Speedo Cable Melting

[ricer333]

Currently the speedo cable is routed over/around the brake lines that is running down the firewall. This is causing the speedo cable to nearly lie across the driver's side exhaust and seemingly melt. I have attached a picture to give some reference to what I am talking about.

My question is, should I re-route the speedo cable to be between the brake line and the firewall. It appears to have enough space there. Would this solve the issue of the speedo cable laying across the exhaust and melting? Or is there an alternative solution?

If re-routing is the answer, I believe the easiest thing to do is to disconnect from the cluster in the cabin and thread the speedo cable down through the firewall, right?

Thanks all in advance! I'd like to tackle this today.

[MrKevin64.5]

I would definately re-route it. I don't know the "correct" route, but I'm pretty sure there are supposed to be clips on the trans tunnel or firewall to hold it in the correct place.

It may be easier to disconnect from the trans and re-route - on my 65 the cable is a bit difficult to get to on the back of the speedometer. Then you still have to get the fairy stiff cable around the carpet and through the sheetmetal.

[ricer333]

Originally Posted by MrKevin64.5

I would definately re-route it. I don't know the "correct" route, but I'm pretty sure there are supposed to be clips on the trans tunnel or firewall to hold it in the correct place.

It may be easier to disconnect from the trans and re-route - on my 65 the cable is a bit difficult to get to on the back of the speedometer. Then you still have to get the fairy stiff cable around the carpet and through the sheetmetal.

Is there anything special to note from removing it from the transmission that I should know about? I've never done this before. I'm familar enought with the 4-speed toploader as I have already changed the oil that was in there. I know and can see where the speedo cable goes into the transmission. I wasn't sure if there was any risk of damage. More 'fear of the unknown' than anything else.

Thanks!

Also, if anyone has any tips on re-routing, I'd love to hear them. Again, my only idea right now is to place it between the brake line and the firewall.

[bartl]

I'd re-route but remember you don't want any sharp bends or kinks. Get some cable clamps at the hardware store to hold it in place.

When removing at the transmission end the things to remember are a) don't lose the retaining clamp and b) don't get the driven gear full of crap. Wrap the end of the cable in tinfoil or a sandwich bag held on with a rubber band to protect it while you are snaking it in and around the engine compartment.

[Greg'66 5.0]

If you want some additional protection for the cable, before you reinstall it, slip it through a thermal protective sleeve. I used it once on an old truck that I had that would stall for no apparent reason - turns out the fuel line was close to the exhaust and the fuel was getting hot enough to vaporize and basically vapor-lock the engine. I never had any more problems once the sleeve was installed. It comes in different sizes, so you would have to pick the right size for you cable. Here's an example:
Thermo Tec 14010 Thermo-Tec Thermo-Sleeve Insulation

[ricer333]

Some Google searching on the matter has led me to a VMF thread: '65 3-speed versus 4-speed speedometer cable routing

It seems that the hole that my current speedo cable was routed through leads to the melting issue that I have along with a quick bend. Post #14 in that thread explains the situation I'm having.

That thread has a pic of the floor boards without carpeting. They speak to a hole in the 'trans cover' but I'm a little confused to which hole that is. Post #10 is the picture.

It would be helpful if someone could please look at that old thread and let me know. I'm looking at replacing the speedo cable now since I have it fully disconnected and I'll tell you the melting is worse off than I originally though.

Also, there is supposed to be some sort of bracket to keep it off the passenger side exhaust. Another VMF thread lists the part as AMK part #B-13387 (thread: Speedo Cable routing and attachement)

It'd still be helpful to have a diagram of the exact routing of the 4 speed toploader speedo cable routing. I'll keep searching and if I find anything I'll post back. If anyone can answer the question about the hole out from cabin to engine compartment, I'd be appreciative.

Thanks!

[bartl]

Originally Posted by ricer333

That thread has a pic of the floor boards without carpeting. They speak to a hole in the 'trans cover' but I'm a little confused to which hole that is. Post #10 is the picture.

It's the one on the top, left of the front of the trans tunnel, about where you'd rest the toe of your right foot if you were not pressing on the gas...

[22GT]

The 4-speed cable hole was only pierced on 4-speed cars.

There were two cable clips on 4-speed cars, one at about the passengers left big toe, and the other on the trans crossmember. Both are available new.

[ricer333]

I've downloaded a copy and modified it quickly in paint to point to the hole that 22GT and bartl have suggested... or as I have interpreted from their suggestions. Guys, can you please confirm? I'm heading out to pull the carpet back a bit to see if the hole is punched.

[22GT]

That is correct.

[ricer333]

I have confirmed that I do not have the hole in the trans cover. The only hole I have that is not currently filled is the one in the firewall just to the right of the e-brake cable and just below the steering column. This was the original place that the speedometer cable went out and got burned up.

I would like to route the proper way, so is it just as simple as drilling a hole in the trans cover, taking special care not to hit the transmission of course. What diameter should the final size be?

Is there any reason that this car would not have had the hole punched? The VIN stamped on the engine bay (top drivers side) and the plate both decode to a 289 V8 with a 4 speed transmission.

Trans Code = 5
1965-1970 Mustang Codes

[22GT]

That is impossible. The transmission was not encoded in the VIN.

[ricer333]

Originally Posted by 22GT

That is impossible. The transmission was not encoded in the VIN.

so taking a closer look, the VIN that is stamped ends in 65 and so does the Vehicle Warrenty Number. Maybe it's a coincidence that the other numbers above the Vehicle Warrenty Number, the ones that spell out the body style and color and transmission, just so happens to end in 65 as well.

6 - Axel - 2.80:1
5 - Transmission = Manual 4 Speed

Just saw that they both ended the same and made an assumption. Sorry, still learning some of these things. So, still wondering about the transmission cover hole that is seemingly missing

[22GT]

A photo of the Warranty Plate might be instructive. Replacements are readily available, and are made to say whatever the customer asks for. Without the cable hole, I'd suggest the car had a 3-speed, or perhaps even a C4. The VIN would read something like "5R02A123465". The 123465 is the Consecutive Unit Number, not a code.

[ricer333]

Thanks for being so involved in this thread and forum. I've snapped off a pic of the plate that is on the driver's side door jam. I guess I didn't know that these plates could be made to say whatever the previous owner(s) wanted. Guess I'm not surprised though. Makes sense why the Florida DMV does not count these plates as official VIN's when registering.

So, if we go off of the facts currently, there does not appear to be the hole. I'd like to drill one in place and snake the speedo cable over the bell housing and then secure it to the passenger side floor boards with a cable tie down. I've checked the passenger side and I do not see currently any sign of the hole or holder there. Is it as simple as buying the cable tie down and attaching it in this general direction?

original source for picture 2 link: http://www.early-mustang.com/charles...3_05%20030.jpg