Am I correct in assuming this is a pretty slow gear off the line, like almost to the point where you feel like you have to ride the clutch from a stop or it will feel almost like it wants to stall?
__________________ "Natalie", '66 Coupe
Freshly Rebuilt 4-Speed w/ Hurst Performance Plus
289, Holley Carb, Edelbrock Intake and Water Pump, Tefba, Summit Direct Fit Rad
3.55 with Posi, Zoom Clutch
Next On the Agenda:
Interior - Replace floorpans (in progress), new carpet, tilt column, new steering wheel
Exterior/Body/Performance: Windshield (in progress), New cowl (in progress), weatherstripping, power steering
V8 cars usually had gears somewhere between 2.79 to 3.25 from the factory. Special performance cars (i.e. Boss 302, Boss 429, Shelby's, Cobrajet 428 powered cars) often had lower gear ratios like 3.50, 3.91, 4.11, etc. 2.79 gears are what are commonly known as "highway gears". This is because they were used to keep the engine rpm's low during highway speeds. This gears are not optimal for off the line performance and hence the reason you have to "ride the clutch" from a stop. With a modern overdrive transmission (AOD, T-5, TKO, etc) in your vintage Mustang, you can run lower gears (3.50, 3.91, 4.11, etc) out on the highway and still turn fairly low engine rpm's. I have 4.11 gears in my car with a TKO 5 speed transmission and my engine rpm is around 2,100 at 60mph.
__________________
1970 Fastback (to be finished outside as a Boss 302 clone)
393 Windsor AFR 205 heads with 11.5:1 compression
Tremec TKO 5 Speed
Link to my Hub Garage and blog about my car http://www.hubgarage.com/mygarage/maxum96
Thanks that was a great answer. That explains it then. My mustang has what I'm pretty sure is still 2.79 in it and you really do feel like you have to ride the clutch, it's mighty slow on the takeoff. 2nd and 3rd do okay though.
__________________ "Natalie", '66 Coupe
Freshly Rebuilt 4-Speed w/ Hurst Performance Plus
289, Holley Carb, Edelbrock Intake and Water Pump, Tefba, Summit Direct Fit Rad
3.55 with Posi, Zoom Clutch
Next On the Agenda:
Interior - Replace floorpans (in progress), new carpet, tilt column, new steering wheel
Exterior/Body/Performance: Windshield (in progress), New cowl (in progress), weatherstripping, power steering
Definitely they start off slow as hell but when you're moving already, it'll accelerate. I swapped mine out to 3.40 and I get it great for take off and while I'm driving.
__________________
Dave
2004 Nissan Titan Crew Cab
1966 Ford Mustang Original 289
Edelbrock RPM Performer Heads; bored .30 over
Weiand Stealth Intake, Holley 600 CFM Carb.
Comp Cam 268H 9.5:1 Speed Pro Pistons
Patriot Tri-Y Headers w/ 2.5" H Pipe, Flowmaster 40S
620 1" drop in front, CSRP Front Disk Brakes.
Ford 8 3.40 trac-loc rear end
Location: In the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia....
Posts: 2,918
3.40's in mine with a four speed----Not to change the subject but did you fix your engine problem or figure out what it was blowing out your exhaust??
__________________ My '70 Pro-Street. Mildly built 302, Mallory 6AL ignition, Hurst w/4-speed, 74 Maverick rear w/3.40 gears. Tied frame with 6 point cage. Trunk mounted battery, Dynamax Exhaust. Building a 351W 40 over now...
3.40's in mine with a four speed----Not to change the subject but did you fix your engine problem or figure out what it was blowing out your exhaust??
My buddy comes by to look at it tomorrow.
I started it up yesterday when it was about 60 degrees and there was almost no smoke...the TINIEST little bit that you could only see if you got your viewing angle JUST right, but not nearly what it was before.
I'm honest to goodness wondering if it wasn't just a s-ton of condensation built up. I've just never seen condensation that heavy.
__________________ "Natalie", '66 Coupe
Freshly Rebuilt 4-Speed w/ Hurst Performance Plus
289, Holley Carb, Edelbrock Intake and Water Pump, Tefba, Summit Direct Fit Rad
3.55 with Posi, Zoom Clutch
Next On the Agenda:
Interior - Replace floorpans (in progress), new carpet, tilt column, new steering wheel
Exterior/Body/Performance: Windshield (in progress), New cowl (in progress), weatherstripping, power steering
Am I correct in assuming this is a pretty slow gear off the line, like almost to the point where you feel like you have to ride the clutch from a stop or it will feel almost like it wants to stall?
I've owned several '66 V8 Mustangs, and looked at a lot more.
Every C code I ever saw came with 2.80 gears.
Every A code I ever saw came with 3.00.
K codes varied from 3.50 on up.
I'll also throw this in: every T code Mustang I've seen had a 2.83 rear axle if it was an automatic car, and a 3.20 if it was a stick.
FYI, the 2.79 ratio didn't appear until '67 or '68 (I forget which).
You would probably enjoy your car a lot more with 3.25 or 3.50 gears.
Regards,
MrFreeze
__________________
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans."
'66 GT Fastback show car, nightmist blue, warmed up original 289 & T-5Z, 3.80 trac-loc, AC, PS, pony interior, Retrosound, rally pac
'66 Coupe driver, Bullitt green, 302HO w/ 351W heads, roller rockers, Holley 600, T-5Z, 3.55 trac-loc, collapsible column, tank armor, disk brakes, shoulder belts
'11 BMW 335i X-drive, 6 speed manual, all the bells and whistles
I'm running 2.79's with a wide ratio Toploader 4 speed. Mine starts of ok. One important think you have to remember is the over all final drive ratio. Close ratio 4 speeds have a taller 1st gear then a wide ratio 4 speed. As such, it'll need lower rear gears to take off from a stop easier. A wide ratio 4 speed with 3.25 rear gear is going to have a lower over all final drive in 1st then a close ratio 4 speed with 3.89 gears. You'd really ride the clutch with a close ratio 4 speed with 3.25 gears! Big block cars with lots of torque can do this though. It's really important to match your rear axle ratio to your transmission ratios to have an effective combo.
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