stock then for what it's worth, here's my opinion for the most bang for the buck with the best end results.
Go with an Edelbrock Performer RPM (not plain Perfomer) intake - its the best single 4 carb FE intake hands down. Pick a camshaft with no more that .550" lift with 110 to 112 lobe separation angle and 230 to 235 degrees duration at .050" lift for the most power and have it be streetable. The Comp Cams Magnum 280H is a good choice. Headers are a must, I prefer Hooker Super Comps - they will give you the most horsepower of any other option, but you will have less ground clearance than others. With the few header selections out there you are looking at a compromise any way you look at it, so I say pick the one that gives the most horsepower. You will want to have your distributor recurved for the advance to come in early and aggressively and run about 38 degrees total. I prefer to run a Pertronix Ignitor points eliminator kit along with their coil also to retain a close to stock look. The stock carb will be more than up to the task with these mods but you will need to rejet it and run a more aggressive accelerator pump cam and maybe even increase discharge the nozzle size.
With those mods alone you will have an honest 450 horsepower. The Edelbrock heads are awesome, but not necessary unless you want to get serious about making huge horsepower.
The only other thing I would do is upgrade the stock rocker shafts and stands assemblies to something more modern as it will be worth the expense as added insurance. The stock shafts are prone to breaking the ends off.
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Old 11-29-2012, 02:29 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Very good advice above. You don't say if it's an original R or Q code but if it is, and originality is important to you be sure to keep all the components you remove from the engine as it will be worth considerably more money as original if you decide to ever sell.
Another option, you also don't say anything about the rest of the drivetrain but if you have a high rear gear you will get a lot of "seat of the pants" acceleration feel by changing to a lower rear gear and upgrading to a locking differential. The 428CJ is a good performer as-is but a few tweaks will really wake it up.
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Old 11-29-2012, 03:13 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Heads, intake & carburetor, exhaust.
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Old 11-29-2012, 05:40 PM   #6 (permalink)
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For what it's worth, I ran Hooker Super Comps (#6114) on a 67 GT500 that had the upper control arms lowered (some may know as this as the "Shelby drop") so the front end sat aprox. 1.5" lower than stock.

The only ground clearance problem I ever had was when driving over speed bumps. The collector flange would scrape, but if I drove over them slow enough it didn't cause any other damage.
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Old 11-29-2012, 06:59 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Thanks everyone for the advice. First off the engine out of a different mustang. This car now its it was originally a 390 car. I planned on making sure I kept every little thing off the engine to make sure I could preserve them. Also I'm not to worry about clearance.
I plan on making it a 5 speed car, it was originally a 4 speed car. Whats in it now is a built automatic with a ratchet shifter with 3 gear, it is also long geared, so I planned on changing that too. For the distributor and ignition, it came with a MSD set up. So from what you guys have given me for ideas to think about these are the parts I've come up with:

Headers
6114-1HKR Mustang Hooker Super Comp Headers Ceramic 390 / 428 1967-1970 | CJ Pony Parts

Intake
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ed...view/make/ford

Heads (Are these the ones you mentioned?)
60069 Mustang 390-428 Cobra Jet Performer RPM Alum Cylinder Head Each | CJ Pony Parts

Eliminator kit
Pertronix Ignitor Points Eliminator Kit, 1957-74 Ford V8 - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

Cam
COMP Cams: Magnum, 280H
Works Best in Street Machines, Rough Idle


-Anthony
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Old 11-29-2012, 07:24 PM   #8 (permalink)
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In my opinion the stock heads even unported are perfectly fine for a street car, especially if you just want something to modify a little and have something to drive without too much effort and time spent as well as money for that matter.

If however you are leaning more toward a engine rebuild complete with pulling the engine and money is of no object, there is a better alternative to the Edelbrock heads that just became available actually. Survival Motorsports which is a well known FE engine specialty shop has just released their own version of an FE cylinder head which is quite a bit better: FE Stroker Kit Tech

If this is more the route you are leaning towards there are other things you'll want to consider also like oiling mods and updating the whole rotating assy with modern stronger parts including a possible stroker kit also.
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Old 11-29-2012, 08:58 PM   #9 (permalink)
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For me the goal at the moment is just to have a street car that on that weekends I could hotrod at the track and get some decent times. So I'll just hold off on the heads like you said.

-Anthony
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Old 11-29-2012, 10:48 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Tongue 428

Nehl, is that a real 428CJ ? If it is the heads don't need to be replaced by E-boks---they'll be just fine as they are. The Edelbrocks, uported, aren't really any better than the 428CJ casting. They ARE better than the C8AE-H castings that most off the 360s and 390s got... ...what is the casting number on your heads....IIRC a CJ should have C8OE-N heads. On the intake, I would use a Blue Thunder instead of the RPM Perf, it performs better, and looks much more like factory, and the shaker can will be in the right spot, if you have one. I'd seriously think about doing the oil passage between the pump and the filter pad.......yes it can be done with the engine in the car. Pain in the butt, but do-able. And ignore what the dipstick say, or remark the stick, and run with 6 quarts of oil all of the time. LSG

Last edited by LSG; 11-29-2012 at 10:49 PM. Reason: fat fingers
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Old 11-30-2012, 12:32 AM   #11 (permalink)
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They are CJ heads, but the exact number not sure I'd have to go look, can't remember off top of my head. I was looking at the Blue Thunder Intakes which do your recommend? I was looking on the site and theres a few to choose from I'm not exactly sure what the best would be.

Blue Thunder

Thanks for all the help guys, I really appericate it. Helping learn a lot.

-Anthony
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Old 11-30-2012, 08:26 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nehlssmith View Post
Thanks everyone for the advice. First off the engine out of a different mustang. This car now its it was originally a 390 car. I planned on making sure I kept every little thing off the engine to make sure I could preserve them. Also I'm not to worry about clearance.
I plan on making it a 5 speed car, it was originally a 4 speed car. Whats in it now is a built automatic with a ratchet shifter with 3 gear, it is also long geared, so I planned on changing that too. For the distributor and ignition, it came with a MSD set up. So from what you guys have given me for ideas to think about these are the parts I've come up with:

Headers
6114-1HKR Mustang Hooker Super Comp Headers Ceramic 390 / 428 1967-1970 | CJ Pony Parts

Intake
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ed...view/make/ford

Heads (Are these the ones you mentioned?)
60069 Mustang 390-428 Cobra Jet Performer RPM Alum Cylinder Head Each | CJ Pony Parts

Eliminator kit
Pertronix Ignitor Points Eliminator Kit, 1957-74 Ford V8 - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

Cam
COMP Cams: Magnum, 280H
Works Best in Street Machines, Rough Idle


-Anthony
This combo will run great, but you may want to consider a 282S Comp Cams with adjustable rockers, a little more power and great manners

Also, spend the money to have the distributor recurved as well as adding the Pertronix

I replied to the other post, but regardless, now that we have an idea how deep you are willing to go, what you have there is a great combo

FWIW, I'd sell the CJ intake and heads to someone that needs them for a resto. They are decent but by the time you rebuild them, they get expensive.

A little different than my post in the other thread, but I thought it was an original CJ car then

Also, the BT intake is a good piece too, 6 of one, 1/2 dozen of the other. The RPM may make a little more power on the top, but not significantly more
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Old 12-02-2012, 05:52 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Tongue intake

Nehl, on the intakes, I like the 427MR version, in std carb flange. The smaller port opening matches what the Edels and the MR heads if you ever get a chance to upgrade. And it would duplicate the smaller intake into bigger head port setup the CJ had from the factory, which seemed to work just fine. LSG
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