Everything in the door is new, I did not install it. I locked the door, then I unlocked it the knob raises and I push the button but it acts like its still locked. So I get in the car and pull up on the lock knob, its all the way up, try to open the door.... And still no go. I can feel that the door lever is still connected. Is there an adjustment on the rod that goes to the lock knob that would prevent it from fully extending to the unlocked position? Maybe some other adjustment? I need that door to work! How else can I get hot chicks into my car!?
I need that door to work! How else can I get hot chicks into my car!?
None of three cars I had in high school (54 Ford, 57 Chevy Belair HT, 63 Impala) had bucket seats. My dates always entered at the driver door and slid over to sit in the middle next to me.
Well if you cant get it work...the only true way to to take off the door panel, roll up the window, and visibly check the lock mechanism....Its a pretty straightforward mechanism where the rod attaches to the door latch...
tons of info on doing this...here's a common diagram
Location: In the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia....
Posts: 2,918
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenster
None of three cars I had in high school (54 Ford, 57 Chevy Belair HT, 63 Impala) had bucket seats. My dates always entered at the driver door and slid over to sit in the middle next to me.
Bucket seats can be a curse.
There you go---we got a winner here. Seriously though hold up on the lock knob as far as you can pull it then at the same time try opening it from the inside and outside. If that doesn't work pull the door panel like suggested. Get a flashlight if you think you need it and look inside there at the latch and you'll figure out how to get it to open and release. Then you can work on it. /adjust the rods etc. Or replace latch. Before you close the door work the latch manually to make sure its working correctly.
__________________ My '70 Pro-Street. Mildly built 302, Mallory 6AL ignition, Hurst w/4-speed, 74 Maverick rear w/3.40 gears. Tied frame with 6 point cage. Trunk mounted battery, Dynamax Exhaust. Building a 351W 40 over now...
Pull your door panel and check the latch. Even if it's locked you still should be able to lift the inside handle which should unlock and open the door. Sounds like something in the latch broke.
The guy I bought it from. I am finding a lot of things that he just didn't take the time to do right and test.
You ain't the only one man, sorry to hear you got kinda caught to.
I have been consistently amazed with the amount of chickent stuff I find done with my 66.
What blows my mind is that he did some stuff really right and didn't spare expense. For instance the headliner is great quality and installed nearly perfectly, but he used totally wrong screws on the warped dashpad to install it as well as the bezel.
I'm pretty sure it was a case of multiple owners. It's cool, I've been making sure to do it all RIGHT and not halfbutt the whole way.
__________________ "Natalie", '66 Coupe
Freshly Rebuilt 4-Speed w/ Hurst Performance Plus
289, Holley Carb, Edelbrock Intake and Water Pump, Tefba, Summit Direct Fit Rad
3.55 with Posi, Zoom Clutch
Next On the Agenda:
Interior - Replace floorpans (in progress), new carpet, tilt column, new steering wheel
Exterior/Body/Performance: Windshield (in progress), New cowl (in progress), weatherstripping, power steering
I know you said everything in the door is new. Maybe not the latch mechanism. In any case try rapidly moving the lock button up and down. The lock part in the latch sometimes sticks as the lube dries up or needs adjusting. I've had this happen and the quick motion on the locking button unlocked it.
Also the travel of the locking lever may be slightly different with the key. Don't use force and break the key!
Slim
__________________
My '64 1/2 vert. Ordered May '64. D code 4 speed, handling package, caspian blue, accent group, Ford blue manual top.
'68 vert. driver. Owned since '77. C code AT, AC, PS, P disc B, PT lime gold, standard black interior and top. NOS RF fender and left quarter.New top and folding glass.
Thanks guys, I did try to open it from the inside. I'm working on it now, got the panel off its a new latch. Props for the diagram! I will post final outcome.
Okay got it one of the lock linkages was not letting the lock mechanism come up far enough and the latch lever would slip. Adjusted it and all is well again! Hot chicks have access once again! Thanks everyone for the help! =D
Location: In the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia....
Posts: 2,918
Good job --I see what you'll be doing later--LOL,
__________________ My '70 Pro-Street. Mildly built 302, Mallory 6AL ignition, Hurst w/4-speed, 74 Maverick rear w/3.40 gears. Tied frame with 6 point cage. Trunk mounted battery, Dynamax Exhaust. Building a 351W 40 over now...
Some time door would not unlock with original key or lock hole cannot turn. This will minimize the door performance. it one of the lock linkages was not letting the lock mechanism come up far enough and the latch lever would slip.
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passenger door wont unlock!
Who installed the door?
Seriously though hold up on the lock knob as far as you can pull it then at the same time try opening it from the inside and outside. If that doesn't work pull the door panel like suggested. Get a flashlight if you think you need it and look inside there at the latch and you'll figure out how to get it to open and release. Then you can work on it. /adjust the rods etc. Or replace latch. Before you close the door work the latch manually to make sure its working correctly.
My '70 Pro-Street. Mildly built 302, Mallory 6AL ignition, Hurst w/4-speed, 74 Maverick rear w/3.40 gears. Tied frame with 6 point cage. Trunk mounted battery, Dynamax Exhaust. Building a 351W 40 over now...
t stuff I find done with my 66.
