If some of you haven't seen these, you may want to consider getting a kit. I love mine. Never thought about until now, but I'll turn them on when the judge looks at my car. Probaly extra points.
Cool upgrade.
But I think me and the installer have a different definition of "tightened down".
That thing was still looked like it was "flopping around".
Cool upgrade.
But I think me and the installer have a different definition of "tightened down".
That thing was still looked like it was "flopping around".
I noticed the same thing, but none of mine have moved, however, it might be a good idea to use a bit of red loctite.
Been eyeing those. I'll be getting some eventually.
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1995 GT convertible - Laser Red
1995 GT convertible - Black (Son's ride)
1966 GT Fastback under restoration- Code T Red
with White LeMans stripes.
Did you have to do any special wiring for the brake lights? Do half the lamps illuminate when headlights are on? Then when braking and turn ALL lamps come on?
Did you have to do any special wiring for the brake lights? Do half the lamps illuminate when headlights are on? Then when braking and turn ALL lamps come on?
I did. It doesn't show anything about the module. I looked at their website too, and one instruction manual has it attaching some brake wires with mods.
Cool upgrade.
But I think me and the installer have a different definition of "tightened down".
That thing was still looked like it was "flopping around".
+1....Looked like it would be sitting on an angle after you hit the first bump.
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68 J code sprint, 408W with vic jr top end, Pro Systems 950HP Holley carb,Camshaft Innovations custom solid roller ,Hooker 6208s,Toploader,4:11 Detroit locker...
11.82@ 120.85mph
You need the LED flasher unit as the LED lights don't offer as much load resistance as the filament bulbs and your old click will probably 'think' there is a dead bulb in the circuit and cycle much faster. You can add a dummy load inline with the LED unit(s) to compensate or get the proper flasher unit. Swapping out the clicker is easier than wiring in the dummy load(s)...and probably the more reliable solution.
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