My name is Bobby, I'm a senior at FSU and about to graduate in the spring as a Finance major. I've been messing with cars since I was about 15 and mainly dealt with Toyota makes. My first car was a honda prelude which I got rid of almost immediately and picked up a 95 Lexus sc300 and swapped in a 1jz-gte (2.5l twin turbo). Hand that for a while and wrecked it my junior year of HS. I wen through a couple more crap SC's until I picked up my current one which I slapped a t61 turbo on and spent some time with that. Now its at home in the garage and I'm driving a 93 LandCruiser that I've set up for mild mudding/off road.
Recently my mom picked up a new Civic and told me that I could have her old one, a 98 lx sedan. Now the plan has been to keep it to drive to work and such till I can get something a little nicer.
Now to my questions for you guys. We have a 67 convertible 289 thats been sitting in storage for a long time and I got the idea that the civic might be put to better use if I sell it and put the money towards getting the stang back on the road for my mom.
I'm thinking I should be able to get $3k out of the civic and was wondering how far you think that will take me with the mustang. My plans are to swap the original manual drum brakes out for power discs all around... I'm thinking about $700 for this?? Its going to need a new convertible top, the canvas is shot and the framing needs work as I remember. I'm not sure what I'm looking at as an expense here. I'd like to update the suspension a little, possibly new spring/struts up front, lower by about an inch and new leaf springs. And the original 289 probably needs a rebuild (it ran about 6 years ago). I'd like to see about 250 rwhp out of it and I'm leaning towards some aftermarket heads, manifold, carb, and headers.
So how much of this do you think I can accomplish with the estimated $3k from the sale of the civic? The interior on the stang is perfect so that wont need to be addressed and is there anything else you guys think I need to worry about to get it up and running?
Well power disc brakes added to the front will cost about $1000. That leaves about $2000 left - I think a top is about $550 or so installed and how much work does that top frame need? What about tires- been sitting on the old ones for six years and how old were they when the car was parked? How about the fuel tank- most need re-placing after sitting around. What condition are the brake and fuel lines? Soooo, first off there's nothing wrong with drum brakes properly set up- a booster will cost about $400. Still have to replace the top and at least check lines, tank, electrical systems, tires, suspension and such to be sure the car is safe. $3000 can go a ways if you do alot of work yourself but you still might be a long way from complete. My car was purchased in really nice driver shape and I've still spent about $5000 on it (and that includes no bodywork or much interior stuff). John
"If you need a new machine and you don't buy it, you pay for it without getting it." -Henry Ford
I tend to agree. Leave the brakes as drum for now. Replace worn brake and suspension parts. My 1966 coupe sat for 24 years until 5 months ago and I had to replace everything mentioned above: all brake hydraulics from MC to lines to wheel cylinders, fuel line and fuel tank.
You can probably get close to 250 at the wheels with a decent 289 a good carburetor and free flowing exhaust. If it were me, I would look at mods to the suspension, brakes and heads later after the top is fixed and the safety issues are addressed.
If its been sitting for awhile and hasnt ran I'd recommend to ensure that your engine is good to go: replace the fuel filter (get rid of all old fuel), change out the oil, take the spark plugs out, squirt engine cleaner lubricant (like liquid wrench) down the spark plug holes letting that sit for a day, then crank the car w/o the plugs..this will help unload any extra compression that can occur if the engine hasnt ran for a while. If your battery is tired - get a new one. Check your points - ensure everything is clean and ready to go before trying it for real...also...change out the radiator fluid, tranny fluid, breakin her in easy. Change fluids after a short period of run time.
I'd suggest to make the vert safe - replacing the tired and due for replacing vs just going for mods first...
Sounds like you need to sell three or four Civics to get that car road ready. You have already gotten great advice, but to help you prioritize, go for safety first, reliable operation next, improvements third and total restoration last.
Nah...general maintenance (brakes, fluids, tune up supplies, etc..) and prep wouldn't be too much .. obviously if the front/rear suspension needs replacing then that takes up almost 1000 - (if he does all his own work)... but that still leaves a respectable amount left. Matters what he wants to eventually do...
Bobby-the-Gator! You have all the right ideas in place to get this 67 back on the road. You have to crawl before ya walk, and walk before ya run with this project. Try turning over the engine and make sure it isn't seized. Drain or siphon out any fuel in the tank and replace with some 93 octane. Pull the rotor out of the distributor, crack the fuel inlet line and crank the engine (if it will turn over with the starter/battery combo) and see if you have fuel getting to the carb. If so, put the rotor back in, secure the fuel line and see if she will start. If it clatters a bit, don't be surprised but she may level out. Add a pint of Seafoam to the oil and fuel and see if it improves. If the engine starts to "pull-down" ---seize up---shut er down! You will either have something worth fixing-up or lots more to fix than brakes, a top and, improved suspension!
I am in the final stages of completing a complete front suspension rebuild with our 65 convertible and I am 64 years old. I did the Shelby-Arning Drop Mod and I can't wait to get her back on the road (after a new alignment). Every bone and muscle in this ol body is hurtin' tonight but it's a "good kinda hurt" ya know? You'll do fine!
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