Did a search but a lot of scattered info... I got the thrown together hydraulic clutch setup somewhat figured out that I bought my 66 with.
However I had to kind of rig it... lets just say its not the best set up for the car. So I'm looking for the best clutch pedal setup for a 66 mustang?
It's a 66 with t5 tranny. Right now it has a hydraulic kit but would entertain the idea of a cable, but I have read it is difficult to do long tubes with a cable clutch.
So what is the best professionally designed clutch set up for a 66 mustang?
In my 66 coupe, I originally went with a homemade setup similar to Dazecars, external cylinder on a mount. I had to make my own mount as I'm using a 97 V6 T5 and the bell and trans aren't quite the same as the earlier models the "standard" setup fits. I swapped out to an internal hyd. throw out bearing when I switched headers and they got a little to close to the slave for comfort. Honestly can't say how it works yet as I'm involved in too many other changes on the car to try it yet. I did however put the external slave setup on my 65 Falcon when I swapped in a 302, using another 97 V6 T5, and Doug's long tube headers. 800+ miles and loving every second of it. Just need to re-bleed to get all the air out, pedal feels a little soft but haven't had any issues at all.
You have three ways to go with this one ...
Original Z-bar, cable system or the hydraulic. If you use the cable you will also need a T5 clutch fork. The hydraulic clutch setup i have researched also use the T5 clutch fork. The cable clutch will need space to route the cable and have enough space between cable and exhaust so it doesnt burn.
What is wrong with your current hydraulic setup? Can you improve it or fix it? I want to do the hydraulic clutch on my car as soon as spring rolls around.
On the current set up I had to set all the linkage rods to their max length and pre-load the throw-out bearing quite a bit to get it to disengage.... It's going to cause a lot of premature clutch wear.
I wouldn't mind switching to a cable clutch or sticking with the hydraulic. I haven't looked into a z bar set up. Does anyone have any recommendations?
I really like the MustangSteve cable setup with the quadrant and adjustable block on the firewall. My only complaint is that the Foxbody T5 cable is too short to work well near headers. However, there is a fix. The cable for the SN95 mustangs are several inches longer and I was able to route mine all the way around the front and under the headers. It's identical to the Fox cable just longer.
It seems allot of guys are using the Wilwood 260-3374 3/4 inch master to actuate a CNC or Speedway 7/8 inch slave. Problem is the 1.1 inch stroke of the master doesn't displace enough fluid to get full travel out of the larger bore slave. I used the 260-6089 master. It is a 3/4 inch bore but a longer 1.4 inch stroke. It uses a remote reservoir which isn't included so you either have to pop for the $70 wilwood kit or buy the special inlet fitting from a place like Pegasus Racing (also expensive) and source a reservoir (I used one for a superduty)
I made a bracket similar to the Daze cars bracket but angled it toward the inner hole on the clutch fork. I also made an offset pushrod for the master similar to Daze and used the original linkage hole.
The clutch has a good feel. Not hard to push but not soft either with my King Cobra clutch. No preload is necessary and I still have plenty of travel left after the clutch disengages.
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Mild 302
T-5
Global West arms
TCP Strut Rods
Wilwood Ft. Discs
235/45/17 ft
275/40/17 rear
Always a work in progress
restodude, I've used both m/c's in my cars. The 260-3374 in my Falcon (daily driver right now) works fine. The 260-6089 in my 66 coupe. Unfortunately she's still not on the road so I can't comment on it yet. I've had no problems what so ever in the Falcon to date (sans the fact I'm definitely going to get a ticket if I can't get the V8 "happies" out of my system soon). I did modify my clutch fork (97 V6 T5) by shortening it and drilling a new hole for the slave rod in order to clear my long tube headers. This probably made for a shorter/quicker throw at the fork.
On the current set up I had to set all the linkage rods to their max length and pre-load the throw-out bearing quite a bit to get it to disengage.... It's going to cause a lot of premature clutch wear.
I wouldn't mind switching to a cable clutch or sticking with the hydraulic. I haven't looked into a z bar set up. Does anyone have any recommendations?
I've driven a bunch of these with the stone-stock clutch linkage, and it works great.
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Amateur restorer. (Well, once in a while I have been paid for it)
Did a search but a lot of scattered info... I got the thrown together hydraulic clutch setup somewhat figured out that I bought my 66 with.
However I had to kind of rig it... lets just say its not the best set up for the car. So I'm looking for the best clutch pedal setup for a 66 mustang?
It's a 66 with t5 tranny. Right now it has a hydraulic kit but would entertain the idea of a cable, but I have read it is difficult to do long tubes with a cable clutch.
So what is the best professionally designed clutch set up for a 66 mustang?
Thanks
Alex
Some Zbars will interfere with headers, some will interfere with brake booster. I went through all of this and finally installed the hydraulic clutch kit from modern driveline. I have a 65 fastback with a 347 stroker, mac long tubes, and a 5 speed. No problems...
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66 Mustang best clutch set up for t-5
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